Help! Oil substance in '65 body

[Gene's'65]

I removed the old, bad paint using a single edge razor blade on my '65 cpe. I noticed 'wet' spots especially on the front end near the firewall. A local friend, that is quite a perfectionist in the restoration of Corvettes, recommended that I use TSP to absorb the substance. I applied a coat of the TSP and let it set for approx 7 days then rinsed it off. The substance would re-appear after drying out for several hours. I repeated the above steps probably 10 times and thought the substance was out until it was placed in a warm shop and it re-appeared. Ecklers recommended to use 40 grit and take the surface down to the resin. I applied their Gelcoat and in certain areas the wet spot bleed thru. Can anyone offer words of wisdom. I have heard this in not a unique problem in the mid year bodies.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Welcome to the CAC

I have not ran into that before. I'll be interested to see what others have to say.

Tom

 

[JimVette]

Years ago I had the same problem with my '66. It was only on one fender and showed up only after the car was stripped before painting. The guy used liquid stripper at the time. I had the car redone about 10 years later with the emphasis on getting out the oil that seeping through the paint. The guy was never successful, and he was a Corvette body guy. The only option I had was to replace the fender. Good luck!

 

[Gene's'65]

I was really hoping to avoid replacing most of the front end since my car is a no-hit body. I sure do not want to proceed and not remove or seal properly this substance and then later the new primer & paint blister. It makes me wonder if this substance is the mold release agent that was used when the front end panels were first formed and now this substance is bleeding out?

 

[JohnZ]

It makes me wonder if this substance is the mold release agent that was used when the front end panels were first formed and now this substance is bleeding out?

It's more likely that it's brake fluid, which is usually the cause of that kind of problem. I'm not aware of any sure-fire way to draw it out of the resin.

 

[Gene's'65]

Oil substance > Brake fluid

Someone mentioned that it could be brake fluid but with the different locations and then again there were two small spots on the roof which went away after using the TSP then I ignored the possibility of the brake fluid cause. If it happened to be brake fluid, then the hood would be a victim but yet the hood does not have any 'wet spots' like the drivers and passenger side of the fender. I am still at a loss on what to use to remove the imbedded fluid. I really hate to replace panels and take away the unblemished past life of the front end of the car.

Any one else throw out any other methods to remove the imbedded spots?

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

Many years ago I restored a friends '72. He had started to take it apart for the resto. Then he married and moved to his new home where the car sat in his old garage. The hood was stripped to the bare 'glass and he had laid the A/C compressor ON THE HOOD and the refridgerant oil leaked into the hood leaving an oil spot in the 'glass about 10" in diameter. So, I needed an answer too. I went to my paint supply store and they gave me this chemical that I was supposed to use to wet the affected surface and let it "pull" the contaminent out of the 'glass, rinse with clean water and repeat as many times as needed to remove the stain. It worked perfectly. Years later I saw the car and there was no trace!

Having the need for that product again now on my '62, I needed the name of it, but I had long forgotten it. So, I asked a friend of mine who used it on his car with good results and he happened to have some left over. So he gave it to me. I haven't used it yet, but I know it definetly worked for him because I remember the whole story of his problem.

The name on the can is "TOTAL PREP" made by mar-hyde with a part number of 3223. The label states that it removes oil, wax, grease, poly silicone products, road film and other contaminates from painted metal surfaces, vinyl, leather, and rigid as well as flexible plastics.

Check it out.


Joe M.

 

[Gene's'65]

Total Prep

Thanks Joe for the recommendation. My paint man will be thrilled to hear of a known solution. He and I would very much like to be able to remove this oil substance and proceed with the primer and etc. I live in the outskirts of Chattanooga and will call around to the local auto paint stores to try to locate this product or maybe able to do an internet purchase. Thanks again !!

 

[Gene's'65]

3M has discontinued the Product

Joe....I called 3M today and since they have acquired Mar-Hyde, they have discontinued the Total Prep product. I am now back to the 'Ole Drawing Board' guys on what to use.

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

Help! Oil substance in '65 body

Hello Gene,

Boy, that's not good at all. I only have a small amount left. I'm in trouble too. Good luck to each of us, then.

Joe

 

[Ajetsprt]

I did a quick Google search for the product and it looks like there are a few places that have stock left over for sale. Good luck

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

Help! Oil substance in '65 body

I was planning to work on that project this summer, but it looks like I'll, at least, have to look for more of that product while there may be some left.
It never fails, whenever you find a product that works, it winds up being discontinued!!!

Good luck to you, as well, Gene.

Joe

 

[porch dog]

i clean fiberglass bodies with dawn soap . first cleaning on an oily spot i use straight soap the soap and water. you need an oil dispersant instead of a solvent which will dilute it and soak it in further. the dawn will lift the oil. when dry seal up good with epoxy . i do the same thing with metal cars after blasting.

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

Thanks porch dog. At this point, I'll try anything.

Joe:ugh

 

[Gene's'65]

Update from Gene

Since the oil bleed thru the Eckler's Gelcoat; I took a DA sander with 80 grit paper and took the Gelcoat off the surface down to where you could see the fibers. I felt like this was my only choice since apparently the gelcoat did not seal the oil. The local PPG paint shop recommended to brush another coat of the Gelcoat on the car but limit it to an area only 12" x 12". If it does not bleed thru and lays down this time, then smooth the surface and follow with a product like primer surfacer. I did read an artlcle that recommended to use the PPG DP Epoxy primer to seal the surface. I know from previous experience on a sand blast metal car of which I sprayed epoxy primer and then followed it with acrylic enamel....after 10 yrs the surface still looks wonderful. I am still open to suggestions on what product to use to remove the oil.

 

[BIDFORPARTS]

Wow Gene,
You are on a mission. Down to the fibers? You are a better man than I.
I sure hope you NAIL this problem. (Then I can do what you did----maybe). Seriously, if you score a solution to this unpopular problem, there will many out there that will be in your debt, professional and novice, alike!!!! Keep us informed and good luck.
Joe