Rough running problem

[Jack]

Give Kenny plenty of slack ... broke rib is nuthin to sniff at. My condolences to him ... wish him speedy recovery. Yea, we tend to minimize pain ... that is until we can see the damage in black&white.

Close inspect pushrods ... they tend to develop fine fractures at spherical ends ... also make sure they're real clean ... especially INSIDE ... where the oil flows ... real important because oil flows UP the inside of pushrods & that's the ONLY route of oil TO the rockers,springs etc. New PR's are pretty inexpensive ... good SpeedPro set of 16 can be had for about $25 (i.e. P/N RPK5000R) ... OE type can be had for under a dollar each. Old oil tends to coke up inside old PRs ... plugging up & blocking oil flow ... nature of the beast.

If timing set has plastic-jacketed cam gear ... close inspect ... and if it's badly worn ... pieces of plastic jacket may've broken away ... if so, they're residing in oil pan's sump. If a lot of it is broken away then there's a chance they can plug the oil pump pickup screen in oil pan's sump ... you'd have to make a judgement call if R&R pan is needed.

Personally, I've never seen a chevy V8 jump time (as in chain jump a tooth). If it did ... the ignition timing marks would be WAY out when ya put a light on it & it probably would hardly run. Their chains will stretch & get a lotta slack in em ... & if a plastic jacket strips away it also makes more slack. A lotta slack will upset both cam & ignition timing ... but you should be able to see that when ya put a light on it ... the marks should be dancing around.
JACK:gap

 

[cntrhub]

Kenny better watch out for the, "Rush Limbaugh" effect. Codone type drugs are helpful but addictive.
I would assume that a jumped timing tooth would effect a few more valves on the opposite side also? The guide might be the culprit in this. I doubt the chain jumped.
If I remember correctly, it will take 65 full turns of the crank to line the timing gears. You might be anywhere from one to 64 more turns out of phase, looking to line up the marks. Keep turning, and make sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke when finally checking the timing marks.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Heidi,

Tell Kenny Jody and I wish him the best. I broke three ribs in high school when I threw my 165 pound frame in front of this 240 pound mosnter trying to get the quarterback. Some of the worst pain I have ever had.

If you are taking the front of the engine off, you have to get that new cam.

Bob

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Without a doubt!

CAC is populated by the most friendly and helpful members ANYWHERE! :cry

Kenny and I have received several offers of members willing to come over and help us put the 78 back together. Everyone has been wonderful and Kenny and I know that we have met wonderful people and made great friends through this site.

Thank you for the offers of assistance, they are greatly appreciated, but we do have it covered with local mechanically inclined friends and co-workers.

Bob, Jack...looks like I may get that new cam after all! Kenny just gave me the go-ahead-if-you-must signal and I certainly WILL take advantage of his medicated state to get a cam!
Heidi

ps
We have new lifters and pushrods to install.

QUESTION:
Do we need to purchase new head bolts or can we re-use the ones we have? Someone has told Kenny he needs to buy new ones...and we don't know.

 

[MoeJr]

You can use the old head bolts as long as they aren't stretched. New ones are reasonably priced so it should not be a huge expense if you use new. Keep the cam mild. A Comp cams Xtreme Energy 260 cam would go nicely in that car.

 

[Jack]

head bolts/cam choice

QUESTION:
Do we need to purchase new head bolts or can we re-use the ones we have? Someone has told Kenny he needs to buy new ones...and we don't know.

Heidi & Kenny:
Yes, this is a great place! Your headbolts will probably clean up real nice and probably have been installed only once (in your goodwrench motor that's never had the heads off) ... new is usually better, but I think yours'll probably be just fine for re-use. We routinely re-use ... so far no leaks
-------------------------------------------------------
There are many other good cam choices ... but I suggested that particular cam profile from these makers for several reasons:

1. Experience: I’ve installed this profile before.
2. Price: about $50-$60. Cost containment by not paying Cam Specialist “branding” prices.
3. Name brands: these manufacturers are respected automotive OE & aftermarket.
4. Quality: as good as any.
5. Availability: probably available at local parts houses.
6. Profile: although mild it is a definite upgrade. It will provide very good vacuum (your vette’s vacuum systems will operate without any degradation). It will provide a barely perceptible lope. It will make lots more torque (that’s what most street drivers actually desire). It will provide good fuel economy; possibly even better than stock. It is mild enough that it will not interfere with either stock or your upgraded heads’ valve train ... also will not require “degreeing in” (install as stock). It will not cause any undue stress on motor, valve train, trans, diff etc.
------------------------------------------------
Specs:
valve lift: 0.420” I / 0.443” E

0.050” duration: 204° I / 214° E

approximate advertised/SAE duration: 270° to 278° I / 280° to 288° E
-------------------------------------------------
Part Numbers:
SpeedPro/SealedPower/TRW P/N CS1151R (110° lobe center)

Clevite/DANA P/N 229-2201 (110° lobe center)

Clevite/DANA P/N 229-1730 (107° lobe center makes a bit more lope than 110°)

Blue Racer/Wolverine P/N WG-1103 (107° lobe center makes a bit more lope than 110°)

JACK:gap

 

[MoeJr]

The cam Jack selected is a great choice. It is a small step up from the old L48 profile in terms of duration and lift. I like the 110 lobe center for it's wider powerband which is especially good if your car is an automatic. Some manufacuters even make it in a 112 lobe center(I believe Summit does but not sure). 112 would be great for the Goodwrench Motor. Just my .02

 

[78SilvAnniv]

I was leaning towards the Clevite/Dana 110 degree cam. Kenny thinks this is similar to an RV cam, is that correct?
Can I just call my local parts places and see if they have it, or should I order on-line?
Heidi

ps...will the radiator have to come out to remove/install the cam? What other parts do we need to do this?

 

[GerryLP]

Hissing sound found?

Heidi,

Did you ever figured-out the hiss sound? When my power brake booster failed, I noticed a hissing sound inside the "cabin" together with degrading brake action.

Also, I know its too late, and that you have already found a set of heads for your 78 Silver Aniversary, but just in case, everyone can check out the extensive source on headflow tests conducted by Chevy High Performance Magazine (in particular Part IV): Chevyhighperformance.com

The December 2003 edition, page 96, shows an article on how smaller valve sizes and ports speed up airflow. I have yet to asimilate the information on that edition, but at least whoever is in need of it can at least "chew" the information at their own pace.

p.s. The links inside the page connected to the link above are not working, so here is the one that does work for the head flow data tests: CHP article on head flow tests

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Re: Hissing sound found?

...headflow tests conducted by Chevy High Performance Magazine (in particular Part IV)...

Funny you should mention that...while I was at the oil change place with Kenny's truck several weeks ago, they had a Chevy High Performance magazine that was CHOCK FULL of articles pertaining to my project. They let me take the mag!

The hiss was a broken plastic vaccum connector. :t Easy fix, once located.
Heidi

 

[GerryLP]

Ok,

I figured a round-about for the links at Chevy High Performance related to The Goodrwench Quest project:

Part I: Dyno-Flogging the GM's 350 crate engine

Part II: Heads and Cam

Part III: L98 Corvette Heads

Part IV: Head Flow Test Data

Part V: 408 HP on the Cheap

Part VI: TFS Aluminum Heads

Part VII: Weiand 142 Blower

Part VIII: Overview

I hope this helps everyone. It contains some very good information, and plays to the "what if" in our minds on the next candidate project for our Chevy's

p.s.

Here is their entire head database: CHP Head Database

 

[Jack]

I was leaning towards the Clevite/Dana 110 degree cam. Kenny thinks this is similar to an RV cam, is that correct?
Can I just call my local parts places and see if they have it, or should I order on-line?

ps...will the radiator have to come out to remove/install the cam? What other parts do we need to do this?

Heidi:

YES ... Kenny is correct ... it is best known as an "RV cam."

Some of your local parts houses offer those brands ... also some auto machine shops offer same. They might not have that cam in stock, but can have it within a day or two. I prefer to buy local when possible ... if you can't find it lemme know ... I can either point you to a supplier or I can acquire it for y'all.

Here’s a supplier in Florida I’ve bought from (good pricing & service)
http://www.erwparts.com/
ERW 1-800-940-4379
aciarrocchi@erwparts.com (Anthony Ciarrocchi)
Tony’s extension is 102

YES, you’ll need to pull the radiator (cam’s as long as engine block is; cam’s too long) ... pull the harmonic balancer/damper, pull the fuel pump, fp plate & it’s fp rod (fp rod rides on a lobe on cam).Opportune time to have radiator cleaned out. You’ll need assembly lube, gaskets, timing cover seal.

BTW, IMHO ... the roller tip rockers are nice and won’t hurt a thing ... but I don’t think THIS motor will benefit much from them other than that they are new rockers. I do suggest new rockers ... a new set of 16 OE type rockers with balls & nuts should be well under $35. Selling off the rollers may just about offset the new cam.
JACK:gap

 

[Jack]

Heidi & Kenny:
Clevite & the others I suggested offer a pretty good selection of cam profiles ... probably no more than $5 difference between em. Dunno if maybe you might be entertaining idea of MORE cam. If so, I can email you a PDF attachment of Clevites cam offerings with specs. Email me if you want it.
JACK:gap