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Traction for 500hp 383 stroker

  • Thread starter Thread starter fasterthanu
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fasterthanu

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Quick question to all you out there... F-bodies can use traction bars, to help with traction... What do we have? I am about to get my 500hp 383 stroker in my 76vette. I have a 700R4 trans, 4.11 gear, without 500hp I think traction would be an issue, but with it... I have a 2500 stallspeed convertor. Any tricks for traction besides racing slicks? I know, feel your car out, but, I don't know of any traction bars for us, so any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Only way I could get mine to hook up at the strip was to go to drag radials. While not full blown racing slicks, they can be driven on the street as they have some tread. As you increase traction, weak points get revealed. Like the driver's side halfshaft u-joint. Don't ask me how I know.:D Charles
 
I dont mean to sound like a smarta--,but if you give a steady diet of THRASHINGS, Traction will be the least of your problems. U-joints,half-shafts,spider gears will self-destruct!!!!! You will have a GREAT TIME until that happens!!!!!! HAVE FUN & BE CAREFUL!!:D
 
But if he has better traction than he can get better track times. We already know that his Vette can destroy blue ovals. ;) He might just want to hack away a couple tenths of a second on his ET.
 
lol. Yeah, I can't wait to see what goes out next. I have brandnew rear end, brand new 700R4, brand new driveshaft, and half shafts, but I KNOW something will go soon enough.. hehe... Guess, I gotta baby it, at least until I get some more money. ;) Especially now, since I have yet another little project... Just bought a 1970 removable rear window off of ebay today :) time to convert!!!

Stallion said:
But if he has better traction than he can get better track times. We already know that his Vette can destroy blue ovals. ;) He might just want to hack away a couple tenths of a second on his ET.
 
fasterthanu said:
lol. Yeah, I can't wait to see what goes out next. I have brandnew rear end, brand new 700R4, brand new driveshaft, and half shafts, but I KNOW something will go soon enough.. hehe... Guess, I gotta baby it, at least until I get some more money. ;) Especially now, since I have yet another little project... Just bought a 1970 removable rear window off of ebay today :) time to convert!!!
I converted my 77 last summer - let me know if you have any questions.
 
That's awesome. If I had a "flying-buttress" window then I would convert it so it's removable. With that and t-tops, its practically a convertible!! :D
 
reluctantly showing my ignorance here...but I think they run traction bars because they don't have fully independent rear suspension like we have.

Not sure what you can do besides take your tire pressure down low, like around 19-23lbs. (For the drag strip, not street driving).

Did you have your 700R4 built to handle that power? In their stock form they aren't meant to take that kind of power...(from what I've read).
 
You want low tire pressure so that you have more tire on the ground? But won't you have a blowout then?
 
Stallion said:
You want low tire pressure so that you have more tire on the ground? But won't you have a blowout then?
Not on the drag strip. That's why I qualified it as 'not for street use'.
You are correct. You'll have more surface area of the tire making contact upon launch, then as you getting rolling, it will "elongate"(?) itself (visualize top fuel cars doing their initial burn) and have enough (re: normal) contact patch when going down the strip.

On the street, having low tire pressure is very dangerous for many reason, but most notably because the tire will not correctly perform it's intended function(s), thus making it dangerous to drive on.
 
Love to have that 500hp traction problem lol! I agree, drag radials sound like a viable option. It is a tough position to be in, given the existing real wheel width.
 
Without flaring my wheel wells, whats the widest tire I could go with on my 76?
 
i have heard of guys getting 295/50/15's on stock set-up, you just need to move the parking brake line to the top of the trailing arm.

as for traction bars, you already have them, that is the function of the trailing arm. solid axle cars are known for axle wrap, when the rear axle starts turning. imagine the pumpkin yoke going up and down, traction bars limit the travel of the yoke and reduce the violent effects wrapping axle and spinning tires. you must have seen some punk in a pick-up ripping the tires and rear-end of the truck was bouncing and shaking like crazy. the two best bandaids are traction bars and automatic trannies. the auto just buffers the torque applied and the less shock helps keep the same amount of wrap in the axle resulting in more stable axle movement.
as for getting better traction with a Vette, you need a couple of things. new rear camber control arms, VB&P, VanSteel, DragVette, ect. all sell kits to help you out. the new camber angle matches the halfshaft angle, giving you far less camber swing in the suspension travel, result: more tire on the ground. going softer in the rear spring rate with allow the weight transfer to load the rear tires. more weight per square inch increases friction and limits tire slip. i like the VB&P dual mount spring kit, it allows quick and easy adjustments of spring rate between going to the track or going for smoke show cruises.
hope i did not confuse anyone, Brian
 

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