Motive Products PowerBleeder tool - Brake bleeding sequence

[kbuhagiar]

Hello folks,

I just purchased a Motive Products PowerBleeder tool, and I'm ready to do the brakes on my 63.

All of the brake components are brand new, from the master cylinder to the lines to the wheel cylinders. Do I still have to bench bleed the MC, or can I just bolt it up to the firewall and bleed the MC as part of the system?

Also, what is the proper sequence at the wheels? Do I start bleeding at the nearest (LF) or at the farthest (RR) from the MC?

Thanks in advance!

 

[stepinwolf]

Hello folks,

I just purchased a Motive Products PowerBleeder tool, and I'm ready to do the brakes on my 63.

All of the brake components are brand new, from the master cylinder to the lines to the wheel cylinders. Do I still have to bench bleed the MC, or can I just bolt it up to the firewall and bleed the MC as part of the system?

Also, what is the proper sequence at the wheels? Do I start bleeding at the nearest (LF) or at the farthest (RR) from the MC?

Thanks in advance!

All master cylinders MUST be bench bled, before their installation on the firewall. You will save yourself a lot of aggravation by doing so.

As for the sequence it should be as follows RR, LR, RF, LF.. Then for an extra measure, I go over them one last time.

Stepinwolf

 

[IH2LOSE]

I have been using a motive bleeder for a while. Out of habit I still bench bleed but once I am done bench bleeding I always say to myself "Self You dont have to do that no more" John H uses one also I hope he lets us know if we still have to bench bleed or not. Again every time I have replaced a master I still bench bleed ed it but it was more because of habit. I dont think we have to do it anymore. ( no offence meant Bob I respect your knowledge and experience)

So what I feel is the most important is to make sure your adapter cap is installed Square,flush,flat,level Meaning that the big plate with the chain on it sit perfect on the master, Not pulling more to one side,

Load it with fluid and add some pressure. You dont need a lot of pressure here

I always go to the closest in tubing length and work my self away to the furthest in tubing length. Crack my bleeder and let it run. Watching the fluid level in the bleeder.If its silicone I dont recycle the fluid back into the bleeder I catch it in a clean soda bottle ( that I drilled holes in the cap for 2 hose) I have a set of 4 of these I use, I also have a ring I got from a garden store to protect sprinkler heads and I taped it to the bottom of my bottles so they dont tip over. Anyways I dont reuse the fluid that comes out I put that in a large glass container to use at a different time.

Once I have gone around the car once and its clean, I let it sit for 10 minutes and repeat the same process.

Use ally its done the first time around. But you know how old habits are.

I make sure all of my bleeders are tight. I remove the pressure from my bleeder and turn it on it side so it doesn't pull more fluid.Then I open my closest bleeder and let it gravity drain my bleeders hose, then I let it bleed a little bit more to lower the level in the master so I can remove the bleeder adapter with out having a spill.

Works great

a couple of weeks ago a fellow vette owner who also owns a repair shop was complaining he had a shark in his shop that he rebuilt the brake system and at the customers request he was converting it to silicone and for the last 2 days he could not get a good pedal with all of the tricks he knows. I said I can bleed them perfect in 20 minutes flat, Well I was wrong as we found a leak on the hard lines that he had never seen Anyways once he repaired the leaking hard line. We had a perfect pedal in no time at all.

he order a motive bleeder before I left his shop.

Once you try it you will be telling every one to get one.

Good luck

Any

 

[stepinwolf]

No offense taken, maby it's just that I am too old, and stuck in my ways.

I am well aware that you are never too old to learn new tricks, but I have been doing it this way for longer then I can remember, and it has always worked perfectly, so I am a bit hesitant to change my procedure.

I would hate like héll to have to remove the MC, once it had been correctly installed and filled, because for what ever reason it refused to be bled on the car

It's akin to the " better safe then sorry " thingy.

Stepinwolf

 

[JohnZ]

All of the brake components are brand new, from the master cylinder to the lines to the wheel cylinders. Do I still have to bench bleed the MC, or can I just bolt it up to the firewall and bleed the MC as part of the system?

Yup, you have to bench-bleed the master cylinder - that's the only way to get the trapped air out of the bore.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Yup, you have to bench-bleed the master cylinder - that's the only way to get the trapped air out of the bore.

Thank you I stand corrected.

And Bob I have to remember what my grandfather taught me long ago ,Never doubt some ones wisdom. Every now and then I stray , Sure wish he was still around to keep me in check

 

[stepinwolf]

Thank you I stand corrected.

And Bob I have to remember what my grandfather taught me long ago ,Never doubt some ones wisdom. Every now and then I stray , Sure wish he was still around to keep me in check

Don't worry about it, like yourself, I to, have strayed many many times, but héll, that's the only way we can learn new stuff.

As for the " try it my way " I must confess the reason I don't particular like to change my procedure regarding the bench bleed, is because of my laziness. I so much hate the idea of having to loosen the fittings, and remove all the brake lines once I have succeeded in putting it all together, that I would do anything in order to not be obliged to start over again.

The mess it creates, and the danger of spillage, far out weight the time that is needed to do the bench procedure, so let all " Keep On Bleeding "

Stepinwolf

 

[bossvette]

I have always done it like Larry shortest to the longest, but I do remember seeing somewhere a procedure for the C2-3 which have 6 bleeders but I can't find it. My 76 wouldn't get a "good pedal" until I replaced the lines also, I bled that closest to the longest. Just bought a motive bleeder to bleed the brakes on the S10 beater, put it up on the lift then put it back down; all the lines need to be replaced brake and fuel I guess it isnt too bad for 130,000 midwest rust belt miles.