She's all mine...

[jdp6000]

Two different parts. The EGR looks like every other. Like a big mushroom...its over to the passenger side of the distributor. The solenoid is a small electrical valve...like in the picture. When I say unplug the hose i mean the one on the front TBI...that goes to the electric part (solenoid).

Jim

 

[Rebelrob]

OK here is another pic, maybe you can help me out.
What is the brass colored part next to firewall? I think I see the EGR solenoid in this pic. Also what is coming out the valve cover? All these emission parts are really throwing me. My old 350, did not have any of this.

I also saw an ajustment screw on the side of the pass TBI pointing towards the fender. Is this the capped screw you mentioned?

Dumb ?, do I need to do all this testing when its been running for a while, at operating temp? You mentioned it idles high a cold start up anyway?

Two different parts. The EGR looks like every other. Like a big mushroom...its over to the passenger side of the distributor. The solenoid is a small electrical valve...like in the picture. When I say unplug the hose i mean the one on the front TBI...that goes to the electric part (solenoid).

Jim

 

[73shark]

Yes, its a CE. I'm just looking for some help with some of my questions.
Is that a 73?

Yes, took delivery in April, '73.

What is your hot idle in "Drive"?

 

[Rebelrob]

Nice...
My dad has a 73. It serves as a dust collector right now.
He pro streeted it. It needs a new fuel system upgrade and cooling.

I'm working with a few people to try and get my high idle problem solved.
Im guessing I need to drive it before I try to test any of these out.

Yes, took delivery in April, '73.

What is your hot idle in "Drive"?

 

[Rebelrob]

I disconnected that hose again that I sent in the pic and the idle jumped way up. I connected it and it went back down. I ran it for about 10 mins in the garage and the idle got down to 700 ish. I have not driven it yet to maybe get it hotter, but will try it out 2nite.
I also pushed up on the egr valve and the engine started to bog down and quit. So maybe my egr valve and solenoid are working correctly.
Wonder if I need that CTS?
Thx for the help so far..

R

You can see the EGR solenoid in your picture of that hose...see the bolt with the electical wires on the mainfold....thats what the solenoid attaches too.

 

[jdp6000]

That gold thing is the EGR it looks new. And yes if you pushed on it and it bogged its working. I can't make it out in your picure but does the hose from the gold thing go to that other thing with the electical wires connected to it? Then a hose should go form that electrical thing to the TBI. If thats the case all is fine there.

So you understand. There are two hoses that come from that TBI. The furthest one is suppose to go to that thing with the red and black wires going to it. Then another hose comes from that thing with the two wires and goes to the gold thing.

The other hose you see, towards the bottom right of your picture goes to the polution control stuff. Unplug that hose and cap the hole on the TBI. Does it make a diiference. That hose goes to the diverter valve for the polution control stuff. The polution control valves are pron to leaks. If it make a difference you may have to replace that valve or the next one down the line...its attached to the polution control pump...that funny looking thing with the belt turning the pulley.

So back to your picture. You see the hose furthest away? The one that goes to the electical thing with the red/black wire??? To the left of that there is a hole and i can see the saucer shaped plug which I was talking about. The plug is there so no one has played with that TBI. There is a screw under that saucer shaped cap which is used to adjust the angle of the plates in the TBI. These are factory set. Adjusting them will not bring your idle down.The same saucer shaped plug should be on the other TBI.

So I see nothing wrong there, Its good you are down to 700 rpm. You are getting close.

Now on that same TBI look at the linkage. Do you see a screw welded with a drop of soldering? If so it has not been tampered with either.

Once again I stress do not touch the settings. I'm going to send you a link that tells you how to set the TBI's but not because i want you to do it. Just for the pictures of the saucer shaped plugs and there location. here is the link Chevrolet Corvette EFI System Tuning - Tech Articles - Corvette Fever Magazine

Your TBI looks pretty clean too. Thats good.

 

[jdp6000]

I disconnected that hose again that I sent in the pic and the idle jumped way up. I connected it and it went back down. I ran it for about 10 mins in the garage and the idle got down to 700 ish. I have not driven it yet to maybe get it hotter, but will try it out 2nite.
I also pushed up on the egr valve and the engine started to bog down and quit. So maybe my egr valve and solenoid are working correctly.
Wonder if I need that CTS?
Thx for the help so far..

Its the CTS (is your rad full?? It must be for the CTS to work) or you have a very minor vaccum leak somewhere. Check the bolts that hold the TBI's down for tightness. You may also what to check the PCV valve. Its in the valve cover on the driver side. If you remove it while the engine is running and put your finger under it it should suck hard. If you shake it it should rattle like a rattle snake. That could also be a source of a vaccum leak. The hose from the manifold goes to the PCV. Another hose from the other side of the PCV goes to a solenoid (looks exactly like the EGR solenoid). That solenoid opens and lets the vapor continue to the Carbon Canister. So Check the PCV and that solenoid. Easiest way is to un plug the hose from the PCV and plug it so nothing is being drawn from the mainfold. If the idle changes you found another leak.

Jim

 

[jdp6000]

Rob,

I'm on a plane to the Turks tomorrow morning. I'm back Sunday. I won't be able to reply to you until then. I'll check one more time tonight if I can.

Jim

 

[Rebelrob]

OK Thanks. Took her out for spin for about 30 mins.
Still ideling about 700 ish, sorta sporadic. It still shifts hard into R and D from Park. I have not tried the PCV test yet. Will try tomorrow.
Maybe someone else can comment, but It sure seems to run cool.
The temp guage barely makes it to the second hash mark. Temps are in the 60's 2nite. I also noticed it has an electric fan mounted on the radiator in front of the mechanical fan. What is the factory thermostat?
Thanks,
R

Rob,

I'm on a plane to the Turks tomorrow morning. I'm back Sunday. I won't be able to reply to you until then. I'll check one more time tonight if I can.

Jim

 

[82ColEd]

Thanks for the info. Germany huh? How did a Vette end up way over there?
Yep, the tint is dark. But I'm Texas, and let me tell ya, it gets hot here, real hot. The dark tint helps.

1. My idel is high at start up/cold, goes right to about 1100 rpm. Same when it warms up and in drive. Stays about the same. I took her out last night. The temp was about 54 degrees, nice and cool out and it was the same.
I will check the things you talk about.
Vaccuum leak- where do I look for this? Coolant , u mean part of the radiator set up? I can check the screws. I put new air filters and sprayed the TBI with injector cleaner.

Also, do you think this is why it shifts hard from Park to R and D?

2. Gas gauge sending unit. I have heard of this. I can pull it right out from the top, where I put gas in? Should I disconnect my battery. That electric wire connector and gas, make me nervous?
Also have you ever had problems with your fuel pump or gas tank at all?

3. I will check for the antenna wires. I had a 97 trans am with electric antenna and the crappy thing went out in about 4 years. So I figured it was the little motor.

Glad I found a fellow CE owner. Sorry bout all the questions. Dang I wish you were state side, I could call ya....

Thanks,
R

I go away for a few hours and bang you guys are setting it down to 700 rpms already.. Good !

Germany: Well, it was bought in the States around 91 and shipped over to Germany, modded for Euro Spec and i bought it in 93. Moved to the States in 97, lived there for 10 and moved back in 2007. Poor thing has it's sealegs by now. :L

Let's make sure the idle is sorted first. But i did reply with a link to your PM re the Gas Tank Pump/Sender. It's tricky, but is possible. Gotta do the Twist.

IRS= Independent Rear Suspension.

I know when I try to move her during high idle, or, one time when my alternator was dead, so the choke wouldn't turn off and it was idling around 2,000 rpm, putting it in gear was like you were squatting down and launching hard. I really do think it's normal for right now, however if you get your idle fixed and it is still drastic, maybe you should look into some of the suspension pieces. I know there is a pad above the differential pumpkin that can wear out and causes this condition. One step at a time though.. idle first.

-Tatortot

Clunk is normal. I have it too. And the squat is part of the fun of the half shafts. If it's too bad, once all else is sorted, we'll look at that then.

OK Thanks. Took her out for spin for about 30 mins.
Still ideling about 700 ish, sorta sporadic. It still shifts hard into R and D from Park. I have not tried the PCV test yet. Will try tomorrow.
Maybe someone else can comment, but It sure seems to run cool.
The temp guage barely makes it to the second hash mark. Temps are in the 60's 2nite. I also noticed it has an electric fan mounted on the radiator in front of the mechanical fan. What is the factory thermostat?
Thanks,
R

Might be a good time to state the following:
Idle in P (COLD)
Idle in D (COLD)
Idle in P (WARM, ie. 165ish degrees, 2nd hash mark or above)
Idle in D (WARM, see above)

The temp gauge: Mine does it too, it takes a while to warm up. Once i sit in traffic for 5 minutes, bang the fans come on as it went over 180. Thats fairly normal though. Also, while it's 180+ it might shift 1-3, thats normal too, for emissions.

Running fairly cool is a good thing. Mostly these run hot and arent enjoyable then.


Re fans: Can you snap a pic, please?

Ask any questions, we're happy to help (as you can see above. ). And usually, i take the cake with dumb questions. hnoes So dont worry about that.


-Stefan

 

[jdp6000]

What the status? did you get her going?

Jim

 

[Evolution1980]

Seems that no one has gotten back to you on your power antenna always being up.
The antenna works on a voltage signal from the radio. When the radio turns on, it applies voltage down the line letting the relay circuit know the radio is on and to put up the antenna. ...Shut off the radio, no voltage, antenna goes down.
My guess is that whomever put in the aftermarket radio got their wires crossed and wired the antenna lead to the hot lead for the clock/memory. This would cause it to always have voltage applied and thus always stay up.
If the wires are color coded correctly, the clock/memory wire should be yellow and the antenna wire should be blue. (These are colors coming from the radio. I don't recall what colors the car used. I don't have my shop manual here at work. One of these days I'm gonna remember to bring it in (in PDF format.))

OR they simply wired the antenna to always be up for some reason
OR the antenna motor is broken and stuck in the UP position.

I believe the connector for the antenna is tucked away in the back corner of the car, behind the driver-side rear speaker. You could unplug it and put a voltmeter on it to see if you are getting anything on the line.

 

[Rebelrob]

Thanks for all the info guys.
Yep, that thing called a jop is getting in the way with me playing with my new toy.
I am bringing her to a mechanic tomorrow for a complete brake and bearing job. Safety First....
Then Im going to put her on a lift and check out the undercarriage.
I have a friend that has a lift and the mechanic is a good family friend.

As for the high idle, I have not done anything since attach that hose from the EGR solenoid. It was idleing about 700ish last time I took her out.

I will troubleshoot the antenna maybe this wknd based on what you said. Thanks for the tips. I will let yall know.
R

Seems that no one has gotten back to you on your power antenna always being up.
The antenna works on a voltage signal from the radio. When the radio turns on, it applies voltage down the line letting the relay circuit know the radio is on and to put up the antenna. ...Shut off the radio, no voltage, antenna goes down.
My guess is that whomever put in the aftermarket radio got their wires crossed and wired the antenna lead to the hot lead for the clock/memory. This would cause it to always have voltage applied and thus always stay up.
If the wires are color coded correctly, the clock/memory wire should be yellow and the antenna wire should be blue. (These are colors coming from the radio. I don't recall what colors the car used. I don't have my shop manual here at work. One of these days I'm gonna remember to bring it in (in PDF format.))

OR they simply wired the antenna to always be up for some reason
OR the antenna motor is broken and stuck in the UP position.

I believe the connector for the antenna is tucked away in the back corner of the car, behind the driver-side rear speaker. You could unplug it and put a voltmeter on it to see if you are getting anything on the line.

 

[Rebelrob]

I did notice that there is a green wire under neath the antenna mount above the drive side muffler. Two green wires were cut and laying there. Looks like they need to be wire nutted together. So I touch each of the ends and it sparked and the antenna motor starting running. But it did not go up or down. It actually just kept running, so I pulled the green wires apart again and slapped some electric tap on them. There is a blue wire coming out of the crappy stereo in the dash that has something about wiring the antenna up if you have a power antenna, but its not hooked to anything...

Seems that no one has gotten back to you on your power antenna always being up.
The antenna works on a voltage signal from the radio. When the radio turns on, it applies voltage down the line letting the relay circuit know the radio is on and to put up the antenna. ...Shut off the radio, no voltage, antenna goes down.
My guess is that whomever put in the aftermarket radio got their wires crossed and wired the antenna lead to the hot lead for the clock/memory. This would cause it to always have voltage applied and thus always stay up.
If the wires are color coded correctly, the clock/memory wire should be yellow and the antenna wire should be blue. (These are colors coming from the radio. I don't recall what colors the car used. I don't have my shop manual here at work. One of these days I'm gonna remember to bring it in (in PDF format.))

OR they simply wired the antenna to always be up for some reason
OR the antenna motor is broken and stuck in the UP position.

I believe the connector for the antenna is tucked away in the back corner of the car, behind the driver-side rear speaker. You could unplug it and put a voltmeter on it to see if you are getting anything on the line.

 

[73shark]

In my limited experience w/ power antennas says that when the motor just runs, the plastic cord that moves the antenna up and down has broken and needs to be replaced.

 

[Rebelrob]

Yes, thats similar to what a friend of mine was saying. The motor sounds like its still working, but maybe the catch or chord as you mentioned is broken, which is why it keeps running. Wonder if one of the vendors sell an after market repair kit.

In my limited experience w/ power antennas says that when the motor just runs, the plastic cord that moves the antenna up and down has broken and needs to be replaced.

 

[Evolution1980]

Wonder if one of the vendors sell an after market repair kit.

Don't know about a 'repair kit' per se, but pretty much all of them sell the power antenna assm. Check with ZIP Products first, as they are a supporting vendor to the CAC and give discounts to CAC people.

 

[73shark]

Don't know now but you used to be able to buy a new mast w/ the plastic cord attached.

 

[Rebelrob]

In Echlers catalog you can buy a repair kit. They advertise that if the motor runs, this kit will will fix it 99% of the time. Looks like it could the chord that was mentioned earlier.

 

[Vette Gal]

Hi there and glad to hear about another CE Owner, Welcome to the best Corvette site on the web.........
I love my Baby and have had her for many, many years. All original and have had only minor things go wrong....one was the antenna, it was original and started making an awful racket and wouldn't go down, bought an aftermarket one, and was told it was more trouble than what it was worth to install it, so I just cut the black and red wire going to the power supply and now I just pull up the aerial and leave it up,
unless I am parked somewhere, then I just push it down. The reason why I didn't put in the aftermarket one, is that I didn't want to scratch the paint and it's hard to get at.....for a girl....just passing
on my two cents worth...by the way I don't think it has anything to do with your aftermarket stereo, because I had one as well, but as of last month I have put the original back in.
Good Luck with your CE
Cheers from Vette Gal from Canada