MSD 6AL Installation

[Bob Chadwick]

I started my installation of my ignition box today and ran into my first snag. Where to put it. I have a 77 with a/c and I thought I could put it down low on the passenger side on the wheel well. Unfortunately an a/c component is down there and it forces it outside, where the "gill" gets in the way. Bottom line is it won't fit.

So I tried the same place on the driver's side. The charcoal cannister gets in the way.

Started looking topside. The passenger side is too congested with the overflow bottle, etc. Driver's side had a little room between the alternator and fender until I started to close the hood and the hinge rotated down and into the space.

I thought about a custom bracket and mounting it off the fender but this would have resulted in the box above either the headers or the engine and I'm concerned about that heat.

So I looked in the front of the car and think I found the perfect place. On the bracket that attaches in the center of the bumper between the headlights. Is there any reason not to mount it there? It shouldn't block air flow to the radiator and a/c and will actually get the benefit of some cooling. The only draw back is in a front end accident the unit might be damaged but an impact of that magnitude would likely damage the radiator as well.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Corv3tteFAN]

Have you thought of mounting it inside the car? I've seen some people mount the ignition box in the passenger's side. Take off the passenger console ( the thing with the map pocket) and look past the ventilation duct, There should be enough room for you there. The only draw back would be having to drill through. I saw a connector in a JEGs catalouge P/N 121-8211. Its called "Firewall feed-thru". Hope that helps.

~Franklin.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I thought of that and am trying to stay away from the holes in the firewall. In fact, I'm trying to plug all those holes to keep the heat out. :L

I got it in up above the bracket. Talk about a tight fit but it goes in there. I tried to take some pictures but I would have to take the radiator and hood out to get a camera in there.

 

[GTR1999]

I just installed a 6A on the pass fender next to the plastic rad overflow on a 75 non a/c car. I've seen them mounted in front and heard it's a good place,only concern would be water. If you get hit in the front you'll have more to think about then the box. I know of at least one that failed in the pass compartment on the firewall- too much heat?

 

[Rowdy1]

Inside

I mounted my 6AL box in the passenger side interior, up under the dash. Out of sight, out of the weather. Easy to get to if I want to install a different rev limiter chip also.

 

[tomtom72]

Hi Bobchad, What about where chevy put the TI boxes in the 70 &71 LT-1s? I believe it was up under the driver's front fender, past the hood opening, but behind the left headlight? I would think that Chevy would have thought about cooling air flow and protection in choosing that place? tt72

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Lou, I'm trying to keep it out of the interior because it just makes more work but that is an option if nothing else works. I can reach the box to change the rev limiter if need be fairly easily from underneath.

Tom, I looked in those corners as well but with everything in, and maybe a 77 has more stuff due to more government controls for impact resistance, etc. I definitely couldn't get up there with my hands.

Coupeman, is this behind the overflow bottle? I've got a bunch of a/c stuff there including a big box for the a/c coils that don't allow it to go there.

I think it is going to work there. I initally had it on the bottom of the bracket but read the installation manual one more time and found that it can be hung anyway but upside down. I was able to get it above the bracket and it sits there like original. It is up where it can't block air flow and is out of the "weather."

I'll take another shot at it next weekend, the weeks are just too hectic, and run the wires that go to the distributor and make sure they reach. The other wires can be extended but I'm not sure about these as they have connectors on each end.

 

[norvalwilhelm]

I mounted mine inside the car, under the dash in the passengers side but I don't have air or even a heater. I actually mounted 4 of them under the dash. It keeps them clean, away from heat but the side effect is if you car is really quiet the box tends to have a noise, hum comming form it that you might become annoyed with.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I read your previous posts about 4 boxes. Nice setup but boy would I hate troubleshooting any ignition problems. :L

 

[norvalwilhelm]

I read your previous posts about 4 boxes. Nice setup but boy would I hate troubleshooting any ignition problems. :L

I did run into a problem but suprisingly each box can be checkout out quickly by just disconnecting one wire and tapping it to ground to make the ignition fire. Quickly found the problem to be the pickup in the distributor.
I don't like mechanical advance in our distributors. Too unreliable to repeat its self. Almost never returns to zero.
The MSD electron advance curve is completely accurate, is all in by 3000 and has a 20 degree retart. Couldn't ask for more.

 

[Rowdy1]

Easy To Get To

I read your previous posts about 4 boxes. Nice setup but boy would I hate troubleshooting any ignition problems. :L

It's as easy to get to as the circuit breakers, just on the passenger side, I don't have air or a heater either and with my exhaust, I don't need to worry about a hum.

 

[Hib Halverson]

In front of the radiator is exactly where I have my MSD6T...basically the same ign. but without the built-in rev limiter.

I also have electric fans on my C3 and I had already run an 8ga power wire up to the front of the car, so powering the ign was pretty easy. I, also, used one of MSD's big filter capacitors to reduce noise that goes from the ign. amp. into the car's 12v power lines.

Putting the MSD up in front of the radiator gets it as far from the car's sound system as possible which is a good thing considering MSDs, from an RFI standpoint, are min-arc welders.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Hib,

Funny you should mention that. I am considering putting in the dual Spals at some point and was considering running a heavy gauge wire up front from the battery into some type of distribution box. I've seen these things where a heavy gauge wire goes in and then there are several posts to distribute the power. How did you do yours? Pictures if you have them please.

Rowdy,

I saw the burnout video from last year. I'm not surprised that you don't hear the hum. :L

Bob

 

[tomtom72]

Not thinking

Hi Bobchad, Sorry about not thinking before engaging typing fingers! I had a 72 and there was nothing up there but the headlights, just goes to show ya what govn't regs do to our cars. Mr. H.H. gave me one to tuck away, thanks Mr. H. I guess I'll add that to my list of things to do after I get mine. tt72

 

[GTR1999]

Bob,
The MDS box is over the RF tire area in front of the reservoir tank. The coil is mounted on a 45* where the old vacuum can was on the chrome C3's. The car doesn't have a/c.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I have the box in place and just need to drill the holes in the bumper bracket.

I ran the ignition pickup wires to the drivers side of the car, through a space to the left of the radiator and down the existing wiring harness. It's about 1 foot too short.

I went to the MSD site and did a search and found post by a fellow with a 75 Corvette who was having the same issues about location and wire length who was told by MSD to mount it in the front and that the wires can be extended within reason. The book says to use 10 gauge wires when extending the power wires and 16 gauge for all other.

I'll need to pick up the wire tomorrow on the way to work. I may be slow but I eventually get it finished. I think its a subconscious thing. I just like to hang out in hardware stores and by not getting al the parts the first time, I get to go back over and over again. :L

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Bob,
The MDS box is over the RF tire area in front of the reservoir tank. The coil is mounted on a 45* where the old vacuum can was on the chrome C3's. The car doesn't have a/c.

Coupeman, I tried that but it was too close to the moving parts of the suspension for my comfort level. I'd love to see a picture of yours in place if you can post one. Bob

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I bought the necessary wire. One thing about the 16 gauge wires. I had a heck of a time finding any. Part of the problem is that I wanted to match the color on the box and all I could find were black and red. Seems that 16 gauge is not a common household wire so the hardware stores don't carry them. Eventually I found that NAPA had a very good selection, with all of the colors that I needed.

The MSD book says to solder. The electrical guy at the hardware store says to use the new fangled electrical compression connectors as they make a better connection. Any thoughts.

I also bought the shrink insulation to place over the splices.

 

[cwerve74]

Solder with shrink wrap. This will give you the best reliability. Never a question about the mechnical crimp or oxidation. This does require some skill. I would use a low wattage iron 25-50 watt pencile looking iron. Make the splice linear but twist the wire so it overlaps. A picture would be good here. Check this link for the pictures. http://www.explosivelabs.com/articles/soldering.shtml
The web has everytthing. Just be sure the solder flows like water around the wire. It should look shinny and flat. Not like a bubble on a good wax job.
Atfter you add the shrink wrap it will look very natural.

You need to finish this project so I can hear your results. I am just 3 months behind you. When you did your power steering last winter I used your insight to make mine perfect. Now I want to do an MSD box and am waiting you you to get it done. Good luck.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks for the info.

I have been posting a lot of my projects here lately: sometimes because I have questions, other times just to get all of the research I have done in one place so others will have an easier time finding things. Glad that last years steering project was of help.

I liked Hib's idea of running an 8 gauge wire up to the front for future power use off the battery but am struggling with what to use up front. I have seen posts were people have just used junction boxes I have also seen the Painless auxillary fuse blocks that look pretty sweet. If I am going to put the dual spals on their they will need a switched source of power and this might be the way to go.

Have you ever done anything like this?