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Question: Transmission Change out using jack stands

donnie_19

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
18
Location
Troy
Corvette
1978 C3
How challenging is it to change the transmission out using jack stands in 78? Removing stock transmission and installing a Monster Heavy Duty 200 4R arriving next week and trying to prepare for unknown challenges. Any special tools? Don't have access to a lift unless I wait a couple of months.
 
Having done an Audi Quattro on jackstands, I can tell you it's not fun or easy but can be done. Make sure you have enough ground clearance (needed 2.5 feet on the Audi). A transmission jack will make it a lot easier but a floorjack can be used although there is a big stability issue keeping it on the jack's pad. Get a couple friends to help as well. Most of all, get a creeper that's comfortable, I didn't have a creeper and was on my back for about 18 hours and literally could not stand up. I had a bruises all over my back for weeks and was popping ibuprofen like a madman.
 
I've done R&R trans in a C3 on stands.

You need high jack stands and you need a transmission jack to do it.

The car need to be high enough that you can lower the trans onto the jack and have enough room to wheel the jack and trans out from under the car.
 
Hib is correct: You'd be surprised how many people I've seen drop an automatic out of a Vette on jack stands, only to realize that the tranny can't be removed from the confines of the transmission tunnel area... If you're strong enough to do it, you can slide the tranny off the jack with the jack fully lowered, and dump the tranny onto the floor while under the tunnel. This will often allow enough clearance to slide the tranny forward and out from underneath the car by going under the engine. Problem with this is that you'll have to slide the new tranny under the car and get it up on the jack while working under the tunnel - this is awkward at best. Tall, safe jack stands are pretty expensive..

Lars
 
Any special wrenches, extensions, etc?

Probably want a really long 3/8 drive extension for the bell housing bolts? not sure what else off the top of my head I can reccomend tonight.. but usually when I'm pulling a trans that is one thing I def. will use...
-=Rick
 
Definitely that long extension.

Don't let the engine "hang" by the two motor mounts. You're going to need to support the back of the engine before you lift up the back of the trans to remove the trans mount.

Some people use a jack and a 6x6 piece of wood under the back of the oil pan but be careful, its easy to dent or collapse the pan that way.
 
What about insulation in the tunnel area while trans is out? Anything out there that can help with the interior heat?
 
I did a trans swap in an 84 on jackstands...like Lars described by ever so carefully sliding the trans off of the jack while under the car, as there was not enough clearance to slide it out while on the jack. It "can" be done, but talk about a sucky job...I will NEVER do that again!
 
I did the 2004r swap last year and the only trouble was getting the trans to roll out from under the car on the jack. I used a floor jack to r&r the trany. I had the car up as high as the 3 ton craftsman floor jack would lift the car and 5 ton jack stands. The trans came out of the car ok but lacked 3 to 4" from rolling out from the side of the car. Had to slide the trans off the jack and install the same way. No helper on this project but would sure be a asset. I used a 2nd floor jack to support the motor so going out the front was not a option
 
Its a PITA for sure i did my 79 a few years ago. a FSM is a must IMO and a friend to help out. Theres a tunnel insulator you can buy thats avaliable from different venders. i believe it goes mounted on the underside of the tunnel over the transmission so this would be a good time to install one.
 
I have done it twice with my 77. I had to slide it off the jack to get it out from under the car and then get it back up on the jack to get it back in. Not a lot of fun, but easily doable.
 
I've done ALL transmission R&R's on jack stands from a creeper for the last 40+ years,Don't matter what it is, Corvette of any generation to Off Road 4X4 Trucks!~!!:thumb

Piece of Cake!~!!:thumb:thumb

:D
 
I've done R&R trans in a C3 on stands.

You need high jack stands and you need a transmission jack to do it.

The car need to be high enough that you can lower the trans onto the jack and have enough room to wheel the jack and trans out from under the car.

I built jack stand bases using 4x4's and 1" plywood to bind them top and bottom. Jack stands sit on top of each one. End result is a 5" height increase at each jack stand. Also, went to lumber yard and picked up two 6x10's about 3' long each (they were considered scrap and they gave them to be eventhough I offered to buy them), used my chain saw to make a diagonal cut and attached heavy duty handles to the sides making 2 very sturdy and easily stored ramps. First, I drive the rear up on the ramps, then jack up the front. This works for most routine under car work. When I need more clearance I jack up the back and, using my jack stands and bases, I get plenty of clearance for trani R&R, etc.
 
At least it's an automatic, where the transmission cross member drops out and isn't in the way.:happyanim:
 
Well phase one is well underway. Old transmission is out. Only a few minor problems, the cooling lines wouldn't come loose at the trans. Ended up cutting the lines. Dropped the cap off the u joint when removing the drive shaft, so the needle bearings ended up in the oil dry. Getting the dip stick tube wiggled out was a pain. Had to pull the distributor to get access to the top bolts of the bell housing. Had to sawzall my new welded exhaust behind the cross memeber. One the good side if there is one, the fly wheel had several teeth chewed up so while there might as well fix that while the tranny is out. All in all not that bad, had a couple of helpers rolling around in the tranny fluid with me.
 
Well phase one is well underway. Old transmission is out. Only a few minor problems, the cooling lines wouldn't come loose at the trans. Ended up cutting the lines. Dropped the cap off the u joint when removing the drive shaft, so the needle bearings ended up in the oil dry. Getting the dip stick tube wiggled out was a pain. Had to pull the distributor to get access to the top bolts of the bell housing. Had to sawzall my new welded exhaust behind the cross memeber. One the good side if there is one, the fly wheel had several teeth chewed up so while there might as well fix that while the tranny is out. All in all not that bad, had a couple of helpers rolling around in the tranny fluid with me.

The lines are an easy fix, this is very common, if you cut them neatly you can repair them with compression fittings, seen this done many times as the end of the lines at the trans are either siezed or near impossible to get tools on.. Good Luck on Phase 2!
 
The lines are an easy fix, this is very common, if you cut them neatly you can repair them with compression fittings, seen this done many times as the end of the lines at the trans are either siezed or near impossible to get tools on.. Good Luck on Phase 2!
I wondered about using hose with hose clamps as thats what is on the oil cooler?
 
Hose clamps on automatic trans colling lines are really iffy because 1) the pressure and 2) once you cut the pipe, there is no "barb" on the end to help retain the hose. I'll confess to having used double hose clamps once a long time ago when installing an auxiliary cooler, but with the experience I have now, I'd never do that, again.
 
I wondered about using hose with hose clamps as thats what is on the oil cooler?
I replaced mine(hoses and clamps) as they were leaking,a couple of years ago ...they are a PIA to loosen and tighten to save the least...make sure you tighten the $h** out of them....
 

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