Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Transmission Problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShaneL
  • Start date Start date
S

ShaneL

Guest
Yesterday I had a check engine light come on so I went to the parts store to have the code read but they were unable to tell me what the code represented. Came home and looked it up on OBDII.com but they didn't have the code for a vette but some of the others were related to shift timing and shift solenoids. I beleive the code is P1886 if someone could look it up in a service manual and post what it says. Now when I am driving on the highway I cannot get it to shift into Over Drive and I am running greater than 2500 rpms at 70 mph.

What would some of you recommend me do. Keep in mind that money is somewhat tight and I can't afford a complete rebuild or to pay the extra money for gas because I can't use OD.

Thanks,
Shane
 
I would also like to add that when I come to a stop and try to start going again (stoplights and such) It seems to be really slow to accelerate and I really have to get into the gas to get it going. After that it seems to accelerate while moving at speed better.
 
I've done some searching and have decided to try to fix the problem myself if at all possible by replacing the 3-4 shift solenoid. I will also be changing the filter and fluid at the same time. Does anyone have a diagram for the 4L60E tranny or do you know where the solenoids are located as I have no means by which to drop the tranny.


The site that I am looking at for the parts is http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MDITP&Category_Code=700R4sw but I am unsure as to what parts I need to order.

Starting to feel like I'm talking to myself here:D,
Shane
 
Try a PM to C4C5Specialist

 
4l60e

The 4L60E is very similar to the 700R4 but then again it is different. The major difference is the 4L60E uses the computer to control shift points, where as the 700R4 uses pressure and shifting is regulated by the throtle valve cable. I haven't been into a 4L60 (although I have one sitting in my garage) but the solenoid should be in the same location. Once you drop your pan the valve body will be visible. When you pull your filter you will see more of it. Be sure that the gasket comes out when you pulll the filter, most of the time they will stay in the bore and you have to pull it out with a screwdriver (gently pry it out) be sure you don't scrape or gouge the bore. The gasket should be orange in color (most of them are) but may be black. The solenoid sould be held in with two screws (10mm) and is the horn shaped item in the link you posted. It looks like it has a coil on one end and a horn on the other. It will have wires coming out of the coil end and they go to the various pressure switches. Draw yourself a diagram of how everything is hooked up for ease of reassembly.

It sounds like one of your pressure switches may be bad, but without actually riding in the car or driving it I don't want to guess and send you on some wild goose chase. You can remove the pressure switch with a standard oil pressure sending unit socket (22mm I think) and test it. With an air comressor set at 40psi and a rubber tip nozzel the switch should hold air and not leak. The pressure switch is for the torque converter lockup.

Hope this helps with your troubleshooting. By the way as a former Charlestonian here's a "GO COCKS"

:w :pat
 
I figured pretty much the same with the pressure switches and such along whith the shift solenoids and switches. All I need to know is if there is a good diagram in the service manual so that I know whre all of them go. I plan on getting the complete set of solenoids and replacing them all.


Thanks for the help,
Shane
 
its called the pressure regulator solenoid and 3 screws hold it into place when you get it out take care with the wires conector they will be brittle
also befor you take it apart did you try your cruise control if it does not engauge right away when you push the button the adjustment is off and that can be adjusted under the hood that causes the trans not to shift and down shift.
also the filter has an up dated one that needs to replace the old one/
the bushing has to come out/
hope this helps,
by the way the map sensor will also keep the trans from shifting
it is located on the front of the intake maniforld.
 
This did happen when I was using cruise control on the highway but when it did not shift up I tried to get it to a higher rpm range but I ended up getting no results. The cruise control works fine, I have used it in the past with no problem and it still works now. I will be getting Auto Tap to see if I can tell what the problem is.

Thanks again,
Shane
 
What is your water temp when you have OD prob?
 
DTC P1886 3-2 SS Valve Assy CKT. (Not 2-3 Shift solenoid!)

Possibilities
Fuse 15
Wiring Harness
3-2 Solenoid
PCM

I recently replaced the 1-2 shift solenoid on my '89 Toyo pickup and it was $153 !!! I hope yours is cheaper.
 
I took it out for a spin today and it seemed that once it heated up a little that it did not work as well. When I first left the driveway I left two nice black marks behind but once I got to the entrance to our neighborbood it accelerated sluggishly like it would not go into first gear. I tried to shift thru the gears manually but it felt like the shifter would not snap into place in first like it does with the other gears. The only time I messed with anything in the fuse box was when I removed the Fuel Pump fuse to release pressure when I change the fuel filter. When I was in there I also noticed that someone might have modified something by putting an extra fuse block in for a cell phone. I removed these and do not know where they went. I will post a picture of this tomorrow if I have time. I do not see how it could be the 3-2 solenoid because it seems that the only gears that I can use are 2 and 3. I can shift manually between them but I cannot go to 4 or 1. I will check the wiring going to the tranny tomorrow if I can find the connectors. Auto Tap is on order and should be here monday.

Ill get back to you,
Shane
 
ShaneL said:
I do not see how it could be the 3-2 solenoid because it seems that the only gears that I can use are 2 and 3.

Ill get back to you,
Shane
Good luck to you. The code indicates 3-2 control (downshift) solenoid so if you have an ohmmeter you can check the continuity of the solenoid or you can remove it and apply 12v to the contacts to see if it energizes.
 
Do you know where the connectors are on the outside of the transmission? I sure don't want to remove the exhaust but if the only way to test them is to get in by the pan and remove the filter and such I will not know where they are. Keep in mind that I do not have a service manual or a diagram of the internals of a 4L60E.

What should the 3-2 solenoid read as on my car? This website has a kit with all of the solenoids used in the transmission and it seems to be a good deal to me. Has anyone used them in the past?

Their website has two kits and they state this as their difference:

[font=Arial, Helvetica][size=-1]# MS-4L60E TeckPak Solenoid master kit 4L60E up to 96.... The difference between the MS-4L60E and the MS-4L60E-96 is the 3-2 downshift solenoid. The early solenoid is 9-14 ohms with 2 Red Wires. The Late 96-up is 20-31 ohms and has 1 red wire and 1 white wire[/size][/font]

http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MS-4L60E&Category_Code=700R4sw
 
I don't see the parts you need on that site?
try this, put your trans in o-drive and
first test ,stomp on the gas as the car builds speed see if you can feel a vibration?
second test put the trans in drive only and mash the gas.
if the car does not vibrate or just a little vibration then your presure regulator is bad.
If that is the case then all you have to do is drop the trans pan and you will see
a silver cover on the pass side with 3 screws at the front of the trans the regulator is inside there.
NO the exaust does not have to come out of the car
just the cross brace if you have a ragtop.

From what you have said so far Iam not sure you have a trans prob?:confused
 
redc4corvette said:
I don't see the parts you need on that site?
try this, put your trans in o-drive and
first test ,stomp on the gas as the car builds speed see if you can feel a vibration?
second test put the trans in drive only and mash the gas.
if the car does not vibrate or just a little vibration then your presure regulator is bad.
If that is the case then all you have to do is drop the trans pan and you will see
a silver cover on the pass side with 3 screws at the front of the trans the regulator is inside there.
NO the exaust does not have to come out of the car
just the cross brace if you have a ragtop.

From what you have said so far Iam not sure you have a trans prob?:confused
I just wrote a reply and it got wiped out!




TCC apply(no apply)
Shift Pattern(no fourth gear in hot mode)
shift qualuty (harsh)
Line pressure (high)
Manual downshift (erratic)
NO 4 th gear if in hot mode)
Pressure regulator switch assembly bad.3.5-8 ohms
wiring is ppl and light blue.
tcc solenoid red black 20to 40
1-2 solenoid red light green 20 to 40 ohms
2-3 shift solenoid red yellow 20 to 40 ohms
3-2 shift solenoid red white 9-14 ohms
hope this helps
 
This is the picture of the fuse pannel. I wiggled all of the fuses and started it up again but there was no change.

attachment.php
 
I got the scan tool today and hooked it up and drove around for a while. I have not torn into the transmission yet but I would like to tell you what I have observed.

The transmission does not shift into overdrive and the only time that I can get into first is when I first start the car. The tranny shifts from second to third just fine but will not down shift to second or first. I can get into second by manually moving the shifter to second but I cannot get it to go into first this way.

I confirmed this using the scantool.

-Shane
 
Well lets start from the top1.check if gas peddle is adjusted ,look under the hood and at the throttle body
on the drivers side see if there is any slack in the throttle cable connected to the throttle body if there is any slack at all the trans will not shift right.

to adjust if you look at the black cable connected to your throttle body you will see a switch inline as part of the cable flip the little black thing that you can't see open and adjust throttle cable until there is no slack at throttle body?
its just before the asr unit.
when was your fluid changed last?
is your map sensor good? it's conected to the intake manifoldfront right black thing with a conector and vacc hose running to it.trans will not shift into high gear if that is bad.
there is an up dated filter and bushing that needs to be replaced in the trans.
check these things and let me know?
I will try to sent you diagram of GMtrouble codes later i am on the wrong computer to do that now.
 
I adjusted the throttle cable just a couple weeks ago. I do not know when the filter, bushing, or fluid was last changed in the tranny or rear end. I have done engine oil, coolant, and brake fluid so far. If you can tell me the parameters to monitor I can look at it with my scan tool to see if it is working right. As I said before when I first start the car it is in first, but once out I cannot shift back manually and the computer will not go to first, second, or fourth automatically.


Thanks for the help!

-Shane
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom