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Need help pricing some parts for a 66 vert

Islander

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2003
Messages
141
Location
Florida
Corvette
1966 roadster
I'm looking at a 1966 vert basketcase to restore (bring back from the dead, really) and in order to price it correctly I need some feedback on pricing and availability of:

1- Convertible top frame
2- Seat frames
3- Headlight bucket assemblies (minus the motors)

I understand that the top frames sell for about $1.5 to $2K new but would like to know if these are readily available at events such as NCRS and other Corvette gatherings, and how much would a restorable frame should go for.

I have no clue as to price and availability for the seat frames and headlight bucket assemblies and need lots of help there.

I am also in the market for used fiberglass repair manuals and videos, any help there would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Islander
 
I noticed your post on the other forum as well as here, I will respond here,

First :CAC Welcome


Second the info you were given there is accurate

Third, how much is the person asking for the car and what else is wrong with it, that might help to determine how good a deal the car is, and how much work you want to put into the car.

Try looking at Vigmans thread here as to the joys of bringing back a car that has just sat for awhile.


Tom
 
Thanks for the welcome, Sting66ray.

This particular vette has been sitting outside for a while now. It is only a shell though the seller has a repairable frame which is not included in the deal.

Things it's got:

The gauge cluster, the console, new dash pads, the windshield, one side vent window assembly, rocker panels, rear light assemblies, doors, windshield wiper motor, main wire harness.

Things it's missing (expensive ones):

Seat frames, headlight buckets, soft top frame, radio, steering column, hood (it's got a 67 BB hood that I hope he will replace with a 66BB hood that's got a hole in it.)

It's got flares all around and it's missing the front turn signals but the seller will throw in repair panels for all, he may also throw in the gas tank and radiator core support off the rolling chassis. The shell seems to be in good shape, it's currently in primer.

Why do I want this nighmare? Well, my plan is to build a hybrid driver, I'll purchase a tube frame and add C4 brakes and suspension and a RamJet 350 or ZZ4 mated to a 5-speed Keisler tranny. What I want is for the body to retain its classic look, the only change would be for safety's sake (shoulder harness, for example).

This body is priced at about $8K, but because of the missing parts I can't offer more than $5K as I have seen true rollers go for about $10-12K with all the parts I require. I'd turn around and sell the frame and do the same again. Problem is I'm in Florida nd the ones I've seen are in the west coast. So tack another grand to the price for transportation. This one's within driving distance.

I'm willing and able to do most of the work on it, so the cheaper I can get the body (within limits, of course) the better off I am. This project will either cure my dementia or enhance it - either way it's a win-win situation. :s
 
You might want to look at EBAy, there is a '67 body for sale there now for a couple of hundred, might be a better starting point for what you want to do. It is listed under 1967 corvette AO Smith body, why buy the parts you dont need.


Happy Hunting,

Tom
 
Thanks,

Ooooo, that auction is already up to $305!!!
 
Hey, Sting66ray,

Take another peek at that same ebay search and look for the 1965-66 body selling out of Georgia. How much do you think that is worth? How much would the price change if it were to be a splice between two cars?
 
I don't seee that body, whats the title or description.


Tom
 
I would say 2 or 3 grand, it is worth that just to sell the clips and doors.


Tom
 
I have talked to a few people locally who have picked up convertible tops for a few hundred at swap meets. They drove the car topless for a year or so while shopping.

Seats are a double edged sword. Lots of money for the "correct" look, and no comfort after spending the $$. I use a set of old Recaro (aftermarket) seats that I had previously used in three Hondas. They are VERY comfortable, and I was able to install headrest speakers - so that I can hear the stereo at ANY speed. A lot less $$ and old 80s Tbirds and HiPo Mustangs got them as optional seats - check local junk yards. Speaking of steros, Imy wife paid big $$ to get me a cassette stereo many years ago. A few years later I got a brand new replacement for $20 at MidAmerica's Funfest swap meet area.

Bargains are out there. Patience is required.

Check out the seats at the Details link of my homepage (shown below). My car came (mostly) in 27 large boxes. A lot of stuff was missing (crossmembers, trans, interior, horns, distributor, exhaust lines, etcetera).
 
Thanks for the feedback, magicv8. Nice car, BTW.
 
My $.02....if $5k for this deal is financially equivalent to a $10-12k roller, then why not buy the roller? You would be a year or two closer to having a drivable car (I'm assuming you'd work on it nights and weekends) for the exact same money. Save yourself the trouble and buy the best car you can afford.

Of course at the end of the day it's your call! :-)

Andy
 
Andy,

The reason I am leaning towards buying just a shell and not a roller is because I want to run C4 suspension and brakes on the mid-year shell. That means that I will purchase a tube frame and refurbish front and rear C4 suspensions to add to it, I'll also get to add rack and pinion steering.

Remember, I am not a numbers guy. I just want the car to look classic but to drive better. If I got a roller I would just sell the frame and suspensions and buy the new frame anyway. If I decide to keep the original frame I would still get the Vette Brakes full suspension package and add power steering. That is actually more expensive, after refurbishing the old frame, than getting a new frame that accepts C4 parts (including being able to use wider tires).

Yes, I get the ocassional "well if you want it to ride like a C4 then buy a C4" comment, which I always ignore. In the end I will probably be rescuing a non-NCRS, almost gone mid-year frankenstein car and making it shine - at least for me.
 
Truly amazing!! The VIN-less 67 tub that needed everything sold for $1500 and even more puzzling is that the VIN-less 66 shell sold for $4000. Someone placed that bid with about 3 minutes left, doubling the previous high bid!!

Goes to show that there are quite a few born every minute. :J Those are two happy sellers who got their reserves. I wonder if they'll be victims of dead beat bidders again. :(
 
The '67 tub probably sold just to get the birdcage - none of those parts are reproduced, and they're almost impossible to find any more.
:(
 
Well, I finally got my shell!!! It's a '66 vert that needs lots of TLC. I have mapped out a 5 year project and will be starting soon with some body repairs. First off is to repair/protect the birdcage, then repair some tub damage and finally I'll move to the body panels. I'll figure it will take me 8 months to a year to take care of the body/fiberglass in order to leave it in primer ready to paint. I'll start on the new frame, brakes and suspension in year two.

In the meantime I'll check out a couple of gatherings to find a BB hood, headlight bucket assemblies and seat frames.

Oh, I did join NCRS and will be joining my local club and I already spent money at Eckler's (an hour's drive away) getting a book on how to repair fiberglass... I'll be asking lots of question from now on.
 

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