PKE Problem

[mylt4]

I know this subject has been discussed many times, but I seem to have yet another issue with the PKE on my 96. I purchased a new key fob and have followed the specific directions (many times) but have yet to have the key fob work. I go through the program procedures and get to the "blinking" PKE on the DIC and wait, and wait and wait and after a couple minutes the PKE light goes out. Turn the key off, walk away from the vehicle and the doors lock. BUT, when I go back to the vehicle, the car does NOT unlock, nor can I unlock passenger door or the hatch. This now is the "SOP" for both the original "old" key fob, and the newly purchased key fob. I've also checked and replaced the 5A fuse in the PKE slot of the fuse box.

I'm looking for some suggestions on what to try next.

PS: I just finished installing new carpet, could there have been a connection that I could have pulled or disconnected? I did a quick visual but don't seem to find anything.

:confused

 

[mylt4]

Just to keep pounding the heck out of this problem. I completely took apart the key fob, took out the battery and re-inserted the battery during the program setup. This did not work. PKE never senses the keyfob.

The "twilight zone" part is with the key fob apart, with the battery in one hand the key fob in the other and I walk away from the car, the horn beeps and the doors lock. No cell phone in my pocket or anywhere in the garage, no electronics. Maybe I'm posessed.

 

[KOPBET]

I know this subject has been discussed many times, but I seem to have yet another issue with the PKE on my 96. I purchased a new key fob and have followed the specific directions (many times) but have yet to have the key fob work. I go through the program procedures and get to the "blinking" PKE on the DIC and wait, and wait and wait and after a couple minutes the PKE light goes out. Turn the key off, walk away from the vehicle and the doors lock. BUT, when I go back to the vehicle, the car does NOT unlock, nor can I unlock passenger door or the hatch.

I'm a little confused by your description. You indicate that you "turn the key off, walk away from the vehicle". If you are following the procedure correctly, the key would already be off. Also, you say you get to the get to "the "blinking" PKE on the DIC and wait, and wait and wait and after a couple minutes the PKE light goes out" but this isn't how the programming procedure is supposed to flow. Are you bringing a fob IN range after having it OUT of range when this is going on? Please elaborate.

The "twilight zone" part is with the key fob apart, with the battery in one hand the key fob in the other and I walk away from the car, the horn beeps and the doors lock. No cell phone in my pocket or anywhere in the garage, no electronics. Maybe I'm posessed.

I'm assuming that you are removing the battery from the fob while next to the car so this is exactly the results I would expect with a working fob. You also said that you had two fobs in the first post but then in the second post you talked about having only one in hand.

I guess I'm just not clear on exactly how you are doing this.

I presume that you already have the correct programming procedure but it bears repeating here.

1. Move all transmitters out of range.
2. Turn the key on.
3. Push Trip ODO on the DIC twice.
4. Withing 5 seconds press and hold Fuel Info until the Passive Keyless Entry light comes on.
5, Turn the key off. Leave the key in the ignition. PKE light should begin to flash.
6. Bring ONE of the fobs into range. The PKE light will stop flashing and stay on indicating the code for that fob is stored.
7. Move the transmitter out of range. The PKE light should start flashing again.
8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 with the other fob.

If you do not program a fob for two minutes the programming mode will end.
Do not turn the key on or take the key out of the ignition.

 

[mylt4]

I have two fobs, but focusing on just the new one. I tested the old one when the new one wouldn't work and the old does not function either. I am following those exact procedures. What I meant was when the PKE light goes out after about 2 minutes, I remove the key from the ignition and get out of the car, closing the drivers door and when walking away from the car, the horn blows and the doors lock. The procedure I was following:

1. Leave the new key fob inside the house, away from the garage.

2. Turn ignition on, but don't start car.

3. Push combination of buttons that brings up the PKE light on the DIC

4. Turn off igntion, but did not remove key.

5. Run into house and get key fob.

6. walk around the car, sometimes twice, get in car, wave fob in front of driver door and towards rear of car where the two antennas reside.

7. After a couple minutes, PKE light goes out, but key fob never recognized.

8. Remove key from ignition, get out of car and shut driver door. Walk away, car locks and sounds horn. Key fob does not work to unlock, manually unlock driver door, which sets of alarm.

FYI: I tried various ways with the key fob, one included removing the battery while in the house and then once I was in the car with the PKE light blinking, I reinserted the battery, hoping for a "jump start" with the transmitter.

Hope that clarifies, and sorry for such a long winded message.

 

[KOPBET]

5. Run into house and get key fob.

6. walk around the car, sometimes twice, get in car, wave fob in front of driver door and towards rear of car where the two antennas reside.

7. After a couple minutes, PKE light goes out, but key fob never recognized.

Tell me this,

At a point between 5 & 7 the PKE light should transition from blinking to on solid. This indicates the fob is being recognized. Then take the fob out of range and it should start blinking again. Is this not happening and therefore what you mean by "never recognized"?

 

[mylt4]

That is correct. The PKE light never stops blinking, it just eventually times out and goes blank. Never a solid light.

 

[KOPBET]

Wow. That sucks!

Do you have a friend with a vett to check your fobs? Are the batteries known good? Inspect battery fit and contact condition. Do you use the driver door key much? You might try cycling the door lock from unlocked to locked repeatedly a few times.

Check codes:

Take the fobs out of range.
Put the key in ignition, do not turn on.
Locate the DLC connector under the dash to the right of the column (above your right knee).
Ground pin 8 to pin 5. The PKE light should begin to flash a code, i.e blink-pause-blink-blink-blink then repeat, which would be code 13.

List of static codes:

12 Receiver memory bad (replace receiver)
13 Transmitter not in range (normal)
14 Non-valid receiver in range (fob not programmed)

Functional codes.

15 Valid transmitter received. (bring fob in range and shake it, you should get this code)
16 Passenger door button pressed. (press the door button and get this code)
17 Hatch button pressed.

What codes do you get?

 

[mylt4]

Following your procedure of grounding pins 5 and 8, I get code "13". I also disconnected the car battery for about an hour this morning, just in hopes that something would reset. But alas, no change. I've also changed out the 5A fuse for the PKE just in case. This too provided no change. Just went through the programming procedures, again, and as usual as I shut the door and walk away, the doors lock. key fob doesn't work, but the doors lock, and sets off the alarm when I manually unlock the doors. Oh well, back to the garage to keep trying.

 

[Vettelt193]

the main unit in the dash is known to fail. I would put money on yours being dead


The other down side is they are a real PITA to change. I had a broken unit on my '93 and just opted to use the key.

Even my '96 I just use the key, it is a PITA to me if you don't drive the car every day, the dang thing locks and unlocks all the time, and I would disarm the system, then forget to lock the car half the time. When I do it manually all the time I just know what I am going to get

 

[Zixxer]

I had what sounds like exactly your situation and I had to replace the PKE module behind the dash. Found one on eBay for $100 and my problem was resolved.....I too had bought a second transmitter thinking the problem was on that end.

 

[KOPBET]

Following your procedure of grounding pins 5 and 8, I get code "13". I also disconnected the car battery for about an hour this morning, just in hopes that something would reset. But alas, no change. I've also changed out the 5A fuse for the PKE just in case. This too provided no change. Just went through the programming procedures, again, and as usual as I shut the door and walk away, the doors lock. key fob doesn't work, but the doors lock, and sets off the alarm when I manually unlock the doors. Oh well, back to the garage to keep trying.

I'm assuming you still get the code 13 even with the fob within range? If so, then I would say the previous couple of posts are right on.

 

[hot coatings]

PKE Module

Where is this PKE module located? Would the module being out also not let the fob open the hatch??

the main unit in the dash is known to fail. I would put money on yours being dead


The other down side is they are a real PITA to change. I had a broken unit on my '93 and just opted to use the key.

Even my '96 I just use the key, it is a PITA to me if you don't drive the car every day, the dang thing locks and unlocks all the time, and I would disarm the system, then forget to lock the car half the time. When I do it manually all the time I just know what I am going to get

 

[Rabbit]

Following your procedure of grounding pins 5 and 8, I get code "13". I also disconnected the car battery for about an hour this morning, just in hopes that something would reset. But alas, no change. I've also changed out the 5A fuse for the PKE just in case. This too provided no change. Just went through the programming procedures, again, and as usual as I shut the door and walk away, the doors lock. key fob doesn't work, but the doors lock, and sets off the alarm when I manually unlock the doors. Oh well, back to the garage to keep trying.

This is a shot in the dark. The PKE module has 2 other fuses that are combined with the radio & the DIC & door lock switch. Might be worth checking them. They are no's. 40 & 42 on the pass/side fuse box. If the radio & door locks are working it would eliminate that possibility, but you never know.