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More bad news Now on my motor

There are definite advantages to the crate engine, particularly that lovely guarantee. I, too, wonder how the engine shops afford to stay in business. It's a dog eat dog business at the best of times. Having the manufacturers take away a major part of their business by selling crates at such reasonable prices must hurt.

As for the dog... well, you know how I feel.

-Mac
 
Larry...hold out for the fall and get the new Z06 crate motor...the LS7...427 cu inch....then you might have a chance of keeping up with 67Heaven.....
 
Here is the cam spec


Its 2.19" intake and 1.88" exhaust valves and high lift .510"/.540" roller cam let it breathe with the best of the early muscle motors

Anybody have an idea what the idel will sound like?. is this considered a hot cam? or mild? will it have enough vacum for power brakes
Does anybody know if my headers will fit.What type of heads does this motor have retangular,oval or square port. The header I got were meant for my other motor with the big openings (I forgot what they were called)
 
with a new 454 crate motor, you have to be more than 1/3 of the way there....of course they are supposed to cost $15k......but wow....the torque and the HP....never mind the WOW factor....you have how much in your car and you are worried about a little more......sigh....it is easy for me....cause its your MONEY!!!!!
 
Since we're spending your money, Larry, why settle for anything but the best?

12498827a320.jpg


[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Horsepower [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]720 [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]@ 6250 RPM[/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Torque [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]685 Ft. Lbs. @ 4500 RPM[/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Compression Ratio [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]12:1[/font]



After all...........you're a big block guy. Never settle! ;)
 
67HEAVEN said:
Since we're spending your money, Larry, why settle for anything but the best?

12498827a320.jpg


[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Horsepower [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]720 [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]@ 6250 RPM[/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Torque [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]685 Ft. Lbs. @ 4500 RPM[/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Compression Ratio [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]12:1[/font]



After all...........you're a big block guy. Never settle! ;)
Click to expand...
I like it.....how much is that sucker? Will that fit in a tube frame for a C1?
 
firstgear said:
I like it.....how much is that sucker? Will that fit in a tube frame for a C1?
Click to expand...

A mere $US13,325.00. Quite reasonable really.

The only change from most BBC engines is the tall-deck issue. It should fit fine.

Line up forms to the right. ;)
 
That is a mild cam and I would change it out. We have had several of these engines and the cam really kills it. I would go with something around .600 lift and .300 duration will give you a good power band and will sound tuff. Why not just buy a 4 bolt block and build the engine from the parts you have. If you have a good shop it will be a better piece than a crate engine. This crate engine uses a flat tappet cam, dual plane intake and other less desirable parts. I would consider building something with what you have. You could even consider finding a bow tie block put your 4" stroke in it bore it 4.5 or 4.6 and have a 510" or 532" big block with your heads. You should be able to find one for around $1500. They are a much stronger piece with a high nickel content, thicker deck and simeised cylinder walls.


www.pugesekmotorsports.com
 
IH2LOSE said:
Here is the cam spec


Its 2.19" intake and 1.88" exhaust valves and high lift .510"/.540" roller cam let it breathe with the best of the early muscle motors

Anybody have an idea what the idel will sound like?. is this considered a hot cam? or mild? will it have enough vacum for power brakes
Does anybody know if my headers will fit.What type of heads does this motor have retangular,oval or square port. The header I got were meant for my other motor with the big openings (I forgot what they were called)
Click to expand...

Larry,

It should provide more than enough vacuum. The roller cam does wonders for driveability and responsiveness.

The heads are likely the latest BBC design, similar to mine.
ZZ-502-05.jpg


The cam will sound a little less lopey than your L-72, but it'll be "right there" when you ask for it.

Your headers should be fine.
 
vette rod said:
That is a mild cam and I would change it out. We have had several of these engines and the cam really kills it. I would go with something around .600 lift and .300 duration will give you a good power band and will sound tuff. Why not just buy a 4 bolt block and build the engine from the parts you have. If you have a good shop it will be a better piece than a crate engine. This crate engine uses a flat tappet cam, dual plane intake and other less desirable parts. I would consider building something with what you have. You could even consider finding a bow tie block put your 4" stroke in it bore it 4.5 or 4.6 and have a 510" or 532" big block with your heads. You should be able to find one for around $1500. They are a much stronger piece with a high nickel content, thicker deck and simeised cylinder walls.

www.pugesekmotorsports.com
Click to expand...

Larry this is what is making me crazy,He says the crate will be cheaper even with all of my good parts I have,
I am not looking for a racer ,I want a mean/bad sounding car (Not a loud exchast) that will run on pump gas, zDrive a season with out maintnence.and have alot of torque
 
IH2LOSE said:
Larry this is what is making me crazy,He says the crate will be cheaper even with all of my good parts I have,
I am not looking for a racer ,I want a mean/bad sounding car (Not a loud exchast) that will run on pump gas, zDrive a season with out maintnence.and have alot of torque
Click to expand...

A block is about $400 even if its a 2 bolt that would be plenty for you. Where are you located, if you want I could set you up with my engine guy. He does all his own port work as well. He built me a 540" big chief headed ,dry sump 1080 HP engine that I run on the street with no problems. We race a mountain motor pro stock as well. I will post some pics of my engine so you can check it out.
 
vette rod said:
A block is about $400 even if its a 2 bolt that would be plenty for you. Where are you located, if you want I could set you up with my engine guy. He does all his own port work as well. He built me a 540" big chief headed ,dry sump 1080 HP engine that I run on the street with no problems. We race a mountain motor pro stock as well. I will post some pics of my engine so you can check it out.
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry I am on the east coast about 40 minutes north of NYC.I was actually searching ebay last night and there seems to be 2 motor buiders on there with great feed back selling short block/reciprocating engines. I will pm you a link. I am out all day for work so Ill check in here tonight
 
The HO stands for high output, it also stands for big valves, rectangular ports, forged pistons, forged steel
crankshaft, forged connecting rods and four bolt mains. Sounds a lot like the performance big blocks of the late
60’s doesn’t it? When you add in the steel roller camshaft, shotpeened rods, windage tray, one piece rear main
seal and high speed single roller timing chain, it starts to sound more like the performance big block of the new
millennium. And it is
Click to expand...

sounds like to me the only thing its missing is the Aluminum heads when I was younger I used to like to run big cams now that I am older I choose cams that are designed for torque with plenty of vacuum for street use, it all depends on how much you plan to drive the car. If you want something that will idle all day in the traffic back east stay mild but if you want that lopy rumpt rumpt rumpt go a little wilder and tighten up the lobe center.
just another $.02 from an old fart;)
 
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