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paging Mad-Mic!

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newbie88

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Mic, just wanted to say i've been real impresssed with the track numbers you've posted before. i was wondering if you'd be willing to share a tip or two on how i could get my car to do something similar. i've got an '88 stock 4+3 and believe that your 13 sec run would whoop me out of the water. i guess i just like the fact that you run great times and are esentially stock(if you still are.) how stock is stock? anyway, even if my ride doesn't post the big HP numbers, i hope to put all the power it does have to the ground to leave most other cars in the dust. can ya help a brother out?

*sorry if this should be posted in another forum.
 
first of welcome to :CAC: and thanks for the kind comments about my ride :D



best thing to do is read my cardomain site on page 1 in my sig at the bottom of this post.



these are just guestimation #'s and don't factor in weather conditions and track conditions. i only dynoed the car once and at that time with a few less bolt on's she pulled 245 rwhp and 350 rwtq. thats about 50 hp and 70 lbs of torque over the factory rating at the crank of 240 hp and 340 tq. i'm also an auto so take 20% as a power loss due to friction through out the drivetrain. remember my stock times were on average 14.5's with a best of 14.24 at about 98 mph



cut lid K&N, descreened MAF, TB Bypass, 160 t-stat, 12 degrees advanced timing, ( play with your timing not all L98's like 12 degrees advanced.) Accel Super coil, no mufflers and spare tire delete. the car went a 13.7 at 101 mph



added a catless front Y pipe, gutted cat and the car picked up to a 13.26 @ 103 mph with a best 1.813 60' time.



all these gains was in a 2 month period starting in september and running thru the end of the season in december.



spring time last year i added a set of TPiS long tube headers and dynoed the car for the first and only time. the numbers aren't correct but close enough for a base line. the car was over 220 degrees water temp and the EGR line on #8 cylinder blew on the first and only pass on the dyno. i thought it was a header gasket and wanted to be safe and not burn a valve up. personally i think the car would of pulled 30-40 more rwhp and maybe 50 more lbs of rwtq knowing how the car runs when i hot lap it at those temps i lose over 2 tenths so if 2 tenths in the 1/4 mile is 20 rwhp add that to no back pressure on #8 cylinder and thats what the car would of and should of pulled. ran it at the track that spring and couldn't get her dialed in the only time i went to the track. weather was 65 degrees and about 700 DA.



over the summer i added a few more mods.

crank pulley, air elim pulley, cut back AC Delco Rapidfires, and drag radials.



crank pulley = 10 rwhp

air elim pulley = 5-10 rwhp

cut back plugs = 10 rwhp

drag radials on a stock 1600 stall and 2.59 gears? who knows what it will do for my 60' times.



ran the car this fall and didn't do so good :( was fighting a code 36 and don't have access to scanning equipment. so the car was running super rich and i slowed up and went a best of 13.18 @ 103 mph with most runs being in the 13.3's at 101 mph. i think the car should of went a 12.8 at 107+ mph in the cooler weather. 45 degrees and -1500 DA.



one trick i do is cool the car all the way down. i use ice bags on my intake and like to stage the car at 130 degrees. on street tires or DR's i run from 18-22 psi depending on track prep. i also shift between 4900 and 5100 rpm and no more.



hope this helps,

Mic





newbie88 said:
Mic, just wanted to say i've been real impresssed with the track numbers you've posted before. i was wondering if you'd be willing to share a tip or two on how i could get my car to do something similar. i've got an '88 stock 4+3 and believe that your 13 sec run would whoop me out of the water. i guess i just like the fact that you run great times and are esentially stock(if you still are.) how stock is stock? anyway, even if my ride doesn't post the big HP numbers, i hope to put all the power it does have to the ground to leave most other cars in the dust. can ya help a brother out?

*sorry if this should be posted in another forum.
 
:beer

Always good to see a "stock" vette putting up those #'s!
 
Mic, that was awesome! a wealth of information and certainly enough for me to go by. that fact that your hitting those numbers without going internal gives me a good deal of hope. many thanks. i hope to be back soon with a longer list of mods of my own and be able to scream down the track with good times. cheers!
 
newbie88 said:
Mic, that was awesome! a wealth of information and certainly enough for me to go by. that fact that your hitting those numbers without going internal gives me a good deal of hope. many thanks. i hope to be back soon with a longer list of mods of my own and be able to scream down the track with good times. cheers!

:beer
 
Mad-Mic said:
crank pulley, air elim pulley, cut back AC Delco Rapidfires, and drag radials.

What kind of crank pulley did you install, did you have to buy a different cerpentine belt or can you use the stock one. Also are you planning on putting underdrive pulleys on your car?
 
Just curious about the timing advance as I have basically the same setup with the same mods on my 88.
Were you running the stock Chip when you advanced the timing. I have a Hypertech installed and plan to expirement with the timing and wondered if you had any words of wisdom. I believe Hypertech run some pretty agressive advance already so I don't know what my upper limit would be. Currently I am running slightly above 6 BTDC.
 
I wouldn't think that hypertech would change the advance curves. I would think there would be some liability, and some danger for certain engines. I think hypertech is pitched for mostly stock cars.
 
I wouldn't think that hypertech would change the advance curves. I would think there would be some liability, and some danger for certain engines. I think hypertech is pitched for mostly stock cars.

The truth is advancing the timing is one of the easiest ways to eek a little more performance out of an engine. I realize this might not be possible on some of the modern engines but it seems to work well on most small blocks I have owned.
The reason I know that Hypertech does this is because a guy in their tech support group told me so. I have a 150 HP Shot Nitrous Kit that I was about to install along with a MSD Digital 6 Ignition Control Box. THe Digital 6 box has an input that you can use to back off the timing at WOT, which is a good thing when you are running Nitrous on a mostly stock engine. I was curious how much the timing was already being advanced so I could choose a starting point. He would not come right out and tell me the exact degrees but he said the curves were "agressive" and that I should start by setting the ignition control box to back the timing off at least 5 Degrees at WOT and work from there. Have held off installing the Nitrous and the MSD Digital 6 till I make sure everything is in order and I have eliminated any error codes or variables that might plague the tuning after the Nitrous/MSD install.
 
I should add the the Hypertech guy could have been shootin me a line of BS but he sounded like he knew what he was talking about.
Also the Limited Warranty has the following wording along with the general stuff.
Hypertech's liability under this warranty shall be limited to the prompt correction of replacement of any defective part of the product which Hypertech determines to be necessary. Doesn't really say anything about rebuilding your blown up small block because the user did something he maybe shouldn't have. Don't get me wrong I'm not bad mouthing Hypertech at all, I like what their chip did for my L98.
 

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