It didn't blow until I turned on the key, replaced with a 25 and it was fine.
Problem still exist. I don't have 12 volts constant power through the 10 amp radio fuse. I checked the volts at the fuse and it is 9.5.
the power seats,door locks don't work, but did before starter replacement.
You need to pull that fuse - NOW!!!
No fuse will blow if everything is off, and you turn on the key, unless something is wrong. Even if you put a 5A fuse in a 30A circuit, it won't blow till you turn on the device, NOT THE KEY.
First try this: Pull the power connector to the device that's on the fuse that blows (you haven't said what fuse it is that blows?). Then stick in another fuse, whatever spec calls for, and turn the key.
If a fuse blows when you turn on the key, and the device is off, then the circuit DOWNcurrent of the fuse is grounded to frame somewhere, and it is grounded BETWEEN the fuse and the device.
Pull the fuse that burns. Put your (+) probe multimeter into one side of the fuse socket, and ground the other probe on the frame/metal body part, key off. One of the sockets will show power ONLY with the key ON. The other has the short to ground, and that's the one you have to follow - literally. Volume 2 FSM end of book will tell you where the harness with that circuit/line goes to from the fuse block.
Get some jumper cables (you need only one line of the cables), connect one end to the (+) Batt terminal, put the (-) multimeter probe in the other end of the SAME cable clamp. Put the (+) multimeter probe into the socket that you have to follow, key still off, device for that fuse off too. It is supposed to show no current, but it will, since it's popping the fuse. Follow that harness, and test at each point, to find out where it no longer grounds out current.
This is the only totally methodical way to find the short, without accidentally finding a pinched or chafed lead...
