noisy lifters

[bobbyg63]

can anyone out there shed some light on how to quiet noisy lifters?
I own a 1963 fuelie that has solid lifters. The car runs great, but just recently I decided to reset the lifter clearances. I've gone through the adjustments with the engine hot twice and the lifters seam awfully noisy to me. I set them to specification, .008 intake and .018 exhaust. Are all solid lifter cars this noisy? Is there some trick I'm missing in setting the valves. The method I used was right out of the Crane Cam Manual, where the exhaust valve begins to open and you adjust the intake then when the intake almost closes, you adjust the exhaust. I did this and then rechecked my work, and still there was clatter. Any suggestions?

 

[Tom Bryant]

Without hearing your engine it's hard to tell if they are more noisy than normal. If you aren't used to hearing solids they are quite noisy. Those of us that grew up with them think of them more as music. It sounds like your adjustment proceedure was ok and as long as there are no bent pushrods, broken valve springs or damaged rockers they are probably just doing what solids do.

Sorry I can't be of more help. If you drive it up to CruiseFest next month I'll be glad to check it out for you.

Tom

 

[65stinger]

Try JOHN Z's procedure of setting them cold not running. I have the 327/365 with solid lifters and set them about a week ago. I'm not sure if it's worked yet due to the stage of restoration I'm currently undergoing, but everyone on here says that it works like a charm. It's listed in the tech center portion of this forum.

 

[bobbyg63]

Thanks Tom for the quick response, I'm pritty sure I've done it right, and its the normal noise of solid lifters. I do have one more question? Is their any way you can use a hydraulic lifter on a solid lifter cam. If not, why not. Thanks Bob

 

[Tom Bryant]

Sure it's been done but not the best way to go about getting the engine quieter. First it is never a good idea to put new lifters on a used cam. A cam lobe and it's paired lifter wear in together and establish a certain wear pattern. Almost like a fingerprint. If lifters are switched during a rapair or a new one is put on the used lobe it will wear differently and quite often results in the lobe dissappearing into metal particles in your pan and oil filter.....and bearings. The hardened surface is very thin and once it is worn off the lobe wears quickly.

A new lifter can often be used as a repair for a damaged lifter if it is first scuffed with 400 grit emery so it can establish it's own pattern with the cam. This should be done only if you need to replace a bad lifter during a repair. Results not guaranteed.

As for using new hyd. lifters on a new solid cam, that would be counterproductive. Solid lifter profiles differ from hyd. grinds. If you really want to loose the solid clatter the best thing to do would be to change the cam and lifters together to something well matched to your engine. To stay with close to the same exhaust sound and performance I would suggest the 327/350 hp L79 cam. It is cloned by Crane, Comp Cams, Federal Mogul and others and also still available from GM Performance Parts. A better choice might be to call Comp or Crane ect. and ask for their recommendation on a modern profile cam and kit from their current offerings. You will pick up power across the rpm range (area under the curve), manifold vacuum, and probably even drivability and mpg.

Unless your engine is fairly fresh I would also install the recommended valve springs for the cam and do a 3 angle valve job to get everything right up to snuff again.

One other thing to think about is that if you are doing any NCRS shows the judges will listen for the solid lifter clatter. Personally, I love the Duntov cam and the solid clatter.

Tom

 

[wallyknoch]

Good advice Tom, but still can`t beat a solid lifter engine like you stated.