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Painting screw heads flat black

joshwilson3

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I'm looking at painting some screw heads and other various brackets in flat black. I was thinking of using a primer as I figure that would stick better than a flat black color paint.

Any recommendations? I'd like something that sticks well to metal in a flat black that won't chip off. If it has UV protection, then that is a plus. I wouldn't really need it, but the screws in the fender wells may see some sunlight.

I'm looking to just use a spray can.

I was thinking of Rustoleum, or maybe the Krylon. I know Rustoleum has flat black grill paint. I don't know if that would work for screw heads. I just don't want to paint them, then have to do it again later on. If there is any rust, I'll probably first use that Rustoleum stuff in a can that converts the rust to a black primer before I paint those items.
 
I'm looking at painting some screw heads and other various brackets in flat black. I was thinking of using a primer as I figure that would stick better than a flat black color paint.

Any recommendations? I'd like something that sticks well to metal in a flat black that won't chip off. If it has UV protection, then that is a plus. I wouldn't really need it, but the screws in the fender wells may see some sunlight.

I'm looking to just use a spray can.

I was thinking of Rustoleum, or maybe the Krylon. I know Rustoleum has flat black grill paint. I don't know if that would work for screw heads. I just don't want to paint them, then have to do it again later on. If there is any rust, I'll probably first use that Rustoleum stuff in a can that converts the rust to a black primer before I paint those items.



Go to your local auto paint store and get SEMS trim black.

This is what the factory uses for the blacked out parts of the exterior of most cars.

It is designed to work outside and has great adhesive properties.
 
Testors flat black enamel paint pens work well if you aren't looking for an OEM perfect solution.
 
I'd need something from a spray can. It is easier than painting all the parts with a pen. And I'll also be painting some small bracket type pieces as well.

Ahhh... you're painting a lot of stuff at once. Ok- that makes sense now.

At first I thought a spray can was a little overboard for a handful of screw heads. I understand now- broad area, brackets, etc. SEMS is best for what you want to accomplish.
 
I used Dupli-Color Caliper spray paint on the intake and water pump. I plan on doing the center areas of the valve covers and the CORVETTE letters on the pop-off injector covers too. Went with blue to match the Moroso Blue Max plug wires. It has ceramic and good to 500F.

I then used VHT High Temp (1300-2000F) on the exhaust manifolds and baked them in my kitchen oven (no wife to complain, LOL). 30 minutes first 250F, then 400 then 500 with a 30 minute cool down in between.

I just did it a few days ago and the engine's not back in the car yet, so I don't have any feed-back.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
 
I also noticed on the crank pulley on the top at the base by the timing mark thing. That it looks like there is a seal that goes around the base. Part of it is broke off and sticking out. I hope everything works fine when I get it all put back together.

That's a BAD sign. I believe what you're referring to is called the elastomer material. If it's broken that's a sign of the balancer/damper beginning to fail. It's a common issue as our engines get older. At some point the failing material will allow the outer ring on the balancer/damper to move/spin and possibly fly off.

I've seen them "explode" at the race track and is the reason why so many tracks now require approved balancers/dampers. I believe they have to meet some SFI spec to be approved for racing.

I suggest you begin to budget for a new one. Until then, watch your R's.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
 
You will need a puller to get the damper off.
THen you'll need an installer to put the new one back on.
Both removal and replacement can be done with the engine in the car.
 
Either of those will work ok as long as they are the same diameter as the original one.
There's not much room between the harmonic damper and the frame on our Vettes.
 

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