Video: New engine startup

[ChrisR8C]

Strated up the new engine yesterday. It fired on the first try and ran for about 3-4 minutes then had to shut it down because of fuel and water leaks. I corrected the leaks, and started again about 1 hr later. This time ran it for about 10 minutes. It was going fine until the upper radiator hose blew off of the water neck shooting the coolant everywhere.
The question I have is, do I have to run this for the full 20 minutes in 1 shot or continue where I left off?
My gut is telling me to start the 20 minute cycle again. I really don't want any camshaft problems.
What are your thoughts?

 

[Rex S]

Strated up the new engine yesterday. It fired on the first try and ran for about 3-4 minutes then had to shut it down because of fuel and water leaks. I corrected the leaks, and started again about 1 hr later. This time ran it for about 10 minutes. It was going fine until the upper radiator hose blew off of the water neck shooting the coolant everywhere.
The question I have is, do I have to run this for the full 20 minutes in 1 shot or continue where I left off?
My gut is telling me to start the 20 minute cycle again. I really don't want any camshaft problems.
What are your thoughts?

Cam breakin is only required for non-roller cams so if it's a roller cam you are OK. If it is a flat tappet, yes start the clock again and hold it at 2-3000 for 30 to 40 mins. Also if it's a flat tappet use a breakin oil that still has zink in the mix.

 

[yellow77]

Just and FYI, they are now recommending engine oil specified for diesel engine use for an engine with a flat tappet cam. This guarantees you will have enough Zinc in the oild to protect the camshaft. Also, I have been in your situation, and yes, restart the clock, and as long as you were holding the rpm's up when it was running, then there will be no harm done.

Cheers

Richard

 

[ChrisR8C]

Just and FYI, they are now recommending engine oil specified for diesel engine use for an engine with a flat tappet cam. This guarantees you will have enough Zinc in the oild to protect the camshaft. Also, I have been in your situation, and yes, restart the clock, and as long as you were holding the rpm's up when it was running, then there will be no harm done.

Cheers

Richard

I had the engine filled with 10-30 diesel oil and comp cams break in additive and the rpm's were at 2200 at the time.
I will replace the hose, refill with water and start the process again.

Thanks

Chris

 

[Vette79]

I had the engine filled with 10-30 diesel oil and comp cams break in additive and the rpm's were at 2200 at the time.
I will replace the hose, refill with water and start the process again.

Thanks

Chris

When your done do an oil change. Geez, this brings back memories of my break-in. I took a video of my break-in and it could be helpful if you want it. Just PM me...

 

[ChrisR8C]

When your done do an oil change. Geez, this brings back memories of my break-in. I took a video of my break-in and it could be helpful if you want it. Just PM me...

I watched your video a while back. It was helpfull. It did bring back memories for me as its been about 10 years since I've done this. It helped me double and triple check things before turning the key.
Should I change the oil after the 20 minute break in or after the 1st 500 miles?

 

[JohnZ]

Should I change the oil after the 20 minute break in or after the 1st 500 miles?

I always change the oil and filter after break-in; there's always some level of dirt, particulates, shavings, etc. cut loose during break-in, and you want to keep them out of the bearings.

 

[TimAT]

I'm with JohnZ here. At the very least, do your initial break-in, drive it around the block a couple of times, and change the filter. Better to change the oil AND filter, but at the least the filter.

 

[baxsom]

Just and FYI, they are now recommending engine oil specified for diesel engine use for an engine with a flat tappet cam. This guarantees you will have enough Zinc in the oild to protect the camshaft. Also, I have been in your situation, and yes, restart the clock, and as long as you were holding the rpm's up when it was running, then there will be no harm done.

Cheers

Richard

i am pretty sure that all new rated diesel oil has very little zinc in it anymore. rotella used to be awesome but the newest rating according to virgin oil samples over at the bobistheoilguy.com site shows 800ppm. thats not near enough. you are better off with the break in specific oils like brad penn

 

[73shark]

GM used to have a high zinc supplement called EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). Don't know if they still sell it tho.

 

[Rodney Gold]

Use a bottle of the comp cams stuff with every oil change.
Just an aside - why did the radiator hose blow off?
Just a bad clamp or not tight enough?

 

[JohnZ]

i am pretty sure that all new rated diesel oil has very little zinc in it anymore.

Nope. The newer 15W40 CJ-4 diesel oils (like Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, etc.) have 1100-1200 PPM of ZDDP/phosphorus, which is more than adequate to protect any OEM flat-tappet valvetrain. If you have an aftermarket cam and Gonzo valve springs, that's a different ball game.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Everything a Corvette owner needs to know about flat-tappet camshafts, engine oil for them and break-in is right here on your Corvette Action Center at:
Corvette Action Center | Tech | Engine Oil Deep Dive - CAC's Comprehensive Look at Engine Oil and Flat-Tappet Camshaft Durability

 

[ChrisR8C]

Use a bottle of the comp cams stuff with every oil change.
Just an aside - why did the radiator hose blow off?
Just a bad clamp or not tight enough?

Not really sure why the hose blew off. I suspect that it was a pressure build up. I made a mistake and didn't top off the radiator when I started it. ( was worried about fuel leaks,timing, etc.)
Anyway, I re-did the break in period again this past weekend. All went well. I do have some small coolant leaks to fix, but its running great. The next step is to see if the hood will fit. I think it will but the 14 inch round filter will have to go.

 

[Big Tom]

Here is some good stuff to buy. I put some in my Harley with every oil change.

 

[Hib Halverson]

Do not use that oil additive in your engine.

Lucas Oil's product information on the web page cited specifically states "Not designed for passenger car engines".

Additionally, if you select the correct oil to start with and use the cam manufacturer's breakin lubricant, you do not need any other additives.

 

[Big Tom]

Do not use that oil additive in your engine.

Lucas Oil's product information on the web page cited specifically states "Not designed for passenger car engines".

Additionally, if you select the correct oil to start with and use the cam manufacturer's breakin lubricant, you do not need any other additives.

It says that because the extra zinc is bad for the cats. That is why most of it has been removed from motor oils.

 

[JohnZ]

It says that because the extra zinc is bad for the cats. That is why most of it has been removed from motor oils.

It also generates a mixture with 5,000PPM of ZDDP when you add one 16-oz. bottle to 4.5 quarts of oil, which is WAY excessive and opens up a whole different set of issues. :eyerole

 

[73shark]

Stopped by the Mobil 1 booth at SEMA and picked up a spreadsheet w/ their oil specs. The zinc level varies from 900 to 1850 ppm with the higher levels in their racing oils.