Radiator Recommendations?

[USNA1969]

A new thermostat and a flushing hasn't helped the overheating problem in my '72 BB. I see that there are aluminum, copper, and brass radiators available, but I have no idea which would be best or why. I don't have a/c. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[petes74ttop]

Runs Hot

Before you buy a new radiator here's a few things to check:
Spoiler under car
Radiator seals
Correct rad cap
shroud
fan clutch
how old is the water pump
lower rad hose has a spring in it. PG.

 

[Vette79]

x2. Also, do a search here on the forum. This has been addressed several times. Some good info available.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

If you do determine that it's the radiator and that it's beyond repair, replace it with an item identical to the type installed by the factory. The best manufacturer/vendor is DeWitts. Everything else is a second rate substitute that may/may not do the job.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I'm not sure I'd agree with the above.

First, if the car is to be kept original or is a restoration, then, obviously a copper/brass radiator is the best way to go.

However, if the car is modified and originality is not a concern but cooling performance is, then the only choice is an aluminum radiator.

There are a number of sources for modern aluminum replacements for C3 radiators. DeWitts is a good one but there are others who can match DeWitt's quality. I have a Griffin in my 71 and it's worked pretty well since I installed in in the late 1990s.

Vettehead Mikey's statement that "Everything else is a second-rate substitute." cannot be backed-up by fact. Again, DeWitts generally makes a good product, but there are others out there, too.

Lastly, before sinking serious money in to a replacement radiator, take heed of the suggestions above from "petes74ttop".

 

[rascal_rascal_99]

DeWitts I would bet would have a direct fit replacement aluminum radiator...of the types of metal they are made from, aluminum is going to be the best for cooling properties.

 

[gmjunkie]

I'm not sure I'd agree with the above.

First, if the car is to be kept original or is a restoration, then, obviously a copper/brass radiator is the best way to go.

However, if the car is modified and originality is not a concern but cooling performance is, then the only choice is an aluminum radiator.

There are a number of sources for modern aluminum replacements for C3 radiators. DeWitts is a good one but there are others who can match DeWitt's quality. I have a Griffin in my 71 and it's worked pretty well since I installed in in the late 1990s.

Vettehead Mikey's statement that "Everything else is a second-rate substitute." cannot be backed-up by fact. Again, DeWitts generally makes a good product, but there are others out there, too.

Lastly, before sinking serious money in to a replacement radiator, take heed of the suggestions above from "petes74ttop".

Agreed!!

 

[minifridge1138]

A also agree.
Check the usual suspects.

If that doesn't solve your problem, I personally recommend the DeWitts radiator. My car used to hit 240+ on a spring/fall day. Now I can drive across texas in July with AC on and I barely touch 200.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

You're correct that if originality is not a concern, a quality aftermarket aluminum radiator (in your case Griffin) is an excellent choice.

The essence of my message was to suggest that the OP does not make the typical mistake of taking the 'cheap' route of buying a one size fits all brass radiator from a on-line catalogue. Second guessing what GM designed is rarely a good idea.

There's enough posts floating around on 'that other ' board from people who tried it with poor results.

 

[USNA1969]

Before you buy a new radiator here's a few things to check:
Spoiler under car
Radiator seals
Correct rad cap
shroud
fan clutch
how old is the water pump
lower rad hose has a spring in it. PG.

Thanks very much for the input. I checked the spoiler, radiator cap, shroud and fan clutch, and they're fine. The pump is new.

I'm not sure I get "radiator seals". I don't see any leaks and I don't smell coolant. And it looks like there's nowhere for the air to go except through the radiator which, by the way, is clear - I removed leaves and pine needles from the area.

I don't see a spring in either of the hoses, but do they do anything other then prevent kinks in the hose? The hoses are the pre-formed type with bends formed in them to fit the application.

 

[Rumpity rumpity rump....]

A new thermostat and a flushing hasn't helped the overheating problem in my '72 BB. I see that there are aluminum, copper, and brass radiators available, but I have no idea which would be best or why. I don't have a/c. Any input would be appreciated.

Make sure your lower radiator hose isnt collapsing at 3,000 rpms , you have all side and top seals in place, youve power washed the radiator/condensor, youve used Prestone H.D. Cleaner and drained thru the block drains, and youve tried 80% distilled water to 20% coolant with 1 bottle of water wetter . If none of these help to get your temp. down (which youve confirmed with a lazor thermometer is actually high)...then opt for a DeWitt Aluminum radiator. It lowered my temp. so much that
my electric fans seldom come on and they are set for 205 f on and 190 f off , on my 1970 big block built to 540 gross h.p. Regards.

 

[Rumpity rumpity rump....]

Thanks very much for the input. I checked the spoiler, radiator cap, shroud and fan clutch, and they're fine. The pump is new.

I'm not sure I get "radiator seals". I don't see any leaks and I don't smell coolant. And it looks like there's nowhere for the air to go except through the radiator which, by the way, is clear - I removed leaves and pine needles from the area.

I don't see a spring in either of the hoses, but do they do anything other then prevent kinks in the hose? The hoses are the pre-formed type with bends formed in them to fit the application.

By 'radiator seals', we are referring to are the rubber strips that seal off airflow from going around the sides, top, and bottom of the radiator ; when they are in place they make more air go thru the radiator . The spring in the lower hose prevents a kink and also from it collapsing at higher rpms when the water pumps suction if great.

 

[BarryK]

besides what's already been posted about checking for all the radiator and core support seals, air dam under the nose, correct operation of fan clutch, etc one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the timing and vacuum advance.
Correct timing and vacuum advance is imperative to proper cooling system temps.
Make sure the timing is set properly and the vacuum advance system is working and connected to full manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum.

 

[dmdodd]

Just a quick follow-up question or two:

(1) why does it matter if the lower plastic front lip spoiler is attached correctly? Is it so that it forces more air up and into the radiator area? (mine personally is half coming off the bumper, I think I should get that fixed then if that's the case).

(2) Radiator sealing - making sure air flows through the rad rather than over/around.
I've just removed the plastic ductwork to the air cleaner from my '79, and I read that it's important to plug that gap between rad and hood that now exists. How is it best to do this? Is there a specific aftermarket part, or just some thick caulking strip???

Thanks in advance...
~Dan

 

[glen242]

Before giving up on a stock radiator, see if there is competent radiator shop in town. The rad on my '76 L-48 was in bad shape. My local shop salvaged the tanks and re-cored it using a 4 row core from an earlier BB, rather than the stock 3 core. Their total cost was a little over $100.

Car was mostly stock and ran 195-200* for about 3 years. Two years ago I installed a stroker, CC XE274H cam, RPM carb with modified Q-Jet, headers, TF 195 cc heads, etc. Installed a Permacool 16" fan, and made sure all rad air seals were fresh.

Only once in two summers did the temperature touch 202-205*, but no higher, using a 180* thermostat.

This was an inexpensive way for me to take care of any potential cooling problems.

BTW, no AC and a BW T-10.

 

[Vette79]

Just a quick follow-up question or two:

(1) why does it matter if the lower plastic front lip spoiler is attached correctly? Is it so that it forces more air up and into the radiator area? (mine personally is half coming off the bumper, I think I should get that fixed then if that's the case).

(2) Radiator sealing - making sure air flows through the rad rather than over/around.
I've just removed the plastic ductwork to the air cleaner from my '79, and I read that it's important to plug that gap between rad and hood that now exists. How is it best to do this? Is there a specific aftermarket part, or just some thick caulking strip???

Thanks in advance...
~Dan

Dan, you can purchase these foam seals specifically for your application from most manufacturers...

 

[Rumpity rumpity rump....]

Just a quick follow-up question or two:

(1) why does it matter if the lower plastic front lip spoiler is attached correctly? Is it so that it forces more air up and into the radiator area? (mine personally is half coming off the bumper, I think I should get that fixed then if that's the case).

(2) Radiator sealing - making sure air flows through the rad rather than over/around.
I've just removed the plastic ductwork to the air cleaner from my '79, and I read that it's important to plug that gap between rad and hood that now exists. How is it best to do this? Is there a specific aftermarket part, or just some thick caulking strip???

Thanks in advance...
~Dan

1. The air dam serves two purposes : To deflect incoming air thru the radiator / condensor when moving forward, and, to help prevent recirculation of engine bay heat when standing still.

2. If you go to Pep Boys or www.jcwhitney.com , youll find a variety of widths and thicknesses of high quality rubber weatherstripping (generic) . It has a sticky side after you peal off the paper..but id still apply some special adhesive to that side so it sticks permanently. Apply it to the underside of the hood after cleaning the area to be stuck on.

 

[Vette79]

Apply it to the underside of the hood after cleaning the area to be stuck on.

It came from the factory with these pieces applied to the radiator and radiator support and not the hood...

 

[Rumpity rumpity rump....]

It came from the factory with these pieces applied to the radiator and radiator support and not the hood...

Oh, ok...I didnt know that about the '79's . On my '70 , I applied it to the underside of my hood and it makes a nice tight seal with the hood closed.

 

[KANE]

...Vettehead Mikey's statement that "Everything else is a second-rate substitute." cannot be backed-up by fact. Again, DeWitts generally makes a good product, but there are others out there, too...

To that point, I bought a very nice aluminum radiator from a vendor on ebay at a very reasonable price. Hib is right- DeWitts isn't the only show in town.

I'm listing the address of the manufacturer to illustrate the point that DeWitts isn't the only manufacturer. http://www.northernfactory.com/

The vendor I used for <$400- http://stores.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-PARTS-INC

I've been very happy with my radiator from them. It fits great with only a minimal modification to the stock shroud. I had to notch the shroud around the upper hose provision a little less than a quarter of an inch.

I've added some pictures so that y'all can see how it looks and fits.