need to get a mini starter, but I need some help....

[firstgear]

there are mini inline starters and all kinds of starters. I am not sure what starter to order. Here is my mounting location on the McLeod scatter shield.

But all the mini starters look like they come mounted on blocks?????? like below, "inline"

OR "offset"

Can anyone help me sort this out? I know I have 168 tooth flywheel, but don't know exactly how these buggers with these blocks on them mount. Does it matter if the block comes off and then it mounts directly to the flywheel?

What does "inline" versus "offset" mean.

Nothing is ever easy.....please share your thoughts....

thanks, Herb

 

[IH2LOSE]

looks like its a universal sheild

That starter should work. You still mount it to the block.

you see all of the bolt holes (in the front where it mates to the sheild ) that is so you can rotate the stater to fit

 

[wallyknoch]

Those high dollar aftermarket mini starters are made from 4 cylinder starters. A better and wiser choice would be to buy a late model GM V6 starter and it will bolt right up and be trouble free.

 

[magicv8]

there are mini inline starters and all kinds of starters. I am not sure what starter to order. Here is my mounting location on the McLeod scatter shield.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-820323-os.jpg

Can anyone help me sort this out? I know I have 168 tooth flywheel, but don't know exactly how these buggers with these blocks on them mount. Does it matter if the block comes off and then it mounts directly to the flywheel?

What does "inline" versus "offset" mean.

Last question first: Your engine (pictured) has a "stagger bolt" pattern that the Summit people call "offset". The original GM starter used two special bolts to mount to the engine block. Some GM engines use a staggered bolt pattern and some are drilled and tapped so the starter mounting bolts are centered on a single line perpendicular to the crank/cam centerlines. GM clutch housings do not have the array of bolt holes that the one in the engine picture has.

Aside from wanting a lighter starter, why don't you want to bolt the standard GM starter to the block? I have a 168 tooth flywheel on my 66 with an 11 inch clutch set up using a rebuilt long/HD GM starter from Oreilly. Good service, lifetime warranty, and a good price.

The block on the front of the Summit starters is the mounting block. There is no other way to mount the runt starters if you remove it. Starters on these old cars mount to the block or the clutch housing. Since you have an aftermarket clutch housing, you can pick which way you want to mount the chosen starter. If you use a GM starter made for that engine block, it uses 2 special serrated bolts to mount to the engine in a staggered bolt pattern.

 

[WayneC]

Here's how it looks to me:

If I'm looking at your picture of the scattershield and block correctly, I can see 3, no, make that 4 holes in the bottom of the block just this side of the scattershield...two are aligned just a bit inboard of the scattershield, and two are a little farther away; whch of them are threaded holes? (I'm guessing 3 of them but maybe only 2: the ones closest to the scattershield and the one farthest from the scattershield) That may give you a clue as to which vertical hole pattern on the proposed starters is the correct pattern.

If 3 of the holes are threaded, I'd say you have a choice of either of those starters, and if that's the case, I'd probably opt for the starter with the offset block. I'm also assuming that the scattershield has nuts welded behind the 3 holes around the larger round opening, and at least one of them should align with the starter block, such that after you bolt the starter block to the engine block (using the special serrated bolts mentioned), you rotate the starter body until a hole in a tab on the body lines up with a hole in the starter block that is also lined up with one of those scattershield backing nuts... then thread a bolt through the starter body tab and the starter block and into the scattershield nut to lock the starter body so it can't rotate.

 

[firstgear]

got it!!! thanks everyone.....your comments really helped a lot!!!! I understand now.....

thanks, Herb

 

[BarryK]

Herb

you really don't need a starter.
Think of it this way....... if you don't buy a starter you save weight on the car, save money on the cost of the starter, and save a LOT of money on what you would spend on gas for the car - especially with gas prices as high as they are now you will save a bundle by not buying a starter!

 

[firstgear]

Herb

you really don't need a starter.
Think of it this way....... if you don't buy a starter you save weight on the car, save money on the cost of the starter, and save a LOT of money on what you would spend on gas for the car - especially with gas prices as high as they are now you will save a bundle by not buying a starter!

I was thinking about putting a Model T motor in with a hand crank starter, doing some research on larger flow heads for it and perhaps a fuel injection set up. The hand crank is a big feature to me.