Thermostat poll, 160 vs 180

[Mart]

Never though this thread would last this long, very cool, and an interesting read.

Thanks to everyone that took the time for input.

Keep it coming.

Mart

 

[Schrade]

The 160 will open at 160.

It will not keep the engine at 160. To do that, you would have to have the fan also come on at 160 - the same fan that now comes on at 228, and stays on until the coolant temp is at 220 (or 218?). If the fan came on at 228, and stayed on, I don't think it could take it down to 160, even with the stat open, and extra coolant allowed to begin flowing.

All a 160 will do is increase the operating range from 160 - 228, instead of 195 (spec stat I think).

A 160 will increase warm-up time, and the engine will not get to closed loop as soon with a 160.

If you want to keep your engine cooler, by lowering the TOP range temp (228), then you need to modify fan activation parameters, or add a fan, or something else, besides the 160 stat. That will NOT LOWER the UPPER END OF THE OPERATING RANGE.

[/thread]

Edit:
I just read an early post (first 2 pages) in this thread, and I'm raisin' the flag.

You know who you are... You should take that stuff outta' here.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Not been an issue with me. . . . . . . . . .

I like to spend more time driving mine than trying to redesign something that someone smarter than I came up with. I figure those GM engineers have more tools @ their disposal than I do! Mine will run in the 200 degree range, sometimes in town @ slow speeds she will hit the 215 range with the fans on even, hit the open road and run around 190 or so, I've been told and read that this is normal that's pretty much all I need to know; it's my job to drive it and enjoy it leave the technicial stuff up to the experts.

Drive it like you stole it if it boils over and runs out the over flow then I will do something until then I see no problems with it.

Bill

 

[joshwilson3]

Maybe just put in a Robershaw 195 stat? It is supposed to help the car run cooler as it is supposed to the more coolant flow compared to a poppet stat.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

I just read something on a site that clarified a lot of stuff you just mentioned about the temps.
Automotive Cooling Systems -* A Short Course on How They Work

Interesting read, back to the basics but a good reminder how it all works together, good refresher

Bill

 

[bucket]

Well I have seen a lot of threads on this but no definite answers, so maybe a poll will help, mainly because I am in my garage with a 160 in one hand and a 180 in the other.

lets see what you guys think.

Mart

i have a 180...i mean duh it's NOT going to run cooler than that anyway..lol
i also have an adjustable fan thermostat and added water wetter..
NOW.. i can idle in traffic( it's los angeles what else can you do.?) all afternoon, with AC on or off , and my temp never gets above 207..
maybe the coolest running C-4 on the planet...lol

 

[roger longman]

i have a 180...i mean duh it's NOT going to run cooler than that anyway..lol
i also have an adjustable fan thermostat and added water wetter..
NOW.. i can idle in traffic( it's los angeles what else can you do.?) all afternoon, with AC on or off , and my temp never gets above 207..
maybe the coolest running C-4 on the planet...lol

Why has this thread popped up again?.....Roger......OK.Now I see.

 

[KANE]

Why has this thread popped up again?.....Roger......OK.Now I see.

It happens... but it's all good!

 

[jonszr1]

i have zr1s so it may be different for you , but i run a 160 in the summer and 180 in the winter . c4s typicly run 14 degrees hotter than the thermastate opening .we also have a guy that custom builds stats and is now making a 165 stat so our zr1s will run between 178 -180. running zround 180 keeps the car from hitting the knock sensor as hard . when i drag race the car will run 2-3 tenth and 3 miles an hr slower when the temps get to 190. just food for thought

 

[joshwilson3]

i have zr1s so it may be different for you , but i run a 160 in the summer and 180 in the winter . c4s typicly run 14 degrees hotter than the thermastate opening .we also have a guy that custom builds stats and is now making a 165 stat so our zr1s will run between 178 -180. running zround 180 keeps the car from hitting the knock sensor as hard . when i drag race the car will run 2-3 tenth and 3 miles an hr slower when the temps get to 190. just food for thought

You must never have to flush the coolant if you're emptying the radiator twice a year to change a stat out.

A stat doesn't limit the temp the engine can get to. You put in that custom 165 stat, let it sit idle. And the temps will go on up to when the fans kick on. Which I believe is 228 degrees.

 

[tracksnblades1]

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZ
A 160 'stat will have absolutely no effect whatsoever on your summer engine operating temperature, as it's full open all the time anyway; the 'stat only controls MINIMUM operating temperature, like in the winter, when low ambient outside air temperature allows your radiator to cool the engine down to or below the 'stat rating. 160 degrees doesn't do you much good in cold weather when you need the heater to operate, and it also won't let the oil get hot enough to boil off condensation and blow-by contaminants which then stay in the engine, get acidic, and form sludge.

160 'stats were used in the old days (40+ years ago) when cheap alcohol-based anti-freezes were used, so the alcohol base wouldn't boil off; they have no place in a modern cooling system, and have no benefits at all (except to the people who sell them and tell people they will solve overheating problems - they won't).

While I don't always agree with John, this time I do. Man fix the problem don't Band-Aid it. Water shock, this is not instant on feed water being pumped into a 600# boiler. Like I've read in this ever growing and hard to keep up with thread, thermostats modulates. No instant on-offs. 160-180 in the winter who cares at 10 below zero, come on, whats the temperature in the lowest part of the radiator headed to the waterpump. Water shock? Research it. Thermostats are not designed nor can they increase the capacity of your radiator. Horsepower? The piston are aluminum aren't they? I thought the cam ground gm engineered pistons where designed to operate over a wide range of operating temperatures. Alaska to texas and more. Initially Cold piston are smaller, more piston to cylinder wall clearance. If you like the hp gains increase yours and suffer the consequences in longivety. A properly engineered piston will modulate (expand and contract) also in the bore as it encounters constantly changing combustion temperatures caused by constantly changing loads and thottle positions. Great thread. Fix the problem.

 

[jonszr1]

not when you have a custom proms that starts both fans @185 and turns them off @180as well as a fluidine radiator in all 3 cars

 

[jonszr1]

in myzr1s the oil temp @160 is 183 . AT 180 its 186.so it doesnt seem to affect it much . my blk 90 that i have drag raced at least 20 times a year for 10 yrs .that now has 155000 miles on her and going strong has had a 160 in her since i bought her with 34000miles. but our motors are built better than the lts No offence,so its up to the owner

 

[jonszr1]

To keep the engine healthy it needs to run at 195F so the oil burns off all the condensation & acids reducing emissions. Lower coolant temps say 180F will have no noticeable performance improvement. If a lower temp was true than NASCAR or F1 and many other race groups would lower there coolant temps.

i am sorry but you are comparing apples to oranges fi cars run 14000 rpms and there is no way they could run @180 same with nascar, they restrict airflow for areo reasons. race cars are a totally different venue and it isnt right or fair to try to use it in the argument here . condensation will burn off at any temp above 150 deg. what might cause condesation not to burn off is running the car for very short distances . if one runs the car for longer than 20 min it will burn off as long as its at 150 degrees and that comes from research from the oil companies

 

[jonszr1]

bottem line is if one doesnt like the temps getting to 230 then just have your prom altered so that the fans come on earlier . then the problem will be under better control . also owning a c4 mean we own a vaccume where everything on the road getts sucked up into the cooling tract. i have learned that once a year i take my radiator out and clean the fins , if you havent done that try it you wouldnt believe what you will find stuck to the radiator , that is usually the cause of all our overheating problems . i know its sad that we have to pull the radiator but its the way gm designed it . there are some of the aftermarker corvette dealers that sell a wire screen one can put over the opening to block some of the bigger junk that can go in ,but i have found that leaves just break down to smaller pieces and end up on the radiator anyway . i am not an expert on the subject just sharing what i have found out owning 3 c4s for over 10 years and what works for me . in the end it up to each person to decide what they want to do . have a great day

 

[tracksnblades1]

What does it mean then, when one is stuck in traffic for more than 1 hour. My fans start at even 170 and the temp still reaches 230. Capacity?

 

[jonszr1]

if it were me i would pull the radiator out and clean it i would be willing to be that its at least partially clogged

 

[jonszr1]

forgot to add , when i go to la and get caught in traffic none of my cars ever get over 210 even with the air on . as these cars get older and change hands the radiator gets neglected. it cant cool when its clogged , and it may not show up until you get stuck in traffic when the fans are the only air getting drawn in . one last thing radiators for our cars are pretty cheap about 150 and might be the easier way out if your radiator is really dirty

 

[tracksnblades1]

Nor do the 6 in my familys' garages, all with stock radiators fans and proms. Which again is no fix for capacity. It would be interesting to see if the advice in this thread would be accepted in the off-road equipment and heavy truck world.

 

[strokin383-c4]

Ive tried them all, overall long life and best performance aspect is a heavy duty balanced 180. If the temp is too close the thermostat goes into a open close loop. which may cause it to freeze, in L-98 you need the 180 because of your first two cylinders. I suggest a Mr. gasket balanced 180 HD. my car in 90 degree weather runs 185 all day.