No More Buying Power Window Switches

[Nut]

Fellow Shark pilots, I made a marvelous discovery today. After crapping out my third Power Window switch I decided to take one apart to see what was making it fail. Lo and behold....... the only thing that is failing is the small circuit card in the switch is getting loose. Once the board drops even the slightest amount, the switch contacts can not meet, thus closing the circuits and either raising or lowering the window. The fix is a snap and took a grand total of 5 minutes.

The switch has a metal housing (or at least it should have one). The circuit board is (supposedly) held in place by having the inside tabs of the housing slightly bent inward. This is (supposed) to hold the board in place. Over time and use, the board can become pushed down. All I did was locate the board in the proper place, get some Super Glue Gel and very lightly dap around the edges of the board/housing. Once dry, take a SMALL hammer and tap the tabs in a little more to hold the board. The firmness of the switch lever immediately returns and the switch will function perfectly. You may also want to carefully clean the copper contacts once the switch is apart. Reinstall and voila!!! One working power window switch.

No more $39.95 switches from the aftermarket houses. Any problems or questions, feel free to email of pm me and I'll be happy to assist.

I am a happy camper tonight.

............ Nut

 

[The Car Whisperer]

I always say - if it's already broke why not take it apart! You can't make it any worse. Many times all it takes is a simple fix to save a part like that.

 

[compyelc4]

Don't you feel like a freekin' genius! Feels good doesn't it. I remember doing something like that on my old Monte Carlo SS. Seems the dealer replaced 5 backup switches. The car was only a week old. I finally got curious too and found that their was a plastic mold injection "burr" keeping the pieces from sliding properly. A little sandpaper and voila. I mentioned it to the dealer but they preferred to replace the things instead for the money they were getting. Really??................

 

[69MyWay]

Great info Nut! I noticed the same thing, and quickly sat down and drew up my plans as well. I used the quick set JB weld on the back side to make sure the board sat tight.

However, even with that, my passenger side switch did not last more than maybe 25 cycles!!!! I called Paragon Reproductions and made them aware of it. They said they have had tons of problems with these. I ordered a third one and asked somebody there to personally check it out before it left the building to make sure the lower tabs were dimpled nice and tight.

The replacement switch looks great! Works great too. I am mailing the first one back to them for inspection, but I realize they are already aware of the problem.

Thanks for the info!!

 

[Nut]

Yeah it was a nice end to a hot day. Those *&^*% switches ain't cheap, but now that I see how they fail, it ****es me off that like Chris said, a little Super Glue/JB Weld would solve the problem completely. Instead they cheapen them up just enough to get you shelling out $40 every 6 months. Never more!!!!!!

Sometimes life is good........... Nut

 

[c4ever]

Nut:The fix is a snap and took a grand total of 5 minutes.

Nothing seems to take me five minutes:L :L :L

Carlo

 

[Nut]

Carlo..... I didn't say it took me 5 minutes to get the sucker out!! Unbelievably I have to remove BOTH seats and dismantle the center console to remove either of the two switches. Takes about a 1/2 hour (now that I'm really good at it). But to fix the switch was literaly 5 minutes. I should go into the switch fixing business.

............. Nut

 

[deckboy]

Getting the switch out?

Nut says it took him a while to get the console out. Is there an easy to get the console out or just the switch without the console? I don't know where to start with the console removal.

 

[Vette79]

Been there and done that already. The problem I found was bending the tabs back in place. These switches can definitely be repaired. Sometimes the contacts just need to be cleaned. Good Work. Hey NUT, maybe we will get a chance to cross paths sometime since we are so close???

 

[mkapp7879]

Wow, is this an old thread brought back to life!
The bent over tabs sometimes break off. Just use a hammer and screwdriver to stake over anywhere along the sides where the tabs were.
On my 79, I successfully removed the switches without removing the console. The attaching screws are I think 5/16" hex. A small wrench from the side.

 

[Elliott]

Switch Issue

mkapp7879,

Wondering how you removed the switches without removing the console? I haven't looked really close at my 79 console, but all I see are 4 screws around the shifter opening. Are there screws behind the carpet on the side? My driver switch activates the window easily going down, but going up the contacts must be bad because I really have to lean on it to make contact. Dave

 

[mkapp7879]

Take off the carpeted side panels, 3 screws each side. 1 towards each end and the middle screw is next to the seat. Might need a 90 degree screwdriver to get it or if you've had your cushions out and find that easy to do it will help to reach that screw. A small open end or box wrench should reach the window switch screws from the side.

 

[Elliott]

I will check that out and use the information above to try and clean/adjust the contacts. Thanks for your help! Dave

 

[Elliott]

Take off the carpeted side panels, 3 screws each side. 1 towards each end and the middle screw is next to the seat. Might need a 90 degree screwdriver to get it or if you've had your cushions out and find that easy to do it will help to reach that screw. A small open end or box wrench should reach the window switch screws from the side.

I finally got around to trying to get to my driver's side power window switch. I was surprised to find the carpet glued to a thin fiber board running along side the center gauge panel. You mention 3 screws, but I didn't find one towards the front under the dash. Are the two remaining screws along side the parking brake console? Are you suggesting that once I remove the side panel that I can unbolt the switch without removing the center gauge panel? I just want to make sure that I am not taking something apart that I don't need to. Dave

 

[mkapp7879]

The 3 screws hold the fibreboard panels that the carpet is attached to.
You kinda got to search for them as they're burried in the carpet nap.
Move the seat forward and look a few inches forward of the bulkhead. Then right next to the seat bottom cushion, and forward under the dash.
You CAN get the window switches from the side.
Regardless, the first step to accessing ANYTHING under the console is removing the carpeted side panels.

 

[Elliott]

The 3 screws hold the fibreboard panels that the carpet is attached to.
You kinda got to search for them as they're burried in the carpet nap.
Move the seat forward and look a few inches forward of the bulkhead. Then right next to the seat bottom cushion, and forward under the dash.
You CAN get the window switches from the side.
Regardless, the first step to accessing ANYTHING under the console is removing the carpeted side panels.

The screws must be located on the bottom edge of the panel and I admit I was looking for them on the top edge. Just need to tear it out and worry about regluing the carpet later. Thanks for your help!

 

[mkapp7879]

Just need to tear it out and worry about regluing the carpet later.

Uh, OKotfl
The carpet does not need to be removed from the panels!

 

[Elliott]

Uh, OKotfl
The carpet does not need to be removed from the panels!

OK, I get it. The bolts are on the bottom. What I understood was that when I removed 3 bolts on the side, the center instrument panel could then be removed to access the switch. So logic suggested to me that the bolts would be on the top; not the bottom, which is why I began peeling the carpet down to find them. That's obviously not the case.

You know, for first time vette owners things aren't as clear and obvious as they are to those of you that have worked on them and understand them inside and out.

Regardless, thanks for your help.

 

[mkapp7879]

Get your fingers up under the lower edge of the carpeted panels and lightly tug.
The way it flexes may help you locate the screws.
I'll take some exact measurements later today.

edit.....
OK, here's where you SHOULD find the screws,
Both ends, 2" in from the end, 4 1/2" down from the top edge.
Center one, in line with the 'change tray', about 2" down from the top edge.

 

[Elliott]

Get your fingers up under the lower edge of the carpeted panels and lightly tug.
The way it flexes may help you locate the screws.
I'll take some exact measurements later today.

edit.....
OK, here's where you SHOULD find the screws,
Both ends, 2" in from the end, 4 1/2" down from the top edge.
Center one, in line with the 'change tray', about 2" down from the top edge.

Found them, as you suggested, buried in the carpet mat. Ended up removing both seats (pretty easy, actually), both side carpet panels and removed the screws on both sides of the console giving me just enough room that I could get underneath to remove the switch. Just as indicated, the circuit board was loose and I've glued it tonight and will reinstall tomorrow. With everything removed, I'm thinking I should also remove the passenger side switch so if it fails in the same manner I don't have to do this all again.

It can be intimidating going into a project blind. I appreciated the extra information and am optimistic I'll have it reassembled and operational tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help!