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Larry....got any install photos of the Barry Grant 6 shooter yet?

So here is the latest update

MAN OH MAN am I happy I did not attempt to install this the night before carlile.

Today I had time to sit and play with the engine before a party we had at the house today

I hope no one get me wrong this is a simple to adjust set up

Progressive linkage easy to adjust

But I made some mistakes

1-was running the car out of gas and assuming it was a mechanical problem
2-was trying to tune it with a disconnected vacuum line (it fell off the T for my vacuum gage


One of the problems I had was a stumble off idle Easy to figure out right have the idle misadjusted

Well a couple of hour going in and out with the idle circuits and still have a stumble,

My brother inn laws show up for the party early as usually.

I set up the vacuum gauge, timing light and tachometer and hand them the tools , the first thing my brother inn law notices is the accelerator pump on the front and middle carb are rattling in the breeze BINGO 2 seconds of looking at the carbs and he caught it. I was so busy playing with the adjustment screws and watching my vacum gauge I completely over looked the accelerator pumps.
A qick adjustment of the axcellarator pumps and the car now is real crisp off idel
Always pays to have a extra set of eyes to double check things

Well its a real cool set up Pulls real hard all the way up to the chip. It kinda spools right up to the chip like a two stroke

But I am back to square one with the trans.I have set it as the directions say but the car is short shifting again on a gradual throttle. Shift around 1800 rpm.

On a full throttle blast on a roll she is sluggish

but on a full throttle blast from a stand still it shifts Thu all the gears right up into over drive with the tires spinning the entire time as long as I can keep it kinda pointing in the correct direction.

I think it all has to do with it short shifting and the motor not making enough power pull hard because the motor is being lugged.

If I shift it as a manual trans (starting in first ,then shifting to second at 5000 rpm etc etc) the car runs like an ape. but if I just drive it normal with the short shifting its a turd

I will speak to bow tie overdrives on Tuesday and see if they can help me figure this out or I am going to switch to a six speed
 
Larry I have seen conflicting methods of adjusting the TV cable on the web, the way that works best for me is to release the cable, push it back all the way with the throttle closed, then pull the throttle all the way open and close the release button to adjust the TV cable.
The shift at 1800 might be correct for part throttle shifts, these trans were designed to increase gas milage and unless it has been internally modified to cange the shift point then 1800 sounds about correct.

What are you using for your TC lock-up?
 
I am using the painless wiring TC lock up.

this bow tie TV cable came with a pressure gauge ,they give you a chart to take all the pressure reading I am going to talk to the guys from bowtie on tuesday to report my pressures to them.

I would not care where it shifts as long as when I punch it takes off.


I am going to monkey around with it again today
 
first off are we talking 700R4 or the new electronic trans 4l60E/4l80E?

I am not familiar with the bowtie setup I have always used a stock or close to stock system. Are they telling you to set the TV cable with a pressure gage?
on the 700R4 the TV cable is simular if not the same as the kickdown cable on the th350
 
Yes it is, I always thought the 4L60E was a different trans then the 700R4
I'll have to read the whole thing tomorrow, thanks for the link.
 
My new SBC Custom Tripower W/ Custom Nitrous

Hi! This is my first post. This was custom built by me. The fuel lines, linkage, and Nitrous plates were all modified or hand built. The center carb is a side inlet Marine carb with electric choke and a 1970 Chevy base plate with a custom extended throttle shaft. The front and rear carbs are 1970 Chevy 350 carbs with 1966 tripower side inlet tops. The baseplates are custom CNC'ed aluminum reproduction Pontiac tripower base plates with lapped in brass trottle plates. The carbs are 381 CFM large base Rochesters on an Offenhauser split single plane intake with a 150 HP plate nitrous system. It is going on a 500 HP 383. What do you think??
 
Welcome 63mako

I can see that you are going to fit right in here. Awesome setup! Your pressure reg and guage look just like mine. What fuel pump and pressure are you using?

Tom
 
I can see that you are going to fit right in here. Awesome setup! Your pressure reg and guage look just like mine. What fuel pump and pressure are you using?

Tom
I have an Edelbrock 120 GPM Mechanical fuel pump. The carbs will run at 4.5 to 7 PSI. I jetted the NOS to run at 6 PSI and can fine tune the A/F ratio on the NOS with the regulator without rejetting.
 
That baby should run. I'm using a small Holley that Bob Kunz just finished for me on an Offy 360 manifold. No nitrous. It's for my stepside parts chaser. I am using the Edelbrock mechanical pump. Several people told me that they took off Holley pumps and replaced them with Edelbrocks and were happier with the system.
 
Sorry to hijack the thread. Figured anybody looking at this thread might like this post!
 
Mako

very impressive! it's cool to see the fabrication abilities so many people have.
just curious and always trying to learn so if you don't mind a question.....??
on the 3rd picture you posted
this one:
attachment.php


i see the line going into the base of the carb in front and I assume that one of the NOS lines? The line seems to be laying directly on top of the t-stat housing. The heat from the housing won't affect the NOS or the performance of it?
Again, not critisizing it, just curious and trying to learn. :beer:
 
Mako

very impressive! it's cool to see the fabrication abilities so many people have.
just curious and always trying to learn so if you don't mind a question.....??
on the 3rd picture you posted
this one:
attachment.php


i see the line going into the base of the carb in front and I assume that one of the NOS lines? The line seems to be laying directly on top of the t-stat housing. The heat from the housing won't affect the NOS or the performance of it?
Again, not critisizing it, just curious and trying to learn. :beer:
Hi Barry. It is touching the housing but I wouldn't think it would affect anything. The water is only 200 degrees and there is only one contact point on one line. All three lines are tied together so all would still have uniform pressure. It was pretty hard to get everything to fit. I will keep this in mind when I dyno it. The dyno I am using has Wideband O2 sensors at each exhaust, 8 in all so I should be able to tell if I have any distribution problems. If so I could do a little more fabrication on the lines.
 
thanks for the explanation. what you say makes sense. Like I said, I was just curious and whenever i see something new (well, new for me) I like to ask questions to learn more.
Thanks for taking the time to explain :beer:
 
Welcome abourd

Excelent fabricating skills

I love the air cleaners I have to figure something out for my new tri power,I am not thrilled with the looks of mine yet.

I am sure you understand you just keep looking till you find something perfect


I am going to start looking for small round air cleaners then see what I can come up with



I can only assume you have a Mako from your name how about some pictures of the car your putting it in

Once again Welcome
 
Welcome abourd

Excelent fabricating skills

I love the air cleaners I have to figure something out for my new tri power,I am not thrilled with the looks of mine yet.

I am sure you understand you just keep looking till you find something perfect


I am going to start looking for small round air cleaners then see what I can come up with



I can only assume you have a Mako from your name how about some pictures of the car your putting it in

Once again Welcome
I did a lot of reaserch on the tripowers. The small round air cleaners don't provide enough CFM to feed the carbs. Even the small base 271 CFM versions. These came from Vintage Speed. He has a variety of different air cleaners for these. Will start a new thread for car pictures
 
I will post up photos tonight of my finished engine bay. I have the triangle air cleaner on it and I don't like it,it just does not look write.

The one that came with the tri power set up is oval like a dual quad set up and looks nice but I cant find a short enough air filter for it and it has the word demon engraved in it and I just don't like it


I need to find a dual quad air cleaner set up with a real short air filter.My preference would be something out of billet aluminum to match the rest of the engine bay.

A freind of mine had a Big Block tri powered galaxcy and that had a real low profile air filter element in it.

I had it out at a Vette car show this week end and only a few people actually noticed it was a trip power. Sounds silly but most folk thought it was just a tri power air cleaner ,so this is just not working for me.

I do have to say I finally have the car dialed back in and it has a real strong idle in it, definitely runs stronger and sounds meaner with this set up on it.
 
just curious and always trying to learn so if you don't mind a question.....??
:beer:
get used to Barry asking lots of questions....he just does that....but that is why we all like him.....you will find that he inspires some of us (like me) to go further on my project than I had ever intended....so if you find yourself deep into a project.....just remember to tell yourself...ITS BARRY'S FAULT!!! LOL

welcome to the site....good guys here......

regards, Herb
 

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