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Trouble replacing air filter in C5-help!

Greg C

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2003
Messages
102
Location
Ann Arbor Michigan
Corvette
2000 Convertible;Bowling Green Metalic
Getting my 2000 C5 (Roadster/auto) ready for the summer (I'm in Michigan).
Changed my oil, checked fluids, tire pressures, ect......picked up a K/N air filter to replace my stock one and for 2 hours i have been trying to get that air box to seal, the clamps will not clamp down (to loose). Tried it with the old stock air filter also and the same problem. Can anyone tell what the trick is? I have the shop manual but that's no help at all......."remove air filter, re-install air filter"..... duh...........any help would be appreciated..............
 
1. Take the K&N POS back and get a Delco filter
2. The clamp bands have probably slipped off the housing-take everything off and check that out.
3. Install Delco filter.
 
The bands did come off at first, I had to put the car up on the lift, loosen the dust guard behind the facia and re-install the clamps.............no, it's something else, must be that I am not seating the back of the air box or not re-installing the filter right...........donno...........have to wait and see if any one else replies.thanks.............
 
Pop the entire airbox assembly out of the car. There are two posts and grommets at the lower front of the airbox. Its easy to get it loose from the front of the car, just go in between the front facia and the open hood. Take the whole airbox out and reinstall the bands, filter holder/filter and snap it shut. If you wet the rubber grommets before installing it back into the car they go on easier. Also, don't know if you used the additional gasket that K&N provided, but it adds thickness to the filter, since the K&N is slightly thinner than the stock Delco.
 
Hi Greg C -

I agree 100% with MAC5 -

Remove whole airbridge/airbox assembly - loosen the clamp and pull it off in one piece.

There are two pin connectors on the airbridge and two grommets on the front of the airbox lid that hold the whole deal on.

Once you get it off the first time you'll understand and it'll go back in real nice and easy.

I struggled with mine for quite a while the first time.

best regards -

mqqn
 
I dont know why everyone rips on the K&N filters. As long as you dont over charge them with oil they flow better when they are dirty over any paper filter. It will eventually pay off down the road instead of buying new paper filters twice a year. Good luck.
 
The stock AC outflows any brand of filter, including oiled ones. No K & N's on race cars or ZO-6's-too restrictive.
 
OK, I got the air filter changed..........here's what I found.............

I guess I will have to disagree with a couple members who said you need to remove the whole air assembly, take it apart, reinstall the new filter, re-assemble the air box then re-install it.....well the problem with this is (at least on my 2000) is that there are two hex head bolts (with a rubber grommet around them) that attach the assembly to the frame and you can't screw those 2 bolts in with the air box all assembled..........so what I did is
loosened the plastic cover above/behind the facia (5 bolts) and with the upper half of the air box bolted in with the 2 hex bolts, you slide the hook ends of the bands in from the top (easier with two people), hook the bands in place, then slide the new filter in with the top frame (took a little bit of jockeying around but it went in) then just lock the two handles in place, button up the plastic piece above/behind the facia........alot easier with two people...........hope this helps someone in the future...........thanks for all the help though................GC
 
Ken Anderson said:
The stock AC outflows any brand of filter, including oiled ones. No K & N's on race cars or ZO-6's-too restrictive.

Ken...uh...you have any credible test results to support such claims?
 
There have been tests on oil and air filters posted on the internet for years-don't have the links, tho. I can tell you for sure a slightly moded ZO-6 will try to ingest a K&N, Greenie, what have you. It's like putting a 2nd rev limiter on your car. You know the C6-R team, check with them.
 
Greg C, we all find our comfortable way of doing it. My recommendation to remove the entire airbox was to ensure those two straps were properly attached at the base of the airbox. The easiest way for that is removal. Those two hex bolts don't need removal. If you simply push the front cover of the airbox away from those two bolts the entire airbox, grommets and all will release. It makes it easier if you spray some water or 409 on the posts and grommets to help release the grommets from the bolts. Glad to hear it worked out.
 
Mac, thanks for the link. I think it speaks for itself and hope it help convince Hib.
 
Hib Halverson said:
Ken...uh...you have any credible test results to support such claims?
the oiled K&N allows so much dirt thru on turbo diesels that it will polish the turbo wheel. dealer are told to look for this problem before doing any warranty work. remember that diesels run at wide open throttle all the time and the engine speed is controled by the fuel flow so the diesel filter see a lot more air flow that a gasoline engine.
 
motorman said:
the oiled K&N allows so much dirt thru on turbo diesels that it will polish the turbo wheel. dealer are told to look for this problem before doing any warranty work. remember that diesels run at wide open throttle all the time and the engine speed is controled by the fuel flow so the diesel filter see a lot more air flow that a gasoline engine.

Yowsah! see: http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
 
MAC5 said:
Greg C, we all find our comfortable way of doing it. My recommendation to remove the entire airbox was to ensure those two straps were properly attached at the base of the airbox. The easiest way for that is removal. Those two hex bolts don't need removal. If you simply push the front cover of the airbox away from those two bolts the entire airbox, grommets and all will release. It makes it easier if you spray some water or 409 on the posts and grommets to help release the grommets from the bolts. Glad to hear it worked out.

Well Mac5, next spring I will try your method.........I wish someone had mentioned this detail before and I would have lubed the grommets when I re-installed everything. But i will print up this part of the this thread and add it to my Vette book..........have a safe summer.............Greg
 
That's the great part of owning one of these cars and participating in the forums. You can probably learn something new about the car and pick a "how to" tip everyday.
 
Ken Anderson said:
There have been tests on oil and air filters posted on the internet for years-don't have the links, tho. I can tell you for sure a slightly moded ZO-6 will try to ingest a K&N, Greenie, what have you. It's like putting a 2nd rev limiter on your car. You know the C6-R team, check with them.

That's a very evasive answer. You're wasting our time, here.

So you don't have any credible test data but you do have some unsubstantiated, general, anecdotal information about oil and air filters the URLs of which you do not know..... is that correct?

Telling me "You know the C6-R team" is rediculous. The C6-R is an all out race car with a near 800hp 7-liter race engine. We're talking about stock or near stock C5s.

As for a Z06 which tries to ingest a cotton filter....I have a Z06 with a Green Filter and have never experienced the engine trying to "ingest" the filter. I also have a 95 ZR-1 with a Green and, again, have not experienced such trouble.

Could you be more specific as to where your information comes on this issue?
 
motorman said:
the oiled K&N allows so much dirt thru on turbo diesels that it will polish the turbo wheel. dealer are told to look for this problem before doing any warranty work. remember that diesels run at wide open throttle all the time and the engine speed is controled by the fuel flow so the diesel filter see a lot more air flow that a gasoline engine.

I work for Diesel Power magazine as a technical writer. My current assignment with them is to build a project truck, a GMC 2500 HD with the Duramax.

I can tell you that diesels do not run at wide open throttle all the time because they have no throttle. Engine speed is controlled, partially by fuel flow and partially by load. A diesel can run at light load (equiv. to part throttle in an engine which is throttled) or at rated output (eqiv. to WOT) or anywhere in between.

You say that dealers are told to "watch" for polished turbine wheels when doing warranty work.

Are these GM dealers and, if so, what's the TSB number of that advisory? I have searched for such a bulletin and cannot find it.
 
Hi Hib -

I got into this debate once with friends on another forum (i.e. the oiled air filters are the devil!)

I run an oiled gauze filter on my Z06, and have had it there for almost two years now. I also run twin oiled-gauze K&N style filters on my 99 coupe - also no problems.

The most compelling reason anyone has ever stated to me on the subject was that an over-oiled filter could possible cause the MAF to malfunction.

I say just don't over oil the doggone filter!

best regards -

mqqn
 

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