Ken's Engine Project...

[Rowdy1]

OK

I know what you mean now. They are better than heli coil, I agree. Never banged on a coated header, I'm sure someone has. Good Luck.

 

[Ken]

AFS Wheels?

Y'all are aware that I'll be needing more meat at the rear when the new engine gets installed. Chris has already demonstrated that fact.

My question for y'all tonight is - has anyone used AFS wheels yet? This is their:

Quality & Safety Statement
Our rims are made by a major wheel company that manufactures OEM rims for another major automotive line, so the quality is to OEM standards. They are made out of the same materials (aluminum) and the machining is matched on a CNC machine so that the fit and backspacing is identical. Our state of the art manufacturing process includes counter pressure injection molds. The rims all go through heat treatment for strength. The quality control program includes such steps as x-rays and pressurized immersion. All of our rims have passed or exceeded required safety testing and are DOT approved. These rims are made exclusively for AFS, Inc.

Our finish work is considered by the wheel industry to be a higher quality finish. We do a hand polish on the face of the rim before it goes to the paint or chrome shop. Our paint is a powder-coated paint, which is actually baked onto the rim. Most OEM rims uses a wet, spray-on paint that is not as durable. Our rim is then topped off with a clear coat that further protects the rim and will help eliminate fading. These added steps greatly increase the cost of producing the wheel, but we refused to sacrifice our quality!

Our chrome shop uses some of the latest, most up to date technology available. It is a three-stage process, which uses copper, nickel and then chrome. Each step is computer controlled and monitored to ensure the best possible chrome job. The chrome is warrantied for one full year from original purchase date, provided that it is properly maintained.

The good thing is that they are located not thirty miles from me and the package (2 x 9.5 x 17 and 2 x 11 x 17) would only set me back another grand or so.

So whatcha know about AFS?

_ken

BTW, I still need some feedback as to where I might find the short-style header spark plugs. Accel makes 'em, I just can't find 'em. ad

 

[Tom Bryant]

Ken,
Just why doesn't Offenhauser have a web site anyway? The only way I even found their address was to go to sema.org and look them up in the members roster.

BTW, I got outbid on Ebay on a nice pair of Offenhauser breathers with some M/T big block valve covers attached. Getting too close to new price for me.

Tom

 

[Ken]

Just why doesn't Offenhauser have a web site anyway?

:eyerole We've gone around 'bout this before. I don't understand it either about some companies not having web access. ad

 

[Ken]

It's never a simple bolt-on...

...when you're building an engine by mixing-and-matching. :eyerole

I mentioned close clearances between number seven spark plug and the tube. Well, see for yourself:

It shouldn't be that much of a problem. As a matter-of-fact, it is probably already done; he was going to do it this afternoon.

For more pictures, check out: Project: Engine...

_ken

BTW, he let on today that he is estimating horsepower on the conservative side; he's sure I'm gonna have more than the 530 he initially told me. :J

 

[69MyWay]

Hey Ken,

Call Summit or Jeggs. They can cross reference a set of special spark plugs that are shorter for your application. It is a common problem with headers, so one or two manufacturers are well ahead of the game.

I like the pics on the web site. That thing is coming along very nice!

 

[Ken]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

...special spark plugs that are shorter for your application. It is a common problem with headers, so one or two manufacturers are well ahead of the game.

I know Accel makes a shorter plug for header clearance problems Chris, but I couldn't find 'em. As a matter-of-fact, I had a question in the Callaway forum where I posted those plug charts, but nobody responded.

I found out later that the plugs are shorter as stated, but they are also shorter on the threaded portion as well - it's not projected-tip plug. Someone told me it was almost like a lawnmower engine plug it was so short.

I couldn't find a referrence for short "header" style plugs anywhere else, so the header tube is already dimpled - done deed!

The time is getting close when the old comes out and the new goes in. :J

_ken

BTW, I didn't realize that the aluminum L98 head has slightly angled spark plug holes. I noticed that today on mine while looking at something else. No matter, it's still a PITA to change 'em.

Another BTW, you should have seen the Shelby GT-500 Mustang that was there today. Man, I love musclears!

 

[Ken]

Specifications (...and links)

Current Engine Project:

The Engine: 420 c.i. Small Block (actually 416.5 c.i.)
The Builder: Will Brogdon of Hawthorne, CA
The Installer: Richie Okamoto of Carson, CA

Some project pictures can be followed on my Project: Engine page.

• 
  Starting with a "seasoned" 400 c.i. truck block
• Bore: 4.155
• Stroke: 3.840
• Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
  
• Federal-Mogul Race bearings
• Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft
• Eagle pin fit 4340 H-beam 3-D forged steel connecting rods - 6.00"
• SRP forged aluminum inverted-dome pistons w/file-fit rings:
  ~ A compression ratio of approximately 10.2:1 should be achieved when used in conjunction with the Edelbrock heads.
• Edelbrock E-Tec 200 23° aluminum cylinder heads, 2.02"/1.60" dia valves
• Crane aluminum roller rocker arms w/ posi-locks - 1.6 ratio
• Isky custom grind hydraulic roller camshaft:
  ~ RPM-Range: 2800-6500
  ~ Valve Lift: .595
  ~ Advertised Duration: 270°
  ~ Duration @ .050": 243°
  ~ Lobe Centers: 110°
• Isky hydraulic-roller valve lifters
• Dynagear true roller timing chain set
• Competition Cams billet aluminum two-piece timing cover
• Pro Race steel vibration damper
• March pulleys
• TPIS "MiniRam" intake manifold w/ adjustable fuel pressure regulator
• TPIS 58mm Throttle Body w/ modified Mass Air Flow sensor
• Accel fuel injectors (36 lb.)
• D.U.I. (Davis Unified Ignition) distributor, ignition and rev limiter
• MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor spark plug wires w/ Champion spark plugs
• TPIS ceramic-coated headers - 1 3/4" primaries, 3" collectors
• Flowcooler aluminum water pump
• Canton Road Race 7 qt oil pan w/ scraper, trapdoors & baffles
• Earl's custom oil cooler
• Earl's "Pro Light" hoses and fittings
• ARP fasteners
• Energy Suspension motor mounts
• CSI high-torque gear reduction mini-starter
• Centerforce Dual Friction clutch assembly
• Tilton hydraulic release bearing
• Lakewood safety bellhousing
• Richmond Gear ROD 6-speed transmission w/ Long shifter
• Be Cool aluminum radiator

Two weeks, it should be in.

_ken

 

[69MyWay]

That list is awesome. You sure have covered all the bases.

That momma is going to scream!

 

[DDLS3]

Hang on tight Ken!!! I think that baby may just need a countdown 4,3,2,1.......

Dale

 

[Ken]

Countdown... 3... 2...

I'm getting impatient every time I see the engine and the closer we get to completion.



This is what's left of the parts that remain to be installed.


One step closer to heaven every day. :J

_ken

 

[Ken]

Friends...

This is my neighbor Jim. He has been in the building longer than me and I've been here seventeen years now. I don't know what I'd do if Jim wasn't sharing the garage with me; he lets me use every inch of his side as long as he can get his car in at night. Wonderful guy.


_ken

 

[Colorado]

BEUTIFUL, Ken. It's a work of art

Are you really going to hook it up to gasoline and start it? How about getting a VCR record of the event, so we can SEE and HEAR the horses wake up?

Wow

Colorado

 

[69MyWay]

Schweeeeeeeet.

Ken, one quick note. There is a 99.9% chance the driver rear valve cover will need a little "custom" engineering to get in. When I put tall covers on my 85 vette, a towel and rubber mallet were needed to convince the very rear part of the cover to clear in the back.

Just giving you a quick heads up, maybe save you some time later. I have the same problem with the 69 and tall covers. They won't clear my brake booster. Looking at aluminum covers, so I will need a little custom welding.

Make sure and take advantage of the engine out of the way to give the power steering rack and cooler a DEEP flush (if you have cooler).



At the rate we are both going, we could cause a natural disaster when I fire the 69 up on the east coast, you fire the 87 on the the left coast. Man, those sound waves are going to meet somewhere around Texas. I hope they have Earthquake insurance!!!!!

 

[Ken]

Everything Chris, and I mean everything on the engine is going to be a new part; no used parts here.

So, in answer to your caveat about the power steering system, I have a new power steering pump for the engine and the rack was replaced just a year or two ago, so that should be in good shape; I'll be sure to flush it and the reservoir thoroughly before use though.

I was thinking about the clearance issue again today too. I got the tall covers because I didn't want to take the chance of the short ones not fitting, but yesterday we took a cover from an LT-1 and the cover cleared with no problem (Several of the rockers were in the lifted position so you could tell if they were going to hit.). I like the look of the taller covers though, it gives it a beefier look, but they hide the MiniRam almost. :L

Gettin' ready to fire 'em up ain't we!! :J

 

[69MyWay]

One more thing for you that I learned the hardway.

My passenger valve cover was actually sitting on the edge of the miniram in the rear section. I never noticed this, and it did not seem to be an issue. However, I was getting oil on my garage floor after the car ran me to and from work.

I really struggled with this. At one point I thought the rear main seal had blown seeing how the engine sat up for a couple of years waiting for a new home.

Anyway, after about three go arounds searching for the leak and washing the motor down, I found where it was splashing up in the cover, getting past the gap between the head and where the valve cover was cocked on the edge of the miniram, running down between the intake and head, and down to the ground. It was easy to fix by basically taking a flat nose punch, and tapping the cover into place and making sure the edge tucked down from the edge of the miniram. Another way to do it would have been to grind the edge of the valve cover where it was touching the intake.

 

[Ken]

:cool Thanks for the heads up.

 

[89ZZ4]

Ken - thats a fantastic looking motor! I'm waiting for your feedbacks on how it runs when installed so I can satisfy some of my voyeristic vette sickness. But what a sickness!

Phil (aka 89ZZ4)

 

[jerrys96lt4]

Ken , The project looks great to bad we cant download the sound that beast is going to make

 

[maxrevs85]

Ken mon, :gapI got an e-mail from a guy that installed the Richmond ROD 6sp in an 84 . He said you wouldnt believe what bad ass tranny it is . He said it is truly unbelievable how well it works. It brings the sports car feel to a new level. And i was over to Holt Auto sales last week and he said they had a Lingenfelter with the same trans a while back. He said it dang near shifts itself. Soooo I'm sure you will be extremely happy with yours. I GOTTA HAVE ONE!!!!!