More problems Code 32

[Schrade]

Okay I went to check/adjust the timing today and disconnected the ECM 4 prong harness at the distributor per the FSM instructions and the engine would not start. Starts fine with it hooked up but no start if disconnected. Anyone have a clue why it shouldn’t start?
HELP!!! :confused

The engine won't ever start if the distributor harness is disconnected.

What sequence are you doing from the FSM here?

 

[T.M.808]

Hey bro,sorry long day painting the car and some other parts.
In the morning i'll post the min idle and TPS procedures.

The wire you're looking for is not the distributor harness,but the single tan wire just off to the driver side of the distributor. It will set off you're check engine lite,so don't panic about that,i'll check ya in the morning.

 

[Schrade]

TPS will re-calibrate itself. Disconnect it with the ignition 'ON', wait a few minutes, and re-connect. After a few closed loop drive cycles, it will re-calibrate. In the meantime, it will string out rpm's in each gear (auto), 'til re-calibrated.

 

[T.M.808]

The 82 - 89 TPS switch needs to be set at .54 mv for the the ECM to read the throttle position. The switch is not like the LT1 non adjustable " auto-zeroing" TPS type.

 

[Dog House]

T.M. are you referring to the single wire on the left side of the distributor that says tach? That’s the only single tan/off white colored wire I can find on the drivers side of the distributor.

 

[T.M.808]

No,the tan wire doesn't come directly off the distributor. The tan wire is over more toward the brake booster. It will store a code 42 in your ECM when you set the timing.

 

[T.M.808]

Ok, here the 2 procedures you need. Follow these instructions and everything will be dialed in,and we'll see if you have anymore issues after this is done. Good luck,hope the car runs cherry after this..

There are two electrical components on the TB that you will be working with: The TPS and the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). Make sure that the connectors for these two components are easily accessible and that you can easily disconnect the IAC.


You will also be playing with the diagnostic connector under the dash. Remove the cover (if it's still in place). Bend your paper clip into a "U" shape. You will be playing with the two top right hand terminals ("A" and "B") in the connector.


First step is to set the minimum idle speed. If nobody has messed with this on your car before, the set screw will be covered by a pressed-in plug. It's located on the driver's side of the TB. Remove this plug if it's there.


With the IAC connected and the ignition "OFF," stick the paper clip into the diagnostic connector from "A" to "B." This grounds the diagnostic lead.
Turn the ignition to the "ON" position without starting the engine. Wait 30 seconds.
Now, with the ignition still in the "ON" position, disconnect the IAC connector at the IAC.


Remove the paper clip from the diagnostic connector.


Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. The idle speed will probably be really low, and you may have to coax the engine a bit with the gas pedal to keep it running for a while.


If your car is an automatic, set the parking brake and put the transmission in "DRIVE." If your car is a manual, leave it in neutral.


Adjust the idle speed screw to obtain 400 rpm in drive or 450 in neutral.


Shut off the engine and re-connect the IAC.


That's it for idle speed. Now on to the TPS.


There are 3 wires stacked vertically on the TPS. You will need to be able to measure the voltage between the two top wires. You can either buy a special harness connector that breaks these wires out (from Mid America), or gently pierce the insulation of the wires with the pointy prongs on your volt meter. You can also stick a paper clip into each of the two top locations of the connector and clamp onto the paper clips to measure the voltage. Whatever is easiest for you.


Turn the ignition to the "ON" position without starting the engine.
Loosen the TPS Torx adjustment screws.
Set your volt meter to a low scale DC volt setting that will accurately read less than 1 volt.
Measure the voltage between the two top TPS wires.
Adjust the TPS by rotating its position until you get a reading of .54 volts.
Tighten the Torx screws and recheck the voltage. Re-adjust if necessary to make sure voltage is right at .54.
Turn the ignition "OFF."

You are now in perfect adjustment on idle speed and TPS output. Start the engine. It may take a few seconds for the car to "catch on" to its new settings

 

[Dog House]

Good morning T.M. just got through putting plugs, wires, cap and rotor in, things are looking a little better. Boy the passenger side plugs are fun, NOT! :ugh
I finally found the wire you were talking about and did get code 42 after disconnecting it. The timing wasn’t even close to the indicator plate it was probably about 20 degrees before top dead, I set it to 6 degrees before. I believe that is the correct timing.
Is it going to be a problem setting the idle the way this car is running? Cold start running at 400 rpm running ruff, warmed up almost 1,500 rpm.
Also the idle screw plug has been removed so someone must have messed with it.

 

[T.M.808]

Good morning T.M. just got through putting plugs, wires, cap and rotor in, things are looking a little better. Boy the passenger side plugs are fun, NOT! :ugh
I finally found the wire you were talking about and did get code 42 after disconnecting it. The timing wasn’t even close to the indicator plate it was probably about 20 degrees before top dead, I set it to 6 degrees before. I believe that is the correct timing.
Is it going to be a problem setting the idle the way this car is running? Cold start running at 400 rpm running ruff, warmed up almost 1,500 rpm.
Also the idle screw plug has been removed so someone must have messed with it.

Good morning. Ya,since someone messed with the idle screw,you will have to check it,and most likely adjust it,then do the tps switch. Hopefully the car will stay running while you set the minimum idle,since the automatic trans car has to be set while in drive,it wouldn't hurt to have someone hold the brake inside the car while you turn the screw,wouldn't want the car to surge or something while your not in it,not sure how good you're emergency brake is..lol.

Were you able to clean the throttle body? I promise you it needs it.Don't use carb cleaner,but throttle body cleaner. If you can't take the t body off the car,remove the "accordian" from the front of the throttle body,clean the blades,any grooves or ridges you might feel were the blades close. And shoot everything you can inside the opening of the throttle body.

 

[Dog House]

Does it matter which of the two wires on the IAC the red and black probs go to?
Cleaning the TB will be the next thing to do.

 

[T.M.808]

You'll only need the meter for the TPS switch,it's been a while since i had to check mine,but i think if you look closely at the TPS switch,(were the 3 wires coonect to the switch),it has a + and - symbol stamped in the plastic. But even if your not sure,it the meter will still read the mv's correctly,if the red and black leads are reversed,there will just be a - symbol infront of your meter reading. Hope that makes sense.

I know i've said it already. lol but the min idle has to be set rite before the TPS is set. The min idle check/set,you won't need the meter,just need the jumper wire (paper clip) for the ECM ports (located right about were your right knee is while driving,under the panel) ,and unplugging the IAC connector,then turning the set screw and setting the idle to 400rmps in drive for auto trans,or 450rpm's in nuteal for 6 speed.

 

[Dog House]

Is it possible not to get reading at the TPS?

 

[T.M.808]

When the key is on,there should always be power to the switch,if the switch is dead,try to test the 3 wires in the harness,just to verify theres power in the TPS wiring harness.

 

[Dog House]

Well T.M. I think I’m going to clean the TB and put this thing to bed for the winter. I was able to get everything adjusted per your instructions and it still runs like crap. It idles a little better and doesn’t increase rpm’s after warm up but still wants to cut out both at idle and while driving down the road. Hopefully after cleaning the TB it will be better. Thanks again for all your help, Keith

 

[T.M.808]

Oh man,we were starting to get somewere. Thats cool,you gotta do what you gotta do... Must suck having to put a car up for any lenght of time.

 

[Dog House]

Yup, November in Minnesota gets a little chilly although we have had three straight days of 60 degree weather, snow will be coming soon. I’ll keep at it as long as I can not having a garage.
To what extent do you take apart the TB for cleaning, entirely?

 

[G Winter]

I wouldn't remove the throttle plates and shaft. Other than that there isn't to much to take apart.I didn't even take off the TPS that way I didn't have to adjust it.

Glenn

 

[T.M.808]

When i clean mine,about every 6 months,i get the gasket set,remove t body,remove sensors,remove cover plate,soak for a while,rinse,reistall.The passages under the cover plate can actually get completly plugged up,and the IAC area needs alot of attention too.Since i live in hawaii,i took the coolant hoses and bypassed the tbody.I don't think i'll have to worry about the tbody icing up,plus,when the cars warmed up,i'm not circulating 220* water thru my tbody,making the intake air that much hotter..also makes it much faster to remove the tbody.I can get mine off in under 5 minutes.

 

[Dog House]

Is it possible the resonator could be clogged? Reason I ask is all this time I have been working on this the muffler on the drivers side was disconnected. Not really a muffler more like a baffle like on a motor cycle. They have one inlet and then split into two coming out the back. Never the less I put it back on, started the car and it ran worse then with it disconnected. As I said earlier after getting the base timing, idle speed, and TPS set it still ran poorly. Does this sound like the resonator being clogged or maybe both the mufflers/baffles? It sounds restricted.

 

[Dog House]

I confirmed the eliminators I guess they are called are not clogged. I took the drivers side off again and it still ran like crap. I guess I just couldn’t hear how badly it runs until I put the pipe back on. What would cause this car to run so bad? I remember a 1976 Pontiac I had ran like this does when the catalytic converter clogged up. No power like it's running on 4 instead of 8.