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Question: Transmission Change out using jack stands

I agree with Hib. Unless you can put one of those barb flares on the tubing, I'd stay away from clamped rubber hoses. The fluid in those lines isn't under a lot of pressure but it does get quite a bit hotter than coolant. Two of these compression fitting unions can be purchased online for $12:
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If the fittings cost much more than that, you might consider getting new lines. InlineTube.com sells pre-bent steel lines (with the stock fittings and swaged ends) for $45 and stainless for $65. Clean new lines aren't a bad idea when it comes to the transmission.
 
Will check with the auto parts store tomorrow about possible replacing the lines and fittings. Hope they have some in stock as we have a big work day planned. Flywheel is ready to go so hopefully we can get the transmission reinstalled.
 

Transmission is installed but I have a few minor problems to get complete the project. Wasn't to bad to get it in place. Slide it on a piece of card board under the tunnel. Placed a 4x4 under the torque converter and my helper and I raised the tail end and got the motorcycle jack under the pan. Lifted it right up and slight push forward on the mounting pins and bolted it in.
The fill tube doesn't want to go in the filler hole. Made sure to lube the rubber sleeve with trans fluid and still doesn't want to go down flush. Shouldn't have to hammer on it so need a tip on how to get this in place.
The shifter bracket that mounts to the tranny oil pan holes don't line up but looks like should be able to drill a new hole. The bracket that fits on the shifter shaft needs a little grinding to enlarge the slot.
The TV cable spring doesn't have the S bend to secure the eyelet. Not sure how to get around this one. If I bend the spring it will be to short? What size is the threaded hole that holds the TV base in place on the trans? I tried the 10mm from the old trans and couldn't get it to thread?
Made new short lines from the tranny to the existing lines using couplings and looks like that will be ok as long as it doesn't leak.

 
Figured out the spring for the TV. The cable sleeve holds the spring in place.
 
Changing A Transmission

I have always used jack stands and a floor jack during the past 45 years. First of all, you'll need to take the fan off to prevent damaging the fan and the shroud. Then lower the rear of your engine down using a 2" X 4" under the rear of the pan and a bottle jack. I made a quick-change 1/8" thick 12" X 12" steel plate with a lip on it for my floor jack to support the transmission. Piece of cake once you make the 12" X 12" plate.
 
Upgrade of the tranny is complete. Only minor issues with Monster sending the wrong torque convertor lock out plug. Once they got that hooked up and its like driving a totally different car. Shifts points are solid. I notice a slight bang or clunk when tranny is downshifting from 2nd to 1st. Bang or clunk are probably not the correct word but can't think of another way to describe it.
 
Upgrade of the tranny is complete. Only minor issues with Monster sending the wrong torque convertor lock out plug. Once they got that hooked up and its like driving a totally different car. Shifts points are solid. I notice a slight bang or clunk when tranny is downshifting from 2nd to 1st. Bang or clunk are probably not the correct word but can't think of another way to describe it.


What kind of transmission? If the selector isn't in the "D" position they will downshift with a noticeable clunk.
 
Transmission is a 200 4R. Clunk may not be the best word to describe the downshift. Its just more noticeable going from 2nd to 1st than when its downshifting from the other gears. The shifter is in OD. I haven't tried it other gears.
 

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