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Spindle removal from trailing arm

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zeke68
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Zeke68

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I am replacing the trailing arms on my 68, I have them out and have removed the castle nut and flange that slides on the splines of the spindle and connects to the u joints. The spindle does not want to move and before I put any pressure on it I wanted to be sure I am going in the right direction. The manuels I have don't give very good direction on this.
 
Unless you've got the specific tools for disassembly, measurement capability for precise bearing clearances, reassembly and a big press, don't even attempt it.

Send them off as-is to one of the specialists and let them do it.:beer
 
Here is the thread I wrote on the entire job. As Mike said if you don't have the tools you may want to farm them out. I build a lot of them but even I get odd ball things happening at times. I just did a set of arms over the weekend and found a difference in the Mobil 1 grease I use. This caused a false reading and took me a while to figure out the grease was the cause, if this happened to a first timer it may have driven them mad!

DigitalCorvettes.com - 63-82 Rear Trailing Arm Rebuilding

Use a spindle kocker and drive out the spindle. That's how I do most of them now. Be sure the spindle threads are good before and afterwards.
 
Thanks Gary, I wanted to make sure I was on the right track before I put pressure on the spindle to remove it. Also I have heard the bearings can be a real challenge to remove. I know where I work we do industrial equip bearings and we freeze them in a nitrogen freezer to -312 degrees F and then place them. I always wonder how the guys in the field get them out, must have a big press or be good with a smoke wrench.
 
Once you drive out the spindle the inner bearing is free. That's what you're working against. The outer spindle require a bearing splitter, I have the one made to fit this job but a good Snap-On wall mounted pulling center will have the tools in the cabinet to make up a puller.
There are plenty of folks rebuilding these and some with some real gimmicks. You'll need the setup tool or old spindle so you can slip fit the bearings on and check the endplay. I wouldn't do the job with out access to a surface grinder but many do. I set them for the 0015-002 maybe 0025 max.
Good luck use good parts and USA bearings.
 
Thanks again for the great advice, even though I am a tool maker by trade there is no replacement for experience. I did buy Timken bearings and I do have a surface grinder. I also am following your method on mounting the rotors.
 
great you have the tools and experience. Follow the thread and you'll have the best built arms anywhere. Be sure to parallel grind the spacer first, you may find it out 005, grind the flange as well they both get distorted over time or beat up by previous "rebuilders"
 
Are you just replacing the T-arms or, in the process of a T-arm change, are you going to perform a needed rear bearing replacement?

If you just want to change the arms, you don't need to disassemble the rear bearings and axles. Just unbolt the bearing carriers from the arms and move them.
 
I am replacing the complete trailing arm, they were in terrible shape.
 
Will just a spindle knocker get the spindle out? How hard do u have to hit it and with a small sledge hammer?
I purchased a tool kit a few years back in anticipation of rebuilding my arms. Well, that time is here. It came with a spindle press. I have heard that using this tool sometimes breaks the bearing support. Is this true?:confused
Looking at some pics of other guys disassembled arms, it doesn't look all that complex (like a transmission) but maybe I'm wrong.
 
All I use is the knocker. I have a spindle press & install tool- never used either one~waste of money IMO.
You can follow my link,nothing is hard when you know how to do it and have the correct tools. I always use a surface grinder in my work to machine all the mating surfaces,I never use those shim kits or cheap bearings.
Good luck.
 
Hey Gary thanks for your expert opinion! :)
We will see how much the stock vette rear-end stuff can take pretty soon.....
540 big block :beer
 

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