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The infamous power antenna not working

Baldie88

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2002
Messages
551
Location
Waterloo, IL USA
Corvette
2016 triple black vert.
I did a search on power antenna but I'm still confused. By the way the car is an 88 coupe.

Antenna runs up fine but won't go all the way down. About 6" sticking up. Sounds like the motor is still running and there is a clicking sound so I think that means the tape has some gears stripped off.

How hard of a job is it to replace the tape, if that's all I need to do, or do I just replace the whole thing? I'd rather only do this once so I'm leaning on replacing the whole thing. But then I looked at Ecklers and it looks like the whole replacement is $220! :eek:hnoes

Need advice.

Ron
"Baldie88"
 
I did a search on power antenna but I'm still confused. By the way the car is an 88 coupe.

Antenna runs up fine but won't go all the way down. About 6" sticking up. Sounds like the motor is still running and there is a clicking sound so I think that means the tape has some gears stripped off.

How hard of a job is it to replace the tape, if that's all I need to do, or do I just replace the whole thing? I'd rather only do this once so I'm leaning on replacing the whole thing. But then I looked at Ecklers and it looks like the whole replacement is $220! :eek:hnoes

Need advice.

Ron
"Baldie88"

It is just as much work to rebuild the power ant as it is to replace it. I too was a little bummed out at the price of supposedly OEM antennas, so I used a generic unit for the auto parts store for $80. The difference is minimal, there is a little bit of wiring to figure out, but pretty simple. The single biggest difference is that the generic unit sometimes does not fit 100% flush with the body on top....the seal is a little taller and the seal with antenna tip (about 1/8" altogether) sits on top of the body.
 
I never use my radio and my antenna still works but it cant close itself the whole way. So I have to help it. I wired in a switch to shut if off and I can still turn on the radio and use the cass/cd player. I hear wiping WD40 on it will help prolong the life of the antenna.
 
I never use my radio and my antenna still works but it cant close itself the whole way. So I have to help it. I wired in a switch to shut if off and I can still turn on the radio and use the cass/cd player. I hear wiping WD40 on it will help prolong the life of the antenna.

I was planning on doing that, for the same reasons. Where did you break into the antenna power wire? near the stereo or run a wire to the antenna?
I was thinking of an "interrupt" switch coming off the harness to the tuner if I can figure out which one supplies power to the mast...
 
I was thinking of an "interrupt" switch coming off the harness to the tuner if I can figure out which one supplies power to the mast...
Just put a cut off switch on the pink relay control wire

Antenna.jpg
 
Just put a cut off switch on the pink relay control wire

Antenna.jpg


OK, cool!
Thanks for the tip.....thats been on my list for weeks. even saved a rocker switch on my dash for the antenna.. Be on it this weekend.
 
I looked at my antenna problem again last night and since the motor seems to be working fine I'm just going to replace the mast. Ordered one from Mid America last night and it looks like a fairly easy job to replace. Of course they have never seen me work on a car before!;LOL

Wish me luck.

Ron
"Baldie88"
 
How to replace a C4 Corvette antenna mast

by Julian Shipp

Here are the instructions for removing the power antenna motor for service BEFORE installing a new antenna mast on 1992-1996 Corvettes.

The power antenna motor is visible from underneath the vehicle if you lay on your back and look at it from the driver's side of your car. Please protect your eyes from dirt and other particles that may fall from your fender well while you are working! Some people have opted to place their vehicles on jack stands and remove the driver's side rear wheel first, but I have long arms and did not have to do so.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Note the way the motor is oriented as installation is the exact order of removal. The motor is held in place on its mounting bracket by two screws. Use either a socket wrench with an extension or a screwdriver with a ratchet to remove the bolts. Note that one of the bolts has a ground/power wire for the antenna.

2. With these two bolts loosened, you will be able to pull the antenna down toward you enough to loosen the antenna gain and positive power wires located at the top of the unit. With all these wires removed, the entire assembly can be pulled down for access while leaving the wires that leads inside the motor housing intact.

3. With the unit now in your hand, roll up the black rubber sleeve that protects the unit from moisture, dirt, etc. There are approximately four, Phillips head screws that hold the cover on the motor housing. Remove these screws. Also, remove the center nut that holds the antenna flywheel in place. With the cover off, you will see the flywheel and the main gear that raises and lowers the nylon antenna ribbon. You will also more than likely find bits or long sections of your OLD ribbon. Remove them.

4. Now is the time to lubricate the main gear and flywheel with either Vaseline or white lithium grease to ensure years of trouble-free operation with your new ribbon.

5. Replace the flywheel (noting its direction) and screw the cover back into place. Re-install the antenna, connect all the wiring, and hook your battery back up. Turn on the ignition and radio and listen to see if the motor runs. If it does, you are ready to install your new mast.

Just follow the directions that came with it and you should be in great shape. Above all, be patient. It took me about four hours the first time I did this because I thought you had to remove the license plate, tail lamps and back up lamps to get to the motor. You don't!

I could now do the whole thing again in 30 to 40 minutes (but hopefully not on MY LT-1 any time soon!) :thumb
 
Just put a cut off switch on the pink relay control wire

Antenna.jpg

Yup, that is what I did. I put mine back by the antenna itself. The harness can be accessed by removing the rear hatch plastic trim. My switch is hidden behind the corner of the carpet in the hatch. Since I never use it and only turn it on to wipe WD40 on it a few times a year it keeps everything stock looking and neat. Plus it was easier.
 
Thanks for the write-up on the replacing the antenna mast. I've got it printed off and sitting on my workbench waiting for the mast to come in from MAD.

Ron
"Baldie88"
 
Thanks for the write-up on the replacing the antenna mast. I've got it printed off and sitting on my workbench waiting for the mast to come in from MAD.

Ron
"Baldie88"

Remember, those instructions are for removing the entire motor assembly prior to installing the new mast.

A lot of people make the mistake of trying to install the new mast before removing the broken bits of old ribbon jammed inside the motor assembly.

The result is a new mast that won't fully retract or raise fully.
 
I did it!

Finally got around to replacing my antenna mast yesterday. Naturally it didn't go as planned. There was no large nut that would fit the wrench supplied with the antenna from MAD. Since a previous owner swapped out the original radio, maybe they changed the antenna also.

Anyway after figuring out how to get the small nut off, the mast did not come out all the way. Instructions say not to pull on the mast but that was the only way to get it totally out.

Got the new one started and it worked the first time! Miracles do happen.

And no I did not disassemble the motor. I figured it was just slipping a couple of teeth since the only problem was not totally retracting, leaving about 3" of mast. Checked the old one after I got it out and it looked like just some worn teeth and nothing missing so I guess I got lucky this time.

Thanks for all your suggestions. This site has really helped me throughout the years.

Ron
"Baldie88"
 

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