More problems Code 32

[John Robinson]

Injector check

Take the connector off and then check the ohms by probing the injector pins.

 

[c4c5specialist]

Because your testing just the injectors, you do not need to have the ignition on.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Dog House]

Just checked the injectors and all eight register 16.4 ohms.

 

[Dog House]

Well sense it looks like no one else has any ideas I have decided to replace the EGR and while I’m under the plenum I might just as well replace the FP regulator.
Anyone know what sensor is mounted on the under side of the plenum?
Found another example of how this car was treated. I found three missing bolts on the lower part of the plenum to intake. Now I'll have to remove the fuel rails to put the bolts back in.
Who ever put the new injectors in neglected to put the bolts back in or go buy new ones if they were already missing.
This car is amazing every time I dig into something on it I find something else wrong with it. ad
Sure going to be fun when I get her running though.

 

[boomdriver]

Under the plenum....

there will be the EGR solenoid.....the manifold air temp sensor screwed In the bottom of the plenum, and thats about it.
I relocated both items for better access.
There are only 4 or 5 bolts in the lower runner mounts on each side and 1 or 2 are installed from the opposite side, so take a close look at that. You should not have to pull rails off to remove or install runner bolts. Thats why some are installed from the other side.
Also whenever I assemble a runner set & plenum to a baseplate assy, I smear a very thin coat of never-seize on the gaskets so they do not stick to the aluminum and have to be scraped off or tear the next time it comes apart.Those gaskets are low pressure/vac and do not have to be glued on. All they have to do is be there.

 

[Dog House]

Thanks boomdriver, do you think it’s necessary to replace the manifold air temp sensor or do they normally not go bad?
Also I’m looking in my FSM to see about valve adjustment but not really finding the procedure. Sense I have to remove the valve covers to get at one or two screws for the plenum I might as well do that too.

 

[boomdriver]

you should not have to remove the valve covers to remove plenum bolts either. Unless they are some really tall custom valve covers, all plenum bolts run across the top along the flange on the runners (tubes) and then the runners come off at the bottom where the lower flange bolts up to the intake baseplate. Its a 3 piece system. All you need to remove is the top piece (plenum body). Just remove the top row of 4 bolts on each side and take the throttle body off and lift the plenum (box)straight up and out.The runner tubes remain in place on both sides. That leaves the EGR accessable. Have some tools available, because one EGR bolt is difficult to get to. There is nothing to remove that helps access, it just takes an offset box-end wrench or something similar.
Unless there is some pretty loud valve ticking, there is no need to adjust valves because the lifters are roller hydraulic and its too easy to over tighten. When a valve starts making noise its time for new lifters, but thats rare. The ticking sounds that you might hear with the hood open is most likely injector tick, and thats pretty common but not a real problem.

I seriously doubt that its worth replacing that sensor. Its a simple sensor exactly like the water temp sensor and just does not fail unless its been physically damaged. Lots of folks move them to the air filter box because of the theory that when its mounted where it is, it sends false signals because of the heat levels in that area. The idea is that a hot sensor causes the ECM to lean out the fuel/air mix. It probably does have a very very minor effect, but its likely not enough to worry about. I moved mine but I had a boatload of other enhancements so I could not say for sure if it mattered or not. Your old one is probably OK.

have some carb spray douche and a small bottle brush handy to clean the EGR passage in the intake baseplate. It will be carboned up pretty good and often the reason that an EGR valve sticks open sometimes.

 

[John Robinson]

Thanks boomdriver, do you think it’s necessary to replace the manifold air temp sensor or do they normally not go bad?
Also I’m looking in my FSM to see about valve adjustment but not really finding the procedure. Sense I have to remove the valve covers to get at one or two screws for the plenum I might as well do that too.

I agree with you about doing the valves. You simply can not assume anything is right with this engine. In my FSM for my 93 the information for valve adjustment is in Section 6A1A-10 Hopefully for your L98 it will be somewere close to that in you manual. This is a most interesting post and I believe you are olose to bringing this car back to life.

 

[Dog House]

Happy Easter everyone, Does anybody know what tool is required to remove the Fuel Pressure Regulator? It looks to be a small Torx? My smallest Torx fits but when I try to remove the screws it wants to strip the head. :confused

 

[Dog House]

Does anyone know if there should be a vacuum line on the back side of the valve that is mounted on a one of the bolts for the thermostat housing? The valve has two lines on one side that go to the EGR and I believe the under side of the TB but on the other side of the valve it has a clamp to hold a hose on and there is a hole in it as well.

 

[boomdriver]

Thats is NOT a hose fitting....it just looks like one. That is actually the vent for the valve. When vac moves the valve inside the air has to exit for the tiny amount of vac to be able to work. The vac lines go either side of the solenoid on the longer fittings. Which goes to the T-body and which to the EGR valve....I cannot tell you or know if it makes a difference.

The torx bit probably needs to be a safety torx with a hole in the center of the bit. The screws have a bump in the center so the common torx will not work.....just when you thought you had figured torx out...

 

[John Robinson]

EGR Solonoid

<a href="EGRJPG.jpg picture by John-68 - Photobucket" target="_blank"><img src="http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll72/John-68/EGRJPG.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

From what you say I think this sketch should help you with the EGR vacuum valve hose routing

 

[Dog House]

Thanks guys, yup saw the little bumps on the bolts once I put my glasses on. Funny how much glasses help, LOL.
Didn’t have the right size safety torx so I took a very small screw driver and knocked the bumps off so a normal torx would work.
Plenum is back on just need to clean the TB and MAF put them on and see if my efforts make a difference.
Probably won’t get back to it until some time during the week after work, my back is killing me. Good thing the car is up on jack stands or I’d really be hurting.

 

[Dog House]

Is there any reason to remove the coolant cover when cleaning the TB? Reason I ask is I put a rust buster on the bolts four different times and the first bolt I tried to loosen the head broke off. :ugh

 

[Dog House]

Okay, replaced the EGR and FPR, reset the idle, TPS, and timing. Not much change in the way it runs. She’s is a puzzler! :W
At least now she starts without pumping the pedal but it takes half dozen cranks to do so. But on the other hand I now get a little fuel spurting out the fitting where you hook up a presser tester?
It still sounds like a miss, at idle it shakes and in gear it doesn’t want to move.
I’m wondering now if something is shorting out, guess I’ll have to run it at night and look for sparks and hope to you know who I see some. Getting a little frustrating when everything you do has no effect on the way she runs.

 

[TedC]

What injectors are you running? Are these the stock multecs? They may of ohm'ed out ok and showed no leak down, but they still may not be flowing properly.

 

[Dog House]

Can’t be sure what injectors are in it other then they are ne , the previous owner replaced them right before I got the car. I found three boxes with the name Bostech Industries on it that had old injectors in it with no identifying markings.

 

[Schrade]

Holy COW - 6 PAGES for DTC 32!!!

Does the scanner manual have conversions for scanned values? Some of your readings I know show a specific problem, and other parameters are not given in numbers that I can interpret (equivalent values).

Someone said EVAP problems and EGR go together. An EVAP leak will trip a [false] DTC 32 EGR.

Does the motor lope idle WHEN WARM?

If not, you might still have a vacuum leak in the EVAP, but the duty cycle for EVAP purge must be bypassed/jumped, to put the ECM into purge mode. THEN you can do a vac leak test, and it MUST be done properly.

The scan you posted also shows OPEN loop readings. We need CLOSED loop readings.

Do you know when the battery had LAST BEEN DISCONNECTED when you scanned?

The BLOCK LEARN 150 is WAY off, unless the battery had just been re-connected.

The IAC number 160 is not in the neighborhood. It should be 20 - 30, or close. Hard again to tell by OPEN loop reading.

FT (fuel trim) cell 0 is meaningless - probably just is OPEN loop (again). I think this tells injector pulsewidth, since that reading is absent. ............... Oops - nevermind - Base PW = 4.6 ms - TOO long. OPEN loop???

The rest of readings mean nothing without scanner manual info. Need to know if battery had just been re-connected...

Unplug it again, re-connect, let it fully warm up, take a CLOSED loop reading, then ANOTHER, to see if BLM is approaching 128, or not.

 

[Schrade]

You need to do COMPLETE stating and dynamic fuel pressure tests. Static and dynamic timing would help too, since scanner reading was ???

EGR diagnostic switch (???) 'ON' ??? Are the wires reversed to the EGR solenoid? Do you have FSM for wiring reference?

 

[Dog House]

Scharde, I’ll do another scan tomorrow and post the results. The previous scan was done last fall. Right now there is no light on depicting a problem.