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Stalled at 50MPH??

I

IndyPaceCar78

Guest
Greetings again fellow enthusiasts!

This morning, while driving my '87 to work, my card stalled at about 50 mph. This has NEVER happened, and I just recently took it on about a 2k mile road trip. The car has 76k original miles, and has always been VERY reliable with no problems.

I coasted into a parking lot, tryed to start it again with no success, then waited about 15 minutes, tried it again, and it fired right up. I turned around, drove it home, parked it for fear it might happen on the interstate, and got in my truck. I came home this afternoon, and it fired right up as always....

This was somewhat reminiscent of a prob I hadwith an '89 Grand Prix I had once, and it turned out to be the ECM (control module on the computer)

I was wondering if anyone else with an '87 or similar yr model has ever had this happen, and if so, what was the cause and remedy???

Thanks for any possible insight!

Indy!

:confused
 
My 89 has never done that. I wonder if your ignition coil could be failing. The coil on mine is located in the distributor cap. If the car just quit suddenly without any surging or backfire, total loss of ignition may be the culprit. Those intermitant problems are so hard to deal with!

I have the GM shop manual for my car. I will take a look tonight when I get home and see if the diagnostics table has any tips.

Good luck in finding that problem.

Regards,
Radar :hb
 
If the coil is bad, replace the ignition module while you're there. ;)

_ken :w
 
Check the inside of your Distributor cap for moisture and corrosion . At that milage you might consider changeing all the usual ignition stuff . Cap , rotor, wires , plugs , coil and module .
 
Another Vote!

For Ignition! I agree Check the Cap/Rotor Change the plugs Change the Coil and module!

My soultions always sound extreme (Money wise) but ya know this is how I do stuff LOL Like in your case it COULD be the module or it COULD be the coil Lol.

If you have a few miles on your car and all your stuff is stock, splurge and spend the 150 bucks and just replace the system. Also that way you'll never have ANOTHER part fail on you leaving you stranded.

Like I said Im extreme but usually when one part go's the others aren't far behind.
 
Acutally hehehe... WHILE your in there and spending a little moola upgrade! LOL

Good luck :crazy :beer :L
 
Pull codes??

My 92 was stalling, and it was caused by a bad coolant sensor. Without accurate data, the computer was flooding the engine-on the freeway and also when stopped.

Just another $.02
Mike
 
The first item to come to mind for this sympton would be loss of fuel. Fuel pump relay, wiring etc.

Ignition coil going south intermittently is extremely rare
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys!

I'll take a look under the hood today and pull the cap and take a little look/see.

I went to start it yesterday it started, then died, tried it again, and it started, and I pulled it back in the garage. Hopefully will be something low maintenance, but like someone said, these kind of eratic probs are sometimes the toughest to diagnose. Beautiful day here, so I hope to get it corrected, wash it up again, drop the top, and head out!

I'll keep ya posted on what I find/don't find!

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions!

Indy
 
what year of car was that topless

i just got my vavles adjusted,, i will see tomorrow if it fixes the huge horse power loss
 
Indy, Due to the trend lately in other threads, you might want to also investigate your VATS system.

Spiderman :w
 
Well, still haven't determined what the prob is yet Grrrrrrrr

Anyway, Spiderman, thanks for the suggestion about the VATS. I had read that, and another post about eratic starts... which is what mine is also doing now!

I'll keep plugging away until I find it!


Thanks for the advice!

Indy!
 
IndyPaceCar78 said:
Well, still haven't determined what the prob is yet Grrrrrrrr

Anyway, Spiderman, thanks for the suggestion about the VATS. I had read that, and another post about eratic starts... which is what mine is also doing now!

I'll keep plugging away until I find it!


Thanks for the advice!

Indy!


let us know if its the VATS. I will eat my Hat !!!]
 
IndyPaceCar78 said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys!

I'll take a look under the hood today and pull the cap and take a little look/see.


what is it you are looking for?
 
Not the VATS

Once the car is running, forget about the VATS. Did the peddle just go slack? To me it sounds like fuel. Have you replaced the fuel filter lately? Especially since it fired right up after 15 min. I would change it out--not to mention it is probably the cheapest option.
--Drew:w
 
I can understand were you're coming from as I'm having a similar problem on my 84', though my miss only lasts for a few seconds. If you do find the problem, please email me, and I will do the same! I'm getting ready to replace my ECM, and just ordered a rebuilt unit from the dealer.
 
Zora1 said:
I can understand were you're coming from as I'm having a similar problem on my 84', though my miss only lasts for a few seconds. If you do find the problem, please email me, and I will do the same! I'm getting ready to replace my ECM, and just ordered a rebuilt unit from the dealer.

pretty expensive guess !!!!

hint: try monitoring fuel pressure
 
Fueling around (1987 right, not the 78)

1st) Buy a Fuel pressure gauge ( About 40 bucks) hook it up ( Shrader valve on fuel rail... about 5 seconds to connect)

Turn the key on... but DO NOT CRANK!

The pump should wind up for a few seconds

Fuel pressure should be roughy 35psi or greater.

If not...it's the pump.. or a relay in line...or other electrical gremlin.

Now START the car... watch the pressure gauge... still holdin?

The Oil pressure sender has a "T" on it the other side of the "T" has the fuel pump switch on it..... so when the cars running...AND the oil pressure goes to LOW the switch OPENS and cuts power to the pump... no fuel... no run.

The orange ( Batt power ) & the red ( Switch output ) Forces the fuel pump relay closed.

This switch ( sender ) is located near the distrib... twds the firewall.. around the wiper motor... the connector faces up ( Backside )


SOOOOOO

If the cars running... and the oil pressure is UP and the fuel filters clean you should be around 35-42 psi ( at this point the ACTUAL pressure is NOT important as long as it's over 27 and UNDER 50)

If the fuel pressure is up & the car DIES while sitting there idleing.. then it's NOT the fuel system..... I would move to spark then.


Report back.....

Oh yeah sometimes the fuel sock ( screen ) in the tank get's clogged REALLY BAD... If the pump has OVER 75K on the clock and if you look down the tank and it's kinda funky down there and you suspect the car has lived OUTSIDE most of it's life... I would suspect the pump...THEN just for good measure I would replace the pump relay.


Vig!
 
More Fuel for the fire

As far as the ECM goes ( Limiting the conversation to the fuel pump control)

ALL the ECM does is when your cranking is give a 5 second or so command to the pump to fire it up so you may have a prime ( pressure) in the fuel rail.


GM suspected that over time the injectors would leak down a bit..... this gets you up to FULL pressure during Start... and unless the OIL PRESSURE came up.. the fuel pump would not CONTINUE to run...

This function ( the continue to run part) is EXTERNAL of the ECM's control... and hard wired.

Buying a NEW ECM to fix this problem ( unless your pump doesn't fire up in the ON position for the few seconds) is a waste of $$$$$$$$


Use science....it ROCKS!

Vig!
 

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