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Steering Column Lock - Solution???

I just had a problem with my 01 Z06. The car is stranded right now...Can I jump start the car to get it home?...It would seem like voltage from the car jumping should be high enough to allow the column to unlock.

Mike
 
Update...Tried to start the car, about 3 hours later...same problem car started but steering column would NOT unlock. Connected jumper cables to running vehicle, car started and steering column DID unlock. Drove the car home tried again column would unlock. The car has never had the recall performed.

Will the dealer still perform the recall, since the car is almost 10 years old? I think I should plan on a new battery too.


Mike
 
Theres no more recall on your vehicle.

If you replace the battery with a 78-6yr, you would not need to do anything else.

Make sure the terminals are TIGHT to 11 ft lbs.

Allthebest, c4c5
 
I've also run into this problem today. I never thought it would affect me but the problems I could have had over the past 3 years of owning the car seem to have all appeared in this 4th year. Kinda feels that way anyhow.

The worst part is that i took time off for a LONG road trip out to British Columbia from Ontario, passing through the US. Now i have no idea if i should cancel my road trip plans because of this new issue. I fear bringing my car to the local (supposedly authorised Corvette) dealership due to their shaky-at-best record with diagnosing problems with my car.

Now for the summary. The recall on my car has been done. The battery voltage hovers between 11.8 and 11.9. It's an optima redtop 720CCA 90RC. The voltage has been steady at this rate for a long time now, and i have not had the lock issue until this afternoon. Oddly, i tried starting the car just a few minutes ago and the lock issue dissapeared. I have had issues with my battery in the past, but i think it was a loose/dirty ground that caused an overnight dead battery. I have not had problems since.

I am torn on what to do. CLB or dealer? I have a week and a half before my road trip and i fear that i will be cancelling it because of this.
 
Vettepirate, I would say check your battery first to make sure it is fully charged, and is torqued to 11 ft lbs as c4c5specialist says. Then go from there. I personally just went through all of this with mine and ended up doing the CLB, no issues after the install.
 
It's worth mentioning that the battery is well over 12.4 while the car is running, the 11.9 was only with the key in the ON position.

I recently changed my plugs/wires but i have not had any problems up until now so i'm lead to believe they aren't the culprits.

I will try to get a torque wrench so i can get the proper tightness on the battery studs. Maybe it can be the first and last thing i try.

Thanks.
 
HI there,

Either your calibration for your cluster is off by a long shot or your battery/alternator system is having an issue.

That is WAY TOO LOW.

Allthebest, c4c5
 
I know that the alternator was replaced before i owned the car. The voltage at idle is 13.7V.

I've started the car several more times since this afternoon and the problem has not showed again. I will keep starting it periodically and i will drive it to work which is minimum risk if the issue comes up again.
 
Happened while being painted...

First off, I am Joe from Rancho Cordova CA and have just joined...
I have a 98 convertible...mostly stock except SS exhaust and chromed newer model wheels...

Anyway....
The body shop called and said they had a problem, and getting the steering lock message and pull key...
Lucky they could still drive it around as long as they didn't go too fast because the steering lock plate was removed...
Started by pulling the fuses and that didn't work bought a brand new battery from the dealer and still nothing...Had the car taken home on a flatbed... and then had time to look at it on my time...Then I removed the panel below the steering and got rid of the CLB and hooked it back up as original and problem solved...it started and drove fine again...Glad I found this site! Thanks to C4C5 specialist for where to start! ***

***I noticed when I was buying my battery there was a 7 year 800CCA battery as well...But, when I told they parts guy I wanted him to make sure it was a 120 RC, he came back with the 6 year 700CCA battery and said that the other one didn't have the RC I wanted... It was 100??? So that means it starts out stronger but dies out a lot sooner right Paul???

BTW: My paint job came out really bad...I go to war on Monday...:mad
 
service column loc message

I just had this problem with the service steering column lock message a couple weeks back. I was sitting in the car for an hour and a half waiting to pick wife up from work, and listening to the radio. When I went to start the car it would not start at first. gave it another try, and it barely started. The error message appeared, and car was trying to stall out on me, and running real rough. All the tire pressure sensors ahd no readings. The battery was 5 years old, so I bought a new one. That seemed to take care of all the issues. I did some research on here, and found a video where a GM techician is discussing this issue. The error message is due to low voltage. (falling below10 volts) The BCM can not sense the position of the key, and initiates column lock and shutoff. He also goes into great detail on the requirements for reserve capacity, and all the AC delco part numbers. Getting a battery with the incorrect reserve capacity results in premature battery failure. An interesting thing is that probably is why I experienced my original battery failing after only 2 years. They did not install the correct battery originaly. The dealer replaced battery for free, but again failed to use the correct part number. Lucky for me it lasted as long as it did.
The GM technician also states that 90 percent of the service column lock message is the result of failed battery. When the battery is not the culprit, it usually turns out to be a column lock relay.
One wierd thing I wonder about is why I was able to drive the car. The column did not lock up, or shut down. It just spewed out error messages, and tried stalling. After a few minutes pumping the gas, it calmed down and ran smooth like it should.
With a new battery, all my issues are resolved. Car runs great. Just wondering how long this new battery will last. Bought a duralast gold this time. Not impressed with AC delco. (original battery had internal shorts) AC delco sucks!!!! I am finding the quality of a lot of their parts is lacking. HVAC controller failing- cracked solder joints on surface mount components, Headlight motors failure- due to poor design- They use plastic gears that warp and wear out. I rebuilt mine and put in brass gears. Also had to re-furbish the internal wiring of headlight motor. I wonder how many more of my AC delco parts are going to fail on me.
 
I just had this problem with the service steering column lock message a couple weeks back. I was sitting in the car for an hour and a half waiting to pick wife up from work, and listening to the radio. When I went to start the car it would not start at first. gave it another try, and it barely started. The error message appeared, and car was trying to stall out on me, and running real rough. All the tire pressure sensors ahd no readings. The battery was 5 years old, so I bought a new one. That seemed to take care of all the issues. I did some research on here, and found a video where a GM techician is discussing this issue. The error message is due to low voltage. (falling below10 volts) The BCM can not sense the position of the key, and initiates column lock and shutoff. He also goes into great detail on the requirements for reserve capacity, and all the AC delco part numbers. Getting a battery with the incorrect reserve capacity results in premature battery failure. An interesting thing is that probably is why I experienced my original battery failing after only 2 years. They did not install the correct battery originaly. The dealer replaced battery for free, but again failed to use the correct part number. Lucky for me it lasted as long as it did.
The GM technician also states that 90 percent of the service column lock message is the result of failed battery. When the battery is not the culprit, it usually turns out to be a column lock relay.
One wierd thing I wonder about is why I was able to drive the car. The column did not lock up, or shut down. It just spewed out error messages, and tried stalling. After a few minutes pumping the gas, it calmed down and ran smooth like it should.
With a new battery, all my issues are resolved. Car runs great. Just wondering how long this new battery will last. Bought a duralast gold this time. Not impressed with AC delco. (original battery had internal shorts) AC delco sucks!!!! I am finding the quality of a lot of their parts is lacking. HVAC controller failing- cracked solder joints on surface mount components, Headlight motors failure- due to poor design- They use plastic gears that warp and wear out. I rebuilt mine and put in brass gears. Also had to re-furbish the internal wiring of headlight motor. I wonder how many more of my AC delco parts are going to fail on me.

First off Welcome Joe and Mark to CAC.

Mark, I am assuming that the videos you speak of are the ones that I took this summer at CruiseFest of C4C5specialist (Paul Koerner). Yes he dispels many myths about column lock issues. There have been so many threads (both here and on other sites) about this issue I decided to video Paul's views. I am glad that you got the information that you needed and that it was the right info to fix the problem.
 
First off Welcome Joe and Mark to CAC.

Mark, I am assuming that the videos you speak of are the ones that I took this summer at CruiseFest of C4C5specialist (Paul Koerner). Yes he dispels many myths about column lock issues. There have been so many threads (both here and on other sites) about this issue I decided to video Paul's views. I am glad that you got the information that you needed and that it was the right info to fix the problem.
Thanks Tom, that video was great. I kind of wish there were a lot more like it in the technical sections. How to videos would also be a good thing. I wonder if anyone can get their hands on any of the official GM training videos, or power points used to train GM technicians, and post them here. That would be great.
 
STEERING COLUMN LOCK but UNLOCKED

It seems all posts over the year on this topic depict the more typical colmun is locked scenario.
However I have a low mileage 98 that does much track time and I now have the inverse problem and wondered if anyone was familiar with. I did NOT have the dealer recall performed!
My column is fully UNLOCKED and will not lock ok,, but same PCM code of "Service Steering Column" and "Wait Pull Key".....Fuel is shut off if I attempt to move vehicle.
My question is in regards to the "Simulators" everyone uses and available everywhere.
I am assuming that the simulator would work in this situation as well as it bypasses the factory lock solenoid, again I aessum whether the pin is stuck in or out. Wanted to kow if my thought process made sense or anyone else have had the same. I also had some concern of what once bypassed could the stuck solenoid pin ever spring back in (assuming just stuck) and lock the wheel unexpectantly.
 
first C5- how to see if SCL was done

Hi all,
I'm an old Vette guy-owned 6 C4's & C3's over last 35+ years but just buying my first C5.
Is there a quick and dirty way (short of taking apart the knee bolsters/lower dash panels) to check if the GM SCL recall was done??
it's a 2000 Vert, 6spd, and was hoping there is a GM database that I can access to check on this. Also if the CLB was installed by one of the previous 2 owners any way to look up or thru something to check this?
Old guys don't do well laying under dashboards for estended periods y'know- not as flexible as we used to be.
Thanx for any help and I'll probably be back to research the other gremlins on the 5 that I'm not used to dealing with- if it gets too bad I may have to just go back to another 4 ;)

Rich R
 
... Is there a quick and dirty way (short of taking apart the knee bolsters/lower dash panels) to check if the GM SCL recall was done?? it's a 2000 Vert, 6spd, and was hoping there is a GM database that I can access to check on this...

Personally, I'd start with my local GM/Chevy dealer; usually they can print out a service record of everything that was done to the vehicle -- presuming the work of interest was performed by a GM dealership, of course...
 
Texas T, welcome to CAC. I have not heard of your particular issue before, but I would assume that the answers would be similar. Still the first thing that should be checked should be the status and health of your battery, if all checks out there then move on to the next issue. Have you watched the videos that I posted (see link below)? If worse comes to worse, I can PM Paul and try to have him step you through the process.

Ol Rich, Timfitz63 has given you the best alternative.....go to your local Chevrolet dealer and have them run the VIN in their system to find out what has been performed on your car.
 
checked recall

thanx guys for the advice on SCL work done- I had Chevy dealer run the VIN and found that the SCL work (reprogram) was done in 2004 on the car - which is a 2000. also headlite actuator replacement and air solenoid in 2002 and 2003. So I evidently had the GM recall done on the car 7 years ago, and no reports of further issues. BTW the car has a fairly new (12/09) Optima RedTOP battery, and everything seems to work ok. Well, that is except for the HVAC display going dim (yes I have read all the posts on that fix and probably willl go the LED route instead of just resoldering the resistors). So since the majority of the SCL problems seem to be low voltage related, is it worth it to get under the dash, disconnect anything GM (K-Harness) installed and put in the CLB??
thanx again, I have to go look for stuff on the runflats now as the sales dlr installed 4 new runflats (2 Pirelli's on front and 2 Yoko's on rear) - so I'm guessing the Yokos will be gone long before the P's and I can match thel all up. but that's a different thread.:w
 
Rich, I think that you will want to watch the videos I posted on VetteTube.

Have you actually tested the battery? Checked it's rated specs and actual performance output, against the specs Paul says it needs to have? Just because it's a fairly new battery doesn't necessarily mean that it's within specs. And as far as the Column Lock Bypass goes, again watch the videos, Paul is very clear that that can cause problems with the BCM, to the point of failure.
 
13.80 to 14.4 is the normal range. . . . . . . Yeah it is!

-Bill
 
Help-help-help

How do I access this video, presently having problem steering column is locked up now, get message from DIC pull key and wait 10 seconds and service steering column, need help what to check first please.

Thanks,
-Bill
 

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