Removal of a hard to get to bolt

[larry bud]

Definitely go with the correct installation tool, a good one will have a ball bearing that goes between the damper hub and the head of the puller so you dont exert any uneccassary forces on the threads.

Like this tool?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=191644&prmenbr=361

 

[larry bud]

I guessing close to an inch deep of threads, I just tossed a 350 crank last week
cleaning up. Using your carbide burr or bit take as much out as you can without hitting the threads. you may be able to break it loose with a small sharp center punch tapping on the outside diameter in a counterclockwise direction. If that doesnt work using your bit grind a slot all the way through the outside threads and all to split the piece and take the pressure off it you then should be able to use your small center punch and break it out of there.
Good luck

Thanks for all the advice. I don't have time to work on it for the next couple of days, but will keep everyone posted.

 

[rrubel]

Thanks for all the advice. I don't have time to work on it for the next couple of days, but will keep everyone posted.

When I put my balancer on the new engine, I used a long length of threaded stock and a nut with a large washer. Seemed to work fine.

BTW - if you find you do need a new crank (lot of work to get the old one out ) you're welcome to the one from my old engine. It's on a stand and I'm pulling pieces off the block anyway so the crank wouldn't be much trouble. It's also from an 86.
[RICHR]

 

[WhalePirot]

We're all with ya, man!

 

[dburgjohn]

Sorry to hear about busted puller, but...

IMHO the cost of a tow and a machine shop are small compared to the cost of an engine that comes apart at speed. I have lost the front of a crank before and parts can fly through the hood, fenders, etc. I think peace of mind is worth the $$$ even if the Corvette has to sit (which mine has).

 

[larry bud]

Almost there

Ok, got the piece out finally with a right angle drill and a couple of dremel bits. Once I got a bit made for hard metals, it went pretty quickly.

Everything looks ok except for the first 2 turns of the thread. They're munged up a bit, and the bolt won't go in easily. I definitely don't want to force it. What's the best way to repair this part? Do I just use a tap and hope I don't cross thread it, or is there a tool made for this? Maybe I should just grind the first couple of turns flat?

TIA!

 

[bossvette]

Ok, got the piece out finally with a right angle drill and a couple of dremel bits. Once I got a bit made for hard metals, it went pretty quickly.

Everything looks ok except for the first 2 turns of the thread. They're munged up a bit, and the bolt won't go in easily. I definitely don't want to force it. What's the best way to repair this part? Do I just use a tap and hope I don't cross thread it, or is there a tool made for this? Maybe I should just grind the first couple of turns flat?

TIA!

just run the proper size tap in to clean the holes it should be a 1/2-20 NF if I remember correctly, you can take the bolt to the store with you to match the threads. If you plan on doing your own work it might be a good excuse to buy a tap and die set you will use it many times.

 

[larry bud]

just run the proper size tap in to clean the holes it should be a 1/2-20 NF if I remember correctly, you can take the bolt to the store with you to match the threads. If you plan on doing your own work it might be a good excuse to buy a tap and die set you will use it many times.

Almost, it's 7/16-20. We'll see how it works tonight. Then I can get this thing back together and drive! Summer is way too short in Michigan to let the Vette sit for 2 weeks.

 

[larry bud]

Finally got this done over the weekend. Buttoned everything up and it's running great. Thanks for all the advice.