Oh Crap! I pulled the steering column apart!!!

[69MyWay]

Okay, really not that big of a deal, but it looks a mess. I have done this before, but it has been a while. My brother is an ASE, etc. etc. etc. fellow and is bringing over the upper lock ring tool so I can re assemble with ease.

I have some play in my column like most do at the tilt section. The pins and bushing hole area look great and are tight. I am guessing I have very loose bolts. He is also bringing me an inside star (I think 5/16") socket and wobble to give them a little more torque.

I bought a new horn ring kit from MAD, and I had to rotate my wheel 180 degrees. So, might as well do it all while I am waiting on the dipstick.


Fun fun fun.

 

[69MyWay]

Another angle of the nightmare.........


Would you guys like a step by step shade tree instruction on how to get to this point and back out?

 

[RalleyRed]

Chris,

Getting to that point is real easy for me!:duh

It's putting $hit back together that kills my projects.

All kidding aside I just noticed your fiberoptic lens, are those stock? They don't look anything like my 68 and I don't remember my brothers 69 looking like those either.
I imagine yours show up lot better.

Rick

 

[topless82vette]

on a tilt/telescopic what causes it to wobble mines loose is it a relatively easy fix also all my telescopic stuff is missing and wheel slides out and its real irratating can it be made stationary any way

 

[wicky88s1975]

Chris,
Where did you pick up those Gauges? I decided that My car won't be able to go stock all the way , so I was thinking of going all the way out.

 

[69MyWay]

Chris,

Getting to that point is real easy for me!:duh

It's putting $hit back together that kills my projects.

All kidding aside I just noticed your fiberoptic lens, are those stock? They don't look anything like my 68 and I don't remember my brothers 69 looking like those either.
I imagine yours show up lot better.

Rick

Rick, my Fiber Optics, are really 12v LED bulbs courtesy of Radio Shack Since I went hog wild and replaced the entire wire harness on the whole car with a modern style (push in fuses, etc), I removed the optics and gave them to TZracer. Plus, my autometer gauges don't have blinkers and high beam built in. So, I wired the center there to indicate the blinkers, high beam, and E-brake/brake failure.

The upside is, they do look cool. The down side is they won't tell me if a bulb has failed like the fiber optic would.

I made the three rear ones to indicate tag light and rear brake lights in the same fashion.

Oh yes, they are nice and bright.

 

[69MyWay]

Chris,
Where did you pick up those Gauges? I decided that My car won't be able to go stock all the way , so I was thinking of going all the way out.

Those are autometer pro comp ultra light series. What is really cool is they are 100% electric including the speedo, so no more noisy bouncy jumpy cables.

The speedo was a snap. One igntion on wire, ground, lights, then a ignition 12+ and ground down to the screw in unit on the trans (screws right in where the cable did), and it feeds a signal wire back to the gauge cluster. It is programable no matter what speedo gear you have in the tail shaft or tire size. It has trip and odemetor, in LCD digital readout in the lower center.

Oh yes, and when you turn the key on, it does like a C5, the gauge sweeps across to the 160 mph mark, then gently sweeps back down to zero. It is way cool.

 

[wicky88s1975]

Oh Also , since we're talking about steering here, Mine has been modified some where along the way. The Tele parts have disappeared and an aftermarket steering wheel has taken it's place. Does the tele operate off the tilt lever. I noticed a locking lever in the engine compartment next to the fire wall. It looks like it had a pull wire attached to it. I can't find anything in the assembly manual that tells me where this wire goes from there. Does it travel the steering column in to the pass. compartment and what does it hook up to? Hope I've been clear Thanks for any info. I got the service manuals yesterday and I'll start searching that. Thanks again. Wicky

 

[69MyWay]

I could be wrong here, but I think what you are seeing is the remainder of the lock out portion that would lock the car in gear if put in reverse and the key turned off and removed (if a stick shift). Most people yanked these off years ago.

The tele has a shaft within a shaft. There is a rod that goes into the main upper shaft. As you twist the lock lever, it applies pressure to the inner rod locking the tele shaft in place.

So far, the parts look pretty generic. I would think you might do well to go to an older style junker junk yard that has 70's, 80's cadillacs. I think you will find the tele mechinism on those used the same inner guts.

Otherwise, a good part of this is still available new at a hefty price.

 

[topless82vette]

hmmmm shaft inside a shaft what do you think Im going to try LOL can you say weld .... maybe a small tack weld will cure this then as I hate the telescopic anyways

 

[69MyWay]

Found out I am missing the upper plastic and metal ring that goes on right before the steering wheel. It makes electrical contact throught he locker ring for the horn.

I will have to call around today and see if they are still available. Otherwise, I will have to make one.

Topless, You will find that you can pull the tele shaft all the way out of the main housing. You will see it has a rod inside and it pushes on a key way that is cammed so to speak in the lower portion. When you twist that little lever that locks the tele, the bolt in the center of that lever will go in or out applying pressure to that little rod which causes it to push out on the key way and lock it or release it from position.

I guess you could weld it in place. However, the parts should be out there.

BTW, for those of you doing this in the future, or attempted in the past and gave up because you could not get the horn locker ring tool to actually apply pressure so that you could remove the c-clip because the tele portion kept sliding out....listen up.

You need to get a 1" x 5/16" x 18 bolt. Cut the head of the bolt, then cut a sideways groove in the top with your hacksaw like you are making a screwdriver slot.

Now, screw this in the end of the tele shaft with the shaft in the position you desire. Tighten it until it locks the shaft. Now, slide your horn/locker ring tool over it, and go to town.

Would pictures help?

 

[Ls1smlblck]

Yes! I have the same prob with my Tilt wheel.

 

[chuck]

Also in the keyway is a Shaft Locking Wedge Bumper. It is about 3/16" dia. x 3/16" long. It is very easy for this piece to fall out and not see it. The Shaft Lock Rod pushs on this bumper and it moves the Locking Wedge to lock the tele. If this bumper is missing the tele will not lock. Dr. REbuild has them for $2.50 part #6521178. Chuck

 

[sac001]

Chris,

On the upper Horn Contact, check with the local Chevy dealer, I got one there when I first got my car, couldn't believe they had it in stock!

Steve

 

[69MyWay]

I just found out local jobber source for repairing recovered theft steering columns has them for $10 a piece. I sent Nikki there today to pick one up.

I was planning on checking the dealer next.

 

[rpounds]

Chris,

Is that a Sony X-Plod I see in the dash there? What are you running for power amp and speakers?

 

[69MyWay]

Yep, it is a X-plod 50x50 with a Rockford Fosgate 500 watt amp with active cross over. The radio pushes the front and rear mid/tweat infinity speakers, while the RF 500 Punch pushes the twin 10" MTX subs in the rear box.

It sounds okay. Not like you can really make anything out at 70 mph with the top down and side pipes screaming. At least it will give you a decent back massage.

 

[rpounds]

At least it will give you a decent back massage.