The first picture show's a resistor i found hidden deep inside a pile of wire's. It was connected to the wire's leading to the key resistor input and ground on the central control modul. Clearly someone has been here before. Anyway, i ohmed the resistor to 1600ohm. Which doesn't suit the resistor tabel.
So i used a resistor with a screw that i could rotate 10 turns to alter the ohm from 300 to 11500. See the second picture.
When i came to 6500ohms though, i had a case, because it didn't function after 6500ohms and the vette hadn't started yet :ugh. Luckiliy for me a friend of mine, a educated electrician, came by. Wanted to see the Corvette. I told him of my problem as well, and he examined the first resistor and told me it's suppose to be 1400 pluss- minus 10% ohm. Once found out, i screw the resistor to 1420ohm. But it didn't start. I instantly disconnected the anti-theft relay and jumped it. It started and it didn't stop
So it was both the relee and the previouse installed resistor that was the problem.
I have a '96 vette that I just replaced the ignition switch. When I turn the key nothing happens at all. The only thing that appears that I hadn't notice before was a "brake sys. pressure' light appears. Is this an indication that the VATS sys. is not working. Thanks for any help.
MiMitch,
The new key must have the same resistance chip as the old key, in addition to the grind matching the new tumblers. So, you likely need a blank key having the same resistance as the old key. Then have it ground to match the new tumblers.
The alternative is to bypass the VATS as Tobben described above. But that's a nice feature to keep active.
Good luck.
PS The dealer may be your only source for a blank and may be able to determine the # (resistance) of the old key. In my area, there's a very well equipped hardware store that carries a full array of GM key blanks - even a full set of VATS blanks. Check around.
1984 Z51 Silver/Gray & as Much SS & CFibre we find
That certainly is a lot of work and some smart thinking.
If anything I learned that if I had a Vette with VATS and a working key I'd run out right away and pony up the $ for an extra key!hnoes
Thanks for the help. The ignition switch that I replaced was the one on the lower steering column. Like I stated, when I turn the key nothing happens. No noise from the starter or any-where else. The only thing that comes on is a "brake pressure" warning light, that I've never noticed before.I was wondering if that is a sign (code) that the VATS sys. isn't working.Do the code readers, that you can borrow from Murray's auto supply, give out "codes" for all electrical problems?
Again thanks for all the help. MiMitch
Below is a link to a VATS bypass. While it is not the best solution (less security) it may help until you get a correct key. Vats resistance goes up to 15.
I used one on my 1987 until I could get a new key cut. I now keep it in the car in case of an emergency (key read doesn't work and can't wait for resets or until I get home to get my spare).
Got a call from a Vette owner and he said it may not be a VATS isuue at all. He suggested that I check the wires on the starter solenoid for corrosion. I hope to try that this weekend, weather permitting. Again thanks for your help, MiMitch
If you have a VATS key problem a call to AAA will take care of it.
I had the resistor fall out on the road long ago. The AAA locksmith had a key with a reisistor switch bank. They cut a steel blank and just trial and error until the car starts. Once it won't start the VATS has a 5 minute timer. Once he figured it out he made a new key on the spot.
I've seen the key blanks at Ace hardware stores.
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