Oily Question.....Friction VS No Friction..

[Viet Nam Vett]

Ok... So when I go to fire up my 502 for break in....Should I use Mobli One..Or Non Synthetic..?

Since Mobil One is a super duper lub and prevents any kind of ware..is it the correct lub to use since you do want the parts to ware an seat in. Or should I go with the Fred Flintstone oil from the ground??

And here's another quirey....:confused ..Since my 502 has a roller cam... Why do I have to break in the motor anyway?? I was told that the Roller Cam doesn't care about break in..

So Heaven...What did you use??


Ok Gentelman....Let the Great Oil Debate Begin.....:L

 

[Dean Barker]

I would use regular Mobil 5W-30, drain after 50 to 100 miles, refill with same new oil and new filter, then drain after about 2000 miles, change filter and refill with 5W-30 Mobil 1.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Mark,

I just noticed your question. I started with Quaker State Pure Synthetic. Now that I have 50 miles, I draining it out and replacing with Quaker State dino (also changing the AC Delco 1218 filter) until 500 miles when I'll go back to Synthetic.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Actually you don't need to run in a new cam with roller lifters. You can even replace cams and re-use the old lifters. They don't rub on each other (lifter and lobe) so don't need to establish a wear pattern. The rings do need to seat in and this won't happen properly with synthetic. Run in your engine with dino juice and then change to Mobil 1 at the first oil change. I like to run in a new engine with a straight weight non detergent oil like 20w20 then drain the oil and change the filter after the run in proceedure is done and I set the tune ect. About 1 hour total. Then change to the regular oil I'm going to use. I would run at least one full oil change cycle on conventional oil before changing to synthetic to make sure all of the parts get to know each other.

Mybe someone can answer this question. It seems I read someplace where GM spins engines to seat in the rings and cam if necessary by driving them from the crankshaft before they are crated or sent to the line. This way you can just get in the car and go as we know most people do when they buy a new car. Anyone else ever hear of this?

If they do this to crate engines too all you would have to do is stick it in and go.

Tom

 

[JohnZ]

With properly-honed bore surfaces, modern moly-faced OEM rings seat in less than five minutes of running time. Engines aren't "hot-tested" in engine plants any more, and haven't been for many years; the first time they're hot-fired is when the car is started and driven off the line. They're "cold-tested" on computerized stands that rotate them via an electric drive on the crank pulley at low rpm; the exhaust ports are sealed with air pressure/velocity probes, the throttle body is sealed with more sensors, all coolant openings are sealed, probes are installed for oil pressure, the crankcase is sealed with sensors for vacuum/pressure, all coolant and oil passages are pressurized with sensors to read any decay, and the crank is rotated by a hub with torque and velocity sensors. The crank drive is computer-controlled, and is rotated at three different low-rpm speeds, comparing torque required against pre-set limits, and 42 other operating parameters are compared against pre-set values during a one-minute test.

The test results are displayed on the monitor, and a "green screen" says it's OK; here's the computerized cold-test stand and monitor on my Viper engine line, which is typical of the test stands used in other modern engine plants.

 

[BlackNBlue95]

How did you get those pics?
-=Rick

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

With properly-honed bore surfaces, modern moly-faced OEM rings seat in less than five minutes of running time. Engines aren't "hot-tested" in engine plants any more, and haven't been for many years; the first time they're hot-fired is when the car is started and driven off the line. They're "cold-tested" on computerized stands that rotate them via an electric drive on the crank pulley at low rpm; the exhaust ports are sealed with air pressure/velocity probes, the throttle body is sealed with more sensors, all coolant openings are sealed, probes are installed for oil pressure, the crankcase is sealed with sensors for vacuum/pressure, all coolant and oil passages are pressurized with sensors to read any decay, and the crank is rotated by a hub with torque and velocity sensors. The crank drive is computer-controlled, and is rotated at three different low-rpm speeds, comparing torque required against pre-set limits, and 42 other operating parameters are compared against pre-set values during a one-minute test.

The test results are displayed on the monitor, and a "green screen" says it's OK; here's the computerized cold-test stand and monitor on my Viper engine line, which is typical of the test stands used in other modern engine plants.

Thanks John...

Very Cool...I wonder if the General has a rig like that at the 502 Crate Motor pLant..??

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks John. I knew you would know. It's even more high tech than I imagined. So is the bottom line that you can just fire up your GM crate motor and go?

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

How did you get those pics?
-=Rick

Jonn Z was the Man At the Viper Plant....Cool Huh...???

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Mark,

I just noticed your question. I started with Quaker State Pure Synthetic. Now that I have 50 miles, I draining it out and replacing with Quaker State dino (also changing the AC Delco 1218 filter) until 500 miles when I'll go back to Synthetic.

Thanks There Johnny Feaver... Long way from fire up but good to know.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

I would use regular Mobil 5W-30, drain after 50 to 100 miles, refill with same new oil and new filter, then drain after about 2000 miles, change filter and refill with 5W-30 Mobil 1.

Thanks Dean...

 

[JohnZ]

How did you get those pics?
-=Rick

Rick, I was the Viper Plant Manager for six years, and we built our own engines, from the bare block, on-site. BTW, that computerized cold-test is so accurate that it can identify a scored or dirty bearing not only by cylinder (or main) number, but by whether it's the top or bottom bearing shell. Same thing with rings - it can identify which ring is bad. You don't take any chances with an expensive rotating assembly like this (yup, that's a crank scraper in the bottom photo):

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks John. I knew you would know. It's even more high tech than I imagined. So is the bottom line that you can just fire up your GM crate motor and go?

I dunno, Tom - an extensive packet of instructions comes with the GM crate engines that includes break-in procedures, maintenance, etc., but I haven't seen one.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

Mark -- How about an update on the progress.

 

[BlackNBlue95]

Thats BAD AZZ!!! I think that would be a pretty cool job...
-=Rick

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Mark -- How about an update on the progress.

Ok John.........Here's the Update..Spent this past Saturday And Sunday tareing stuff off the 65 for body removal. Most of it's done except a few items. Rob Will be over 12/22/04 to trailer the car back to his shop for the body to come off.


Man I'm gald I put the heat in the garage. After we rip off the body and mount it on the dolly..the body returns to my garage while the chassie is striped and goes out for media blasting. Then back to Robs for paint and mounting the suspension Parts.

Some where around this I'll yank the SB Yokes and insatll the HD Yokes in the diff. Then ...Drop the 502 in and return the rolling chassie to my garage after I move the body to another friends house till the chassie is ready to drop the body back on.

So the body will travel to three different spots before rejoining the chassie.. What a pain. But I only have a one car garage...so that's how it has to happen.

 

[JL66REDCPE]

Mark - sounds like a pretty solid plan. I know the three different stops is tough however it will be worth it when you are finished. I would like to come over this week (22nd) to help but it is end of year for us and we are trying to close every potential deal we can before Christmas.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Mark - sounds like a pretty solid plan. I know the three different stops is tough however it will be worth it when you are finished. I would like to come over this week (22nd) to help but it is end of year for us and we are trying to close every potential deal we can before Christmas.

Heh Thanks for the offer....Cool.. I think will also be wrenching on the 23rd to finish up. If your up to it let me know. It would be fun hanging out listening to you and Rob bantering back and forth...

 

[Tom Bryant]

I dunno, Tom - an extensive packet of instructions comes with the GM crate engines that includes break-in procedures, maintenance, etc., but I haven't seen one.

Thanks John,

I guess the bottom line is to open that packet of instructions and follow them to the letter to protect the warranty.

 

[Vette66AirCoupe]

My wife has a BMW 545. She says she needs a "granny car" with 4 doors and a back seat for our granddaughter. Well anyway, BMW is putting synthetic oil in at the factory and telling folks to bring them in for their first oil change at 15,000 miles, yes fifteen thousand.