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Steering Wheel Play

Ryan536

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
51
Location
Eastern Ontario
Corvette
1973 Black Stingray
After alot of work the last two years I am finally able to drive the Vette again only to put it away for the winter. Some of the stuff I did was replacing front springs and shocks as well as a new power stering cylinder and lines. I got a few drives in and I know I need an alignment. I'm not doing that until the spring (too much money spent this year).
One thing that I notice is that when I turn the steering wheel for a corner it travels an inch or two before it actually starts steering the car.
It's been so long I can't remember if this is normal for it or is it because it needs an alignment or is it a steering box? My mechanic said everything is tight underneath.
The car likes to "wander" so I'm hoping that an alignment fixes everything.

Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
 
Could be that the steering box has some play , either a rebuild or a new one will solve the problem. Could be the rag join too...
Easy way to check is turn the wheel and check how the shaft in the engine bay to the PS box acts.
 
I have the exact same problem in my 69. I have manual steering though.
The front suspension is original though and pretty rough looking. I was also concerned it may be the steering box in mine. Is there a way to check on manual steering for problems?
thanks
 
You may be able to take some out of the play from your steering box (if that's where the slop is). Just loosen the lock nut on the top, us a big flat blade screwdriver to tighten the screw on top, then re-tighten the lock nut. It helps to move the wheel through it's full range of motion after each adjustment to make sure it "settles" then check again. The screw doesn't move that much for the adjustment to be effective (1/8-1/4 turn). Don't tighten it too much or you may bind up the gear box...
This is something on my list of things to do, and it should take less than 5 minutes.
 
Does that work for both power and non power steering shrekviper?
 
The steering gear boxes are different part numbers (power/manual), but they have almost identical layout. They both have the lock nut and adjusting screw on top. I haven't done it on a manual, but it works on a power steering car. That's assuming the play is in the gear box and not the rag joint or somewhere else below the box. Have someone move your steering wheel with the car running (for power) in the "play zone" and see if the input shaft moves. If it does, check the output for movement. If the out put shaft moves with the play, it's not your gearbox. If no movement, it's somewhere there. It's worth the 5 minutes to try it before you start rebuilding or replacing the gearbox. Let us know how it works out.
 
Now that I think about it, you can do the gearbox check w/o the car running since it's independent of the pwr strng.
 
If your C3 needs a bunch of front end repairs, befor you start check out the rack&pinion conversion. Conversion is a bolt in and car needs no modifications so it could be put back stock if for some reason you wanted to. If you add up a fresh steering box, tie rod ends, etc. price is about the same.
 
My mechanic was mentioning about adjusting the steering box but I thought it was only on the 1960's GM boxes that it could be done.
Thanks.... I'll start there since it would be the cheapest route!!!!
 
That screw is not for adjusting play on the box...

The nut and screw adjust Worm bearing Preload and Sector shaft mesh. NOTE! The steering gear must be out of the vehicle to adjust it on all 1974 and later Saginaw rotary gear units. The earlier models can be adjusted (sector shaft preload) on vehicle.

This is how GM's Saginaw division recommends the adjustment be done.
  • Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft
  • Completely back off the sector shaft adjusting screw on the sector shaft cover.
  • Center steering on the "high point" then attach an inch lb torque wrench to the steering wheel shaft. The torque required to keep the shaft moving for one complete turn should be 1/2 - 2 in lbs. If the torque is not within these limits, loosen the thrust bearing locknut or tighten the valve sleeve adjuster plug to bring the preload within limits.
  • Tighten the thrust bearing locknut and recheck preload.
  • Slowly rotate the steering shaft several times then center the steering on high point.
  • Turn the sector shaft adjusting screw until a steering shaft torque of 3-6in. lbs. more is required to move the worm through the center point.
  • Tighten the sector shaft locknut to 35ft. lbs. and recheck the sector mesh adjustment. Total steering gear preload should be 14in. lbs. or less.
  • Install the pitman arm and place the unit back into vehicle.
WARNING - To try and adjust the sector shaft screw without doing the preceding WILL DAMAGE the steering gear. Most of the play is not in the sector shaft adjustment, it is in the spool valve area.
 
Thanks for the update Rodney Gold. I didn't know there was a difference in the years...mine being a '69. I'm glad there's smarter people than me on this Forum...
 
Thanks for the update Rodney Gold. I didn't know there was a difference in the years...mine being a '69. I'm glad there's smarter people than me on this Forum...

The procedure outlined above is for the Saginaw integral power steering gear, which was never used on Corvettes. '63-'82 Corvettes used only one steering gear, whether they had manual or power steering; the power boost was a completely separate system, and had nothing to do with the steering gear.

:beer
 
The issue is that that nut/screw on the top of the steering box is NOT for play adjustment - it does "work" for a while , and can lead to steering bind on full lock if overdone and has cost me a power steering box on my 1980!!!
 
I see a lot of mis-information here. I custom rebuild these units and can tell you I have had to replace many gear sets from over adjustment procedures. Following some of those listed will cause you problems.

Here are some facts:
As John Z mentioned the vette boxes are unique to corvette and the box is the same for both PS and manual cars.

There is an on the car adjustment procedure but I don't recommend it.The best way to adjust it is with the box out. chances are you're going to need more then an adjustment as well. Some of these boxes are sloppy. Attempting to adjust it without a 0-30 in/lb dial TW is a waste of time and money. Fish scales and clickers are not the correct tool to use.

Manual steering cars get beat up more then PS so chances are someone already "adjusted" it. Look at the lash screw in the top and see if there are any threads showing above the nut. If not then your gears are done.

MANY of the rebuilt boxes on the market are cheap rebuilds and not worth the $130-$180 charged. I have repaired many of these already. Most consist of a paint job and over greasing. I rarely find the internal parts replaced and there is no way new gears are in any of those jobs.
In my updated thread on boxes I show where one rebuilder welded the gears and another installed the worm nut upside down. Not the type of work I would recommend.

I suspect the recent modification of installing aftermarket or other make boxes is a result of the current lousy work on stock boxes. In fact a properly rebuilt box,blueprinted beyond the typical specs preforms 100% better then a stock box and 1000X better then a common rebuild. In addition they fit the car without modifications and hold a higher value if the car is sold. I'd put a BP box up against any others.

Now as mentioned and it was good advice, check the suspension and rag joint. The parts should be tight. Center the box with the car in the air and have someone move the wheel while you look at the rag and box input. There should be no lost motion with the box on-center. Off center- yes. Rag should not be "S" shaped,ripped, or dry rotted. Rag rebuild kits on the market are cheap junk, use only a new GM rag or if you have a 63-66 have that one rebuilt by the place that does them for the vendors. You can PM for that link so we don't PO anyone.

The large lock ring secures the nut which sets the preload. The bearing preload should be 3-5 in/lbs. With new gears I set them at 5, with rebuilt worm or original they will be lower. Once the preload is set then set the lash. If you adjust the lash off center you will wreck the gear in time.

I suggest you look up my thread and link on boxes before you attempt any adjustments, but it is your car so good luck. If you need help let me know. The boxes I build are the best anywhere. Many are surprised just how good a properly setup box,suspensions and alignment can make a vette handle. I can't tell you how many times I've heard old cars just didn't handle or brake well. Those same people never drove a good vette I guess.
 
When I grab the rag joint I can turn the steering wheel like 3/4 of an inch is that normal?

You want to address that asap. Use only the GM rag if the play is indeed in the rag. The $100 spent is worth it, believe me.
 
Ryan, there's a lot of good info here and I agree with most of it.
While I went with a rack & pinion conversion and love it, if your biggest concern is slop in the wheel, a properly functioning OEM setup should feel just about the same as an r&p setup.
A note about the Steeroids...it decreases the turning radius of the car ever so slightly. Kind of annoying, but I got used to it. If you still want to consider an r&p conversion, check out VB&P's "Rack Attack". From what I've seen, they've taken the Steeroids concept and improved on it in a few areas.
 
yea I think it (the play) must be in the gear box I can watch the shaft on the top of the box move like a 1/4 inch but that translates to like 3/4 on the out side of the steering wheel
 
That can be adjusted if there is still some threads showing. Look over my thread or contact me if you like.
 

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