Leaking Oil Drain Plug?

[Donne Trav]

Stripped Oil Pan Threads?

Some few years ago, when the dealership was changing my oil, the threads on the oil pan were stripped slightly. I didn't notice this until I began changing the oil myself. I had to take special precautions when replacing the drain plug ( doubling the washers seemed to work). I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago and noticed an oil leak at the "oil drain plug". I believe it's because of the stripped threads on the oil pan. Where can I purchase a "Self-tapping"/over size oil drain plug for my 1994 LT1 Corvette? Also, are any of you using the "Quik Valve" (no mess) drain plug apparatus? Does it work? Changing the oil gets quite messy at times. Thanks

 

[Schrade]

If the dealership slightly stripped the threads, I would ask them to slightly fix it...

I have ALWAYS dreaded stripped threading, much more than loose bolts, spark plugs, etc. YUP. The sick feeling of a spark plug that just 'tightened' a little more in an aluminum head is not pleasant feeling...

 

[boomdriver]

If the dealership slightly stripped the threads, I would ask them to slightly fix it...

I have ALWAYS dreaded stripped threading, much more than loose bolts, spark plugs, etc. YUP. The sick feeling of a spark plug that just 'tightened' a little more in an aluminum head is not pleasant feeling...

I know that feeling all too well....

I'm so paranoid of stripping a plug hole that I refuse to work on plugs in aluminum heads if the engine is even slightly warm, and never never ever start a plug with a tool...just finger tips regardless of the difficulty.

According to the book, its a 10 minute job to pull the pan and change it. There is no known cure for stripped threads that is assured of sealing more than one time.

 

[Curious George]

If spark plugs etc, are lubricated properly prior to being installed, and torqued properly, pulling them out should not be an issue. Unfortunately, this is not always the case, hence the issues we see with aluminum parts.

The oil pan can probably be drilled and re-tapped for the next size fastener.

CG

 

[boomdriver]

If spark plugs etc, are lubricated properly prior to being installed, and torqued properly, pulling them out should not be an issue. Unfortunately, this is not always the case, hence the issues we see with aluminum parts.

The oil pan can probably be drilled and re-tapped for the next size fastener.

CG

nawww.
hosin it off with brakes parts cleaner then glue the plug in with Blue RTV will do just fine.. otfl

 

[Jeb]

Helicoil?

 

[boomdriver]

Helicoil?

Helicoils work best in holes with a longer tapped hole,. IF there is a good thread at the end of the hole, it might be possible to get a heli inserted and screwed in against that last thread. But, the typical oil pan is just a nut welded inside the pan, so that means very few threads, if any to grab the helicoil. There is also the possibility that the welded nut has partially broken loose inside.


Still, changing a pan is a pretty simple project and can be done anywhere a set of jackstands can be used to hold the front end up.. The FSM detail of the task is only one paragraph.

 

[LLC5]

Some few years ago, when the dealership was changing my oil, the threads on the oil pan were stripped slightly. I didn't notice this until I began changing the oil myself. I had to take special precautions when replacing the drain plug ( doubling the washers seemed to work). I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago and noticed an oil leak at the "oil drain plug". I believe it's because of the stripped threads on the oil pan. Where can I purchase a "Self-tapping"/over size oil drain plug for my 1994 LT1 Corvette? Also, are any of you using the "Quik Valve" (no mess) drain plug apparatus? Does it work? Changing the oil gets quite messy at times. Thanks

If you can find a self tapping over sized drain plug, don't use it, as it can pop out and you will seriously regret installing it. I would try a time sert first, as it locks into the oil pan and has metal threads for the drain plug. It takes special tools to install it, so take it to a shop that knows how to install them and has the proper install kit. The key to doing it properly is to make sure that the hole is drillied straight to the oil pan, or the drain plug and gasket won't seat correctly when tight, and will leak. Good luck with it.

 

[WhalePirot]

I believe it's because of the stripped threads on the oil pan.

Were the threads stripped?

I make sealing washers from used plastic bottles; the thicker ones, not milk 'bottles'. They seal well, if reasonable crafted, don't need much tightening to seal and can be reused.

 

[Donne Trav]

Problem Solved!

Thanks All! The problem has been solved. It seems as though young assistants that do oil changes, etc. accidently inserted the wrong size plug years ago. Ever since I have thought the threads on the oil pan were stripped somewhat and I had been using multiple washers which seem to help a lot. This past oil change I matched up the "bad" plug
with one that I was told was the right size and "wow" no more leak.
Size does make a difference. Thanks again.

 

[LLC5]

Thanks All! The problem has been solved. It seems as though young assistants that do oil changes, etc. accidently inserted the wrong size plug years ago. Ever since I have thought the threads on the oil pan were stripped somewhat and I had been using multiple washers which seem to help a lot. This past oil change I matched up the "bad" plug
with one that I was told was the right size and "wow" no more leak.
Size does make a difference. Thanks again.

If by "wrong size plug" you mean incorrect bolt size or thread pitch, then your oil pan drain does have "somewhat stripped" and damaged threads. It's good that it is not leaking now, but keep a close eye on it as damaged threads (even though they may have looked good visually when you checked them) will be a problem in the future. Glad you got the leaked fixed.