Removal of a hard to get to bolt

[larry bud]

Fixing an oil leak in my '86, had to remove the dampener. I used a real puller tool to remove it, and I really had to wail on it to finally get it pulled. Didn't notice until I went to put it back on that the tip of the puller actually started to thread into the camshaft hole, and then broke off. I'm guessing about 1/4" is in there. Nice design....

How the hell do I get this out? I have screw extraction sets, but I can't get a drill down in there to even drill a hole in this piece. Plus, I think it's super hard metal, which drilling will be a real *****.

Any other suggestions in removing something like this?

 

[Brad]

You may want to try to find a local precision machine shop that has an EDM Machine. This machine can "Burn Out" the part without damage to the surrounding part.

Good Luck

 

[bill5674]

been around awhile ,never heard of an edm .What is it?

 

[vettej1]

An EDM machine (electronic discharge machine), uses carbon or wire to "electricaly" cut through metal.
Most commonly used in mold making. But can be used in a large number of applications. Very high precision and usually very expensive.

-js

 

[larry bud]

You may want to try to find a local precision machine shop that has an EDM Machine. This machine can "Burn Out" the part without damage to the surrounding part.

Good Luck

Hoping to be able to do this in my garage so I don't have to tow it anywhere.

 

[bill5674]

That is not good. Might have to unbolt mounts and jack up motor some. Any time something like that happens it takes alot of luck and skill.If the threads wre the same it might back out after drilling with right angel drill or left hand bit.may be a dremal tool will fit.If the threads are Not the same it is now crossed threaded and will be a real ***** to remove.Don`t hack it or you will be in more trouble.Straight line drilling is the way ,not simple but not many options.Also I think you mean the crankshaft not camshaft. Work slow and keep your mind clear otherwish you could be in for hefty repair bill.Not to scare you but it could be a lot of work .....good luck

 

[The Car Whisperer]

Can you get your hands on a small right angle drill? Maybe even a right angle die grinder might work. This might fit down there with a short drill bit. If you can drill a hole in the broken off threaded piece of your puller you might be able to get an easy out in and back it out. I think you maya be talking about the end of the crankshaft not the camshaft here. Worth a try. You have to get the piece out in oeder to use the threads in the end of the crank to pull the damper back on.

 

[96lt4conv]

Get a dremel tool with the flexible attachment and try to find an 1/8" left hand drill bit, you should be able to get to it with that. I doubt however, that an easy out that size would be strong enough to twist the scrap out but it's worth a try.


Scott

 

[WhalePirot]

What a pickle UR in! You might need some expert help (the potential for damage ($$$) has been stated).

This is not an easy task due to the access already described and the hardness of the metals. EZouts break more often than not for me, but you might luck out. A LH drill MAY do the job if you can get to the site with a small LH bit.

Give yourself a break by stopping work if you get frustrated. Take out as many parts as you need to get a good workspace. Less will cost you more time and money. GO SLOWLY, with patience!!!!

The Dremel I had was very light duty and could never do this job.

 

[BlackNBlue95]

Can you get a picture of this..

 

[larry bud]

Can you get a picture of this..

Oh what a nightmare this is! So I bought a right angle drill, and was able to drill just under 1/4" hole in the "bolt" (note, the end of the puller was NOT threaded, but somehow threaded itself into the crankshaft...).

So then I tried a spiral bolt extractor, and yep, you guess it, it snapped.

If I get a torch, can I melt this thing out?

Here's a pic.

 

[tnovot]

You have to get the piece out in oeder to use the threads in the end of the crank to pull the damper back on.

There is also a special tool to reinstall the damper. It is not a good idea to force the damper back on using the center bolt. I have seen it strip out the threads in the crank and this would be even more likely if some of the threads are damaged. You think you have trouble now but this should be fixable. Strip out the threads totally and you'll have to drill it out and install a pair of stacked helicoils.

Also, I don't think a torch is a good idea. Too much heat could change the the molecular structure of the metal and weaken the end of the crank.

I'd try to use small tools such as drill bits and a Dremel tool as suggested by Scott and Bill. This tool has saved my bacon more than once. Don't be in a hurry - go slowly even when it gets tedious.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[larry bud]

There is also a special tool to reinstall the damper. It is not a good idea to force the damper back on using the center bolt.

What is the tool?

 

[tnovot]

What is the tool?

It is a Harmonic Balancer (Damper) installation tool. Sort of like a large multi piece bolt. The stationary end threads into the crank and then there is a coupler (usually round with internal threads) which attaches one of several adapters which includes a large washer and nut which when tightened, actually pulls the damper back on.
The tool uses the entire length of crank threads but remains stationary so that you are not turning and pulling on the crank threads at the same time
I have my own but I think Auto Zone has these on a free loan basis.

 

[bossvette]

Oh what a nightmare this is! So I bought a right angle drill, and was able to drill just under 1/4" hole in the "bolt" (note, the end of the puller was NOT threaded, but somehow threaded itself into the crankshaft...).

So then I tried a spiral bolt extractor, and yep, you guess it, it snapped.

If I get a torch, can I melt this thing out?

Here's a pic.

No torches, please. you will have to drill it out. the problem you will have will be keeping it on center with the EZ out in there. I would suggest an automotive machine shop, they may be able to help you. If you know a machinist he can make you a drill guide.
How far in the piece of puller is into the crank snout will determine if you can take a carbide "burr" in a Dremel or die grinder and cut out the piece and still have threads to hold the dampner on. That may be the easyiest way.

 

[bill5674]

sorry to hear about that. There is no easy way out .Don`t torch it ...can you say crankshaft replacement? Only thing I can think of ,and I have had some sucsess with is the following... If you have a welder take a washer with a hole a little bigger than the broken piece.carefully weld the mess to washer,then weld a nut to washer slowly work it back and forth ...it does work depending how tight this mess is ,also the heat from the weld could help loosen it up .

 

[ShaneL]

If you get a dremel with one of those right hand bends at the end and one of the diamond tipped engraving tools you may be able to make a good hole without getting too close to the threads.

 

[larry bud]

No torches, please. you will have to drill it out. the problem you will have will be keeping it on center with the EZ out in there. I would suggest an automotive machine shop, they may be able to help you. If you know a machinist he can make you a drill guide.
How far in the piece of puller is into the crank snout will determine if you can take a carbide "burr" in a Dremel or die grinder and cut out the piece and still have threads to hold the dampner on. That may be the easyiest way.

The puller piece is MAX 1/4" into the threads, probably not quite that much.

I made some progress on it last night using my right angle drill and a small bit from my dremel kit. I was able to drill a couple of holes, then was able to grind out the material between the holes, so now I have a "U" shape, but then I broke the bit. Still haven't gotten the extraction tool out yet, but I'm getting there.

I'll be sure to pick up a real balancer installation tool instead of using the crank bolt.

How far do the threads go into a crankshaft?

 

[The Car Whisperer]

Definitely go with the correct installation tool, a good one will have a ball bearing that goes between the damper hub and the head of the puller so you dont exert any uneccassary forces on the threads.

 

[bossvette]

The puller piece is MAX 1/4" into the threads, probably not quite that much. How far do the threads go into a crankshaft?

I guessing close to an inch deep of threads, I just tossed a 350 crank last week
cleaning up. Using your carbide burr or bit take as much out as you can without hitting the threads. you may be able to break it loose with a small sharp center punch tapping on the outside diameter in a counterclockwise direction. If that doesnt work using your bit grind a slot all the way through the outside threads and all to split the piece and take the pressure off it you then should be able to use your small center punch and break it out of there.
Good luck