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Slave Cylinder Replacement

RonnieH

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
85
Location
Henrico, NC
Corvette
2012 Crystal Red Metallic
I have had several responses to previous post regarding sticking clutch pedal. This is certainly a common issue with C5's. I previously changed the fluid and clutch was o.k. for awhile. Then, it started sticking again. I felt down around the master cylinder and there didn't appear to be any leakage in that area I could reach with my hand. I checked the master cylinder reservoir last week when the clutch pedal stuck most recently. I noticed the level in the reservoir dropped about a 1/8". After adding just a minimal amount of fluid, the clutch functioned normally. I then put the car on a lift and looked for signs of leakage. I noticed a couple of drops of what appeared to be hydraulic fluid on the transmission pan. Although I'm not 100% sure, I'm thinking the slave valve may be leaking,but then again I can't rule out the master cylinder 100% or any other scenario.

Question - Does the transmission have to be pulled to replace the slave valve? Knowing the general location of the slave valve, I'm guessing it does. The nearest dealer to me w/a good Vette mechanic is about 70 miles away. I called them today to get a ballpark figure to replace the slave valve. They quoted me $1150. Ouch!! I didn't ask them to break down the quote, but for that amount, I'm again assuming the transmission/bell housing would have to be removed. Their Vette technician is out of work for another couple of weeks, so I have some time to troubleshoot more and maybe get some other quotes. However, in my general location, I'm sure all the mechanics around here don't have Vette experience and they would hunt/peck and trial/error, so I'm between a rock and hard place.

Maybe someone has had their slave valve replaced. If so, does this quote seem reasonable?

Maybe this w/e, I'll pull the windshield reservoir where I can get down to the master cylinder and see if there is any leakage there.

Thanks for any help/ideas.
 

LLC5

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
2,299
Location
Wa.
Corvette
98 black 6spd convert.
I have had several responses to previous post regarding sticking clutch pedal. This is certainly a common issue with C5's. I previously changed the fluid and clutch was o.k. for awhile. Then, it started sticking again. I felt down around the master cylinder and there didn't appear to be any leakage in that area I could reach with my hand. I checked the master cylinder reservoir last week when the clutch pedal stuck most recently. I noticed the level in the reservoir dropped about a 1/8". After adding just a minimal amount of fluid, the clutch functioned normally. I then put the car on a lift and looked for signs of leakage. I noticed a couple of drops of what appeared to be hydraulic fluid on the transmission pan. Although I'm not 100% sure, I'm thinking the slave valve may be leaking,but then again I can't rule out the master cylinder 100% or any other scenario.

Question - Does the transmission have to be pulled to replace the slave valve? Knowing the general location of the slave valve, I'm guessing it does. The nearest dealer to me w/a good Vette mechanic is about 70 miles away. I called them today to get a ballpark figure to replace the slave valve. They quoted me $1150. Ouch!! I didn't ask them to break down the quote, but for that amount, I'm again assuming the transmission/bell housing would have to be removed. Their Vette technician is out of work for another couple of weeks, so I have some time to troubleshoot more and maybe get some other quotes. However, in my general location, I'm sure all the mechanics around here don't have Vette experience and they would hunt/peck and trial/error, so I'm between a rock and hard place.

Maybe someone has had their slave valve replaced. If so, does this quote seem reasonable?

Maybe this w/e, I'll pull the windshield reservoir where I can get down to the master cylinder and see if there is any leakage there.

Thanks for any help/ideas.



The slave cylinder is inside the torque tube, which in turn goes back to the transmission and differential. The torque tube, transmission, rear differential and rear cradle are removed as an assembly to access the clutch and slave cylinder. It is a big job. I would also suggest doing the clutch and flywheel, pilot bearing and rear main seal since these are all accessible with the torque tube removed. Good luck with it. :)
 

RonnieH

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
85
Location
Henrico, NC
Corvette
2012 Crystal Red Metallic
As I Feared

kind of what I thought. Thanks for response.

I only have 40k on the car and the car has never been dogged, so I don't believe I'll plan on replacing the clutch.

If I had to do all that, I believe I'd trade it in as is.

I'll troubleshoot a little more this w/e, but at this point, I'm not optimistic.

Thanks again.
 

Hib Halverson

Technical Writer for Internet & Print Media
Joined
Jan 10, 2001
Messages
13,452
Location
CenCoast CA
Corvette
71 04 12 19
As "LLC5" says, replacing the clutch slave is a big job.

Also, the clutch sticking can be one of two problems:
1) Problem with the clutch hydraulics
2) Faulty clutch.

So...don't assume that just because the miles on the clutch is only 40K that there not chance of a bad clutch.

At least pay the service facility doing the work to inspect the clutch while they've got the driveline out of the car.
 

dadaroo

Gone but not forgotten
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
530
Location
Columbia, SC
Corvette
2001 Convertibla, Navy Blue and Light Oak
Also, inside the torque tube the drive shaft has bearings and rubber couplers. Should consider replacing these also once you are into this much work. Balance that against mileage on the car and a good inspection.
 

RonnieH

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
85
Location
Henrico, NC
Corvette
2012 Crystal Red Metallic
Will Check

Once I get the car in for repairs, will have them check everything out as you guys suggested. I realize there is no direct correlation between mileage/parts failure, so while everything is apart, you are right - get all the peripherals checked out.

It will be several weeks before the dealer can do the work. In the interim, I'm going to see if I can find a transmission shop that does good work and has familiarity with Vettes.

To anyone who has similar work done, does the $1,150 estimate seem in the ballpark. I realize there may be a difference in price depending where one is located in the good ole U.S., but dealers should be working off the same cost basis.

Thanks for the replies. It's always good when others have suggestions/ideas I have not thought about. Sometimes one fails to see the big picture.

The forum is a great sounding board and the responses are very, very helpful.
 

LLC5

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
2,299
Location
Wa.
Corvette
98 black 6spd convert.
kind of what I thought. Thanks for response.

I only have 40k on the car and the car has never been dogged, so I don't believe I'll plan on replacing the clutch.

If I had to do all that, I believe I'd trade it in as is.

I'll troubleshoot a little more this w/e, but at this point, I'm not optimistic.

Thanks again.


Here's the deal with that approach: you may indeed have a leaking slave cylinder, but your sticking clutch problem may actually be the clutch pressure plate.

As Hib stated, definitely have the clutch assembly inspected when disassembled. It will be a little extra labor, but worth it.

I went through the same thing at 50K in 2006, I had the transmission resealed. I replaced all the components I recommended earlier including the slave cylinder even though my clutch disc was still pretty good and I didn't have any problems or issues with the clutch or transmission. Now here was my logic (for what is worth :)): The price in add'l parts and labor was minimal next to doing the same procedure's at a later date. If I was selling the car in a year or so I wouldn't have replaced the add'l parts. But I keep my vehicles a long time so I decided to do it. I believe that when I resell my C5 (and have all the receipts to prove the new parts were installed at 50K) it will not only be easier to sell on, but maybe get a higher residual value since the mileage will be a little high on the vehicle when I do sell it or trade it, possibly in the mileage range of a normal clutch replacement interval. I am in no way trying to tell you what to do or how to do it, just giving you some food for thought. Good luck with your choice. :)
 

RonnieH

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2002
Messages
85
Location
Henrico, NC
Corvette
2012 Crystal Red Metallic
Good points -all

Makes sense to me.

I was in the garage today doing a little more troubleshooting. I was looking at the access panel on the driver side inner fender and it looked to me like some sort of brake/hydraulic fluid. Thinking it possibly was coming from the master cylinder, I removed it and inspected the master cylinder thoroughly. No leak there, so puzzled what type fluid was on the access panel.

Master cylinder reservoir still at normal level, but then again I haven't driven it much since I added fluid last. Next week our Corvette club has a day trip, so will be driving it about 150 miles. I think I'll jack the car cup and wash all the underneath will Simple Green, rinse and wipe down. Before our ride next week, will mark the level in the master cylinder, drive about 150 miles and then see what I have when I get back both in the master cylinder and looking for signs of leakage underneath. Just in case, I have a container of hydraulic fluid in the trunk in case I need it!!!

Thanks for all who have shared their experiences and given me something to think about. If I get the problem narrowed down, will keep all informed.
 

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