Help! Showstopper? Overflow hose broke off the Rad

[82ColEd]

ad Dang nabbit.. As i was torquing down the covers (the stupid shop guys didnt for all the money they got after replacing the seals) and replacing the TPS, i am suspecting to be responsible for my higher idle and rough running issue i check around the engine bay before firing it up and find that the nipple (?) of the radiator where the overflow tank connects has broken off. It was stuck in the hose, clamped down.

The Radiator isnt even 3 years old yet.. ad

And i wont be able to deal with the company as i had gotten it in the states and put in over there. So, my current path is to get it repaired, is that possible? Would the darn thing have to come out for that ?

And most importantly, can i drive it? The Vette is my DD.. :cry I do see Coolant in the Rad when i shine a light into it, maybe 1 inch below the top. I guess it would puke it out of the hole at the cap if it got too hot, but my car rarely reaches OT as i only go 3 miles to and from work. ;help

I am sooo ad right now. I am trying to better it, not find more stuff to fix. Arrrgh..


-Stefan

 

[Hib Halverson]

The cooling system in that car is not designed to be run with the coolant level in the radiator below the level of the cap seal.

If you're going to run it that way, I would do it for long.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Any local rad shop should be able to solder it back into place. Very simple fix.

 

[paul67]

Any local rad shop should be able to solder it back into place. Very simple fix.

I agree. It can be repaired/soldered very easily by a rad shop. After all that is how it was attached originally! By solder.

 

[82ColEd]

ok, cool.. thanks for the replies.. I am hoping they can leave it in the car, i would hate to have to take it out for a 5 minute solder job. We'll see.. Sourcing local rad shops now. This is Top Priority right now.


-Stefan

 

[82ColEd]

Ok, not having good luck with that one. Everyone of the shops asked that the rad be out of the car, else they wont touch it. Grrr..

I cleaned up the nipple and it has a little flange in the middle.

Could someone do me a favor and take a pic with the rad cap off, so that one can see the inside of the part where the little pipe-nipple comes in ? I am wondering how far the little pipe goes into the rad. And cant find a pic online anywhere.

And if i think correctly, i could potentially solder that in myself. From the outside, where the little middle overhang is. If not i would think a screwable pipe like they use in heating could be screwed in from the inside of the cap/top of the radiator.

Thanks for any and all pics !!

 

[JohnZ]

Here's what a section through that area looks like; don't let that overflow nipple extend much past the inside of the filler neck or it'll interfere with the edge of the primary pressure seal (the lower one).

 

[82ColEd]

Thanks John. That helps a ton.

So it needs to be flush with the inside. Ok, i can do that. The little pipe thing has a little rim on the top, where they attached it to the area. It still has solder on it.

Currently i am thinking to Bubba it with a hose clamp. One of those

One that has holes in it all around, with the hole being big enough for me to fit the outside part through and it should hold onto the little neck thats attached to the pipe. :ugh

Until i can get to someone who is willing to solder it on there properly. :eyerole

Thanks for all the pointers, you guys are the best !

 

[wallyknoch]

.
You could repair it with Epoxy panel adhesive if you can get near it. Also, leaving the radiator cap loose to the first notch will allow you to drive it to get it repaired as there would not be any pressure forcing the fluid out. If you cannot do the job, a local body shop will probably have the panel adhesive. The product is a real time saver and sticks like no other except welding, but sometimes that takes hours longer.

 

[82ColEd]

Wally, good idea.. Epoxy Panel Adhesive, eh ? I'll check the local shops, but that seems easier to find than someone willing to solder it in the car.

I bought some hose clamps, but they dont have holes and might not be wide enough for me to drill a hole in it. So i also got a holed metal band to fab something. But it's moot right now, as it is snowing and i have the big kahoona to drive.

I'll go hunting Epoxy Panel Adhesive now. Thanks !

 

[rascal_rascal_99]

I was thinking put it back on with JB Weld maybe?

 

[82ColEd]

Rascal, J-B-Weld is basically Liquid Steel/Epoxy.

At the store i was looking at the Liquid Steel & other Epoxy types, but the clerk HIGHLY recommended
Pattex Power Knete Repair Express.. Only thing i was worried about is that they say NOT to use it for Pressure Pipes, but he said, it should work fine. So i will give that a try. No mixing involved, just kneeding. hnoes

I'll let you guys know whats what. I am anxious now, thats for sure.

If not this one, then Epoxy we will go..

 

[82ColEd]

Ok, the Pattex isnt it. I wiggled it after it being on the car for a day and the little pipe came out. The sticky stuff was still somewhat securly attached to the rad. Not good for this application, though it looks ok for other uses.

Went and got Liquid Steel and Epoxy. I put on the Liquid Steel (single tube application, me lazy). Still there this morning as i attached the overflow hose. I will see if it's still there tonight, if so, i will fill up the missing cooleant and see if it can take it. Keeping my fingers x'd..

 

[TimAT]

Some emery cloth, a propane torch, some flux and acid core solder. Clean it all up with the emery cloth, paint it with the flux, put the tube where you want it, heat it with the torch, give it a little solder and you're done.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

That knead-n-stick epoxy won't do the job.
You need some good long-setting medium viscosity liquid epoxy that has a working time of at least 45 minutes. It will work just as good as soldering it on.

 

[IrishJoker]

JB Weld would have worked. Also I have a question - is this a pressurized expansion tank, or an over-flow tank?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Assuming it's stock, '82s have a non-pressurised coolant recovery tank. The last Corvette to have an expansion tank was '72.

 

[IrishJoker]

I suspected - since there is no great pressure behind it - other then when the cap opens to let an over-flow occur - which shouldn't happen all that frequently unless the OP has a cooling system problem - JB Weld should work to hold the pipe in place.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

A properly operating and filled system will expel and recuperate coolant EACH heat/cool cyle of the engine, not just in case of an ovetemp.

There is no air space inside the radiator for expansion purposes like pre-73 Corvettes, so it is normal and desireable for coolant to transfer everytime the car is used.

It is very true that there's no real pressure in the line, but it must not leak nonetheless.