Small engine fire

[60vettesdr]

Near the end of June I started my 1960 up to take it back to work and had a bit of difficulty starting the car. Once started I heard a pop that sounded like an electrical short and the car died. I then noticed smoke coming out the exhaust and then the hood and then there were flames. Even though the car was in the garage I have to admit my first thought was how do I save the car (it never occurred to me the house could burn down)! Well the car has been in the shop ever since it is now pretty much mechanically repaired and is now at the body shop to have the engine compartment, hood, fenders, and cowl repainted. Hopefully it should be done within the month. My question is, is there anything beyond the parts that they are replacing that I need be concerned about? They are replacing the coil, all of the plug wires, rebuilt the carburators (foam filter melted in the fire and went down the carbs) the fuel filter, various singed wires, and the wiper motor. By the way the car is basically all original with only worn out parts having been replaced. Any thoughts would be helpful.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Sorry for your problem. If originality is important to you, try to grab the bad parts that were replaced. You may wish to repair/rebuild them someday.

Have you checked the wiring harnesses?

What was the cause of the fire?

 

[60vettesdr]

67heaven thanks for the sympathy. I have grabbed as many parts as I can that would be salvagable. As for cause of the fire it appears that the 45 year old coil shorted out and started the ignition wires on fire. To a great degree the fire was contained under the heat shield that covers the coil and the distributor. Most of the rest of the damage was caused by the heat of the fire.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Sorry for your troubles, your description of your cars as a surviveror really means alot now.There was just a thread recently about fuseable links and I highley recomend them to every one.

You know my wife call me crazy but I will not pull a car into a garage untill it has sat out side for at least an hour. Even if it means I have to stay up late to pull them in.

Best of luck with your repairs

 

[JohnZ]

As for cause of the fire it appears that the 45 year old coil shorted out and started the ignition wires on fire. To a great degree the fire was contained under the heat shield that covers the coil and the distributor. Most of the rest of the damage was caused by the heat of the fire.

I'd bet a dime to a donut that it was a dead short between the wire flag on the (+) terminal on the coil and the inside of the distributor shield, which dead shorts, then melts the engine harness and turns it into a giant glowing filament - have seen several of these. I'd make sure they add a 16-ga. fusible link wire to the 12-ga. main power feed wire at the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid; that main power feed wire circuit is completely unprotected, all the way to the ammeter and ignition switch inside the car, and a dead short can burn the car to the ground.
:cry

 

[John Mcgraw]

I would tend to agree with John. If the coil is not oriented correctly or the terminals are turned wrong, it is real easy to short out the primary wire to the shield. Allways orient the point side of the coil so that it is closest to the shield. If you do this and it shorts out, the worst that will happen is the car will not start! Many a solid axle Corvette has burned completely up because of this problem, consider yourself very lucky and learn from this mistake. fuse the coil's primary wire like John suggests.


Regards, John McGraw

 

[magicv8]

I have fusible links at the starter and stinger fuses at the alt to save the car, but IMO the primary ingnition line needs a 5-10amp line fuse at the resistor. I use a 10a because my electric choke runs off it too. If the line shorts, I replace the 10a fuse instead of the harness that has the big red wire protected by a fusible link.

The picture in my CAC post "

Question: What happens when shielded secondary touches coil primary? " shows what happens with a fusible link and NO 10amp fuse. I just replaced the wire last week, and installed the line fuse.

 

[60vettesdr]

Thanks for all of the input guys. As ususal CAC members have a wealth of knowledge and are more then willing to share it. I will make sure that the mechanic follows your suggestions.

 

[IH2LOSE]

I have fusible links at the starter and stinger fuses at the alt to save the car, but IMO the primary ingnition line needs a 5-10amp line fuse at the resistor. I use a 10a because my electric choke runs off it too. If the line shorts, I replace the 10a fuse instead of the harness that has the big red wire protected by a fusible link.

The picture in my CAC post "

Question: What happens when shielded secondary touches coil primary? " shows what happens with a fusible link and NO 10amp fuse. I just replaced the wire last week, and installed the line fuse.

My reason for sugesting a fuseable link over a fuse is that when done properly a fuseable ling can disapear in a factory correct type restoration where as a fuse cut into the wires are more visable,

 

[magicv8]

IH2LOSE: Yes the link can be hidden if you want to chop the harness. I bolted mine to the harness lug and wrapped it separate, to keep it from harming the harness wires if it burns - that way I replace the link and my harness is undamaged. The link does not prevent the pink ignition line from burning through the harness wrap and the insulation of neighboring wires in the harness.

IMO, on a "correct" show car - work hard to hide the fuse, or live without protection. If your bank account rates replacing the harness as a cost effective alternative and an enjoyable weekend experience (after having your car towed home), be as correct as you can. I like fuses. They keep me from having to refill my expensive Halon extinguisher.