Replacing Battery Cables

[Baldie88]

I think my intermittant no-start condition may be bad battery cables so I'm going to order new ones tonight. Any hidden tricks I need to know about before I tackle the job? Looked at the repair manual last night and there were no instructions, just a picture of some of the connections.

It's got a new battery and the alternator checks OK. Have lights and power but when I turn the key I don't even get a click. The one time I did have to tighten the positive and it started. Last time it wouldn't even jump but after moving some wires and the cables again it started. A friend had a similar condition and it ended up being corroded cables even though the ends looked fine.

I'm beginning to think the car is possessed because I never know when it is going to start.ad

Thanks for any help.

Ron
"Baldie88"

 

[Jeroenvgfn]

are u sure it has nothing to do with VATS ?

I had similar problems, after replacing the ignition key for a new one
(just let a shop read out the code before ordering)

and I changed the - cable as it was not good anymore ( battery - cable to gearbox)

since then no problems with starting.

good luck in your search and keep us posted.

 

[Baldie88]

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I just bypassed the VATS. I thought that might have been my initial problem prior to finding a weak battery. New battery and VATS bypassed and still the same problem.

Darn thing might start 20 times in a row and then no start. Naturally the no-start is always the farthest from home.:cry

Ron
"Baldie88"

 

[72Slydog]

I experienced no start problems with my 96 LT1 several times. After replacing the battery three times and still not fixing the problem I decided to replace the battery cables. Corrosion was found on the positive battery cable on the battery side and appeared to have traveled several inches down the length of the cable. After removing the positive cable from the starter I tied a six foot length of nylon string to the starter end of the cable to give me a reference path for feeding the new cable. The string was tied to the starter end of the new cable and pulled back through the original path. This proved to be a very tricky procedure because of the confined area between the engine and firewall. After several tries the cable followed the correct path. Hope this helps.

 

[Baldie88]

Forgot I had started this thread. I got the cables but I had a hard time getting under it enough to get to the starter and grounds. So I took it to the local Chevy dealer. I trust these guys.

After being at the dealers for 2 weeks and them starting it about 100 times, it finally had a no-start. Ended up being the starter enable relay. This is behind the DIC. When the mechanic finally got the no-start he checked the continuity of the cables and they were fine. That led him to check the relay and yep, the darn thing wasn't making contact. So it was replaced and although I've only driven it a couple times since then I think this fixed the problem. Starter, cables, ignition, everything else checked out fine.

Boy I could have sworn it was the cables. And you're right they look like they are a bear to replace.

Ron
"Baldie88"