More problems Code 32

[Dog House]

This thread just keeps getting moreintersting all the time.

Checked the injectors to see if they were getting a signal and the driver’s side bank was not. No wonder is runs so bad it’s only running on four cylinders. I changed the ignition cylinder so I could hook the Vats up again and now it won’t turn over.
There are wiring issues under the passengers side hush panel which includes some burnt wires, disconnected connecters, and about 6 wires twisted together that are spliced into the ECM (possible Vats bypass?) which I disconnected form the ECM. I also found a black box and a battery under the carpeting on the passenger side that I have clue what there for? One wire from the battery goes to ground and the other is spliced into a orange wire that also has a white wire with it that is not hooked up to anything.

This is the VAts wires under the driver's side that had the key pellet between the two wires. This is why I replaced the ignition cylinder.

The black box and battery

The battery is connect to this orange wire.

 

[boomdriver]

well first, try to figure out whats been destroyed in VATS...missing modules etc...
Better go to Radio Shack and buy a resistor the same ohm as the key pellet and re-engineer that bypass that WAS under tha dash that you tried to fix. Until you know what other VATS damage there is, best to at least have it running.... Just buy a $0.79 resistor and stick in there,.

next, that battery box has antenna cable run to it, so a lojack system perhaps? some sort of tracking system that independent of the car battery.
Hiding them under a seat or carpet is common,.

4 dead cyl....check the power at BOTH inj fuses in the panel. Your inj system is simple, all 4 fire together on that side. One gets shorted, they all are shorted.
Start with the fuse panel inj fuses and trace circuits from there.

 

[Dog House]

All the blue wires are spliced into the wires in the two connectors going into the ECM then they are all twisted together with a wire nut?

What is a lojak system?

 

[Schrade]

Lojack is tracking - either by satellite, or magic wand, like for tracking hunting dogs in the woods. If some ghetto-dwellers from the hood boost your car, you wave the magic wand in a circle till the reader lights up. Grab your shootin' iron, and go get your car.

Aftermarket wiring is a mechanic's worst nightmare, unless paper and specs go with it.

First thing I would do, if it was mine, I would pull the aftermarket stuff OUT yup. Any connector is a good starting point to diagnose a circuit, with FSM.

Grab FSM, identify the harness connector by location, identify pins in the connector, and confirm that they go to the next harness connector as they're supposed to (continuity). Then you can test for proper voltage, or grounding. If you can't identify any particular connector, go to the next one (or device) that it leads to, and identify IT .

That's the only way to KNOW what's OEM. And you HAVE to know that before you start diags.

At least you're not scared to dig

 

[Dog House]

Hi Schrade, Out of curiosity I put all the blue wires back the way they were spliced into the ECM harnesses and tried to start the car using the new Vats ignition cylinder hooked up and it started.
Still hard to start, hesitates when you put the throttle to it and get an occasional pop apparently through the TB but it’s running on all eight cylinders. What a difference!

But why does it run with all the blues wires hooked to the ECM when there all twisted together? And not with them disconnected?

The blue wires are connected to the ECM as follows.

24 pin connector
A12 – Black/White strip wire
A11 – Black/Pink strip
A10 – Brown
B3 – Black/Red strip

32 pin connector
D1 – Black/Whit strip
D2 – Black
D3 – Back/White strip
D10 – Black/White strip


Are all these wires ground wires?

 

[John Robinson]

Wires

OK from what I can see in my FSM for my 93 the wires you describe are ground wires. The Brown for example are for the CCM. Black/Red seems to be for the EBTCM. DERM is Black/White ECM may have a Tan and the O2 Sensor may be Black. It appears that different systems use a different color or combination of colors for the ground. I would guess that is to make it easier to follow them. As for there being all bundled together I ran into that problem last year on a BMW motorcycle that had melted the ground wires. It seems that they all have to be connected together and since I am not an electronics guy I can only think that it is so the different systems they go to can sense that ground is active or inactive and therefore it acts like a signal to the ECM as to what sequence each system is in.

Wow you are getting closer now that you have all eight firing.

 

[Dog House]

Thanks John, as you know it’s been a long road but I can finally see light at the end of the tunnel.
I guess for now I’ll just leave the blue wires twisted together until I can get under the car to check the grounds.
Apparently the burnt wiring I found on the passenger side goes to the rear for the lights. The brake light fuse blows when I apply the break so I have a little wiring to do.

 

[boomdriver]

you're going to have to trace each of those wires to see which type of ground they are.
There are at least 2 types...
1 is a "control" ground that is used by the ECM to operate something.
2nd is a common ground that just completes a path.
3rd can be a power ground, similar to a control ground but it may carry a reference signal of a few volts (millivolts) and something wonlt work right without it.

Your tail lite short....I had the same thing. Mine was a loose fuse in the fuse panel that was loose enough to arc and melt the plastic. This allowed the wire on the backside to come out.
I ran a new circuit for the tail lite fuse with a fuse holder just under the edge of the lower panel.
Look for poor connections on the backside of the fuse panel.

 

[Schrade]

If you're getting any 'popping' in the intake, you might need to check timing. Did you ever do static timing test?

It could also be an intake valve not seating, allowing the fire back into the intake. Loss of power, overheating the valve, ... Did you do a static compression in the holes?


edit:
Electricity is just like water flow. You have a source, a water wheel (light bulb), and a place that the used water goes. Divert some water BEFORE the wheel (add ground wire), water slows down at the wheel (bulb dims). Divert some water AFTER the wheel (add ground), and it can allow the water to drain faster (bulb lights up more, til it blows).

Of course, there are differences in water and electricity too - they taste different. Especially to the analog organic multimeter, pictured below: (don't believe it? test a battery yup)

I'm allergic to electricity too. Gives me the shakes and stuff. I'm not selfish, and I look for buddies to share with. Good buddies can keep ya' GROUNDED - know what I mean?

 

[John Robinson]

Valves

OK I hate to seem like a pest on this but have you checked the valves for proper adjustment. Shrade has brought up a good point about a valve not seating. Since I have been following this saga I have become convinced that the previous owner of this car was a head mechanic on a professional team like the C6R team. Do us all a favor and keep his name a secret . I would not want him to be overwhelmed by people trying to get him to give their cars his special touch.

 

[Dog House]

I did a static timing on it quite some time ago and all was fine other I did pull the distributor because it was a tooth off. I have not checked the valves a few people said not to bother that they usually don’t go out of adjustment?
Right now I’m resetting the idle, TPS, and Timing. As the engine warms up the RPM’s are increasing upward to 1600? At first start it was 1,000
I’ll let you know what happends.

 

[Dog House]

My God I’ve resurrected the dead, Halleluiah! It’s been a long hull but I think this thread can finally be put to bed.
After resetting the idle, TPS and timing she’s running great. Took her out for the first time sense I got her and it was a gas! :cool Didn’t know what I was missing.
Still have a lot of work to do with the wiring but it’ll be worth my efforts.
Thanks to all of you who gave your expert advice, you guys are great!
And it only took eight pages, LOL
Thanks again!

 

[John Robinson]

Yee Hah

One thing you can say is we are a persistent bunch. Cudos to you for not giving up. But what do we do now for entertainment

 

[boomdriver]

Good Job!

Told ya it was'nt the antenna,...

 

[Schrade]

Good Job!

Told ya it was'nt the antenna,...

Yeah - right.

You told him stale air freshener uh HUH

Schrade-> <-boomD*