Turn signal broke off!

[LanceB]

I just picked up my 81 after putting new rear end and compressor for A/C in. I thought I finally had a nice driveable vette. I went to turn and the turn signal went flying in the air. It was always a little hard to turn right. Anyway I am now in the process of tearing down the steering column. After removing the retainer clip and nut, the Haynes manual says to remove with a puller? I am not really sure what that is. Also the manual isn't clear on whether the ignition and housing must come off to get the the turn signal mechanism. I am hoping I can remove this by going through the top of the column. The lever broke right where the threads enter the switch, and being that it is hard to turn anyway, I might as well fix it where there is no problem in the future. Unfortunately, I think this project is going to be one of those where I don't know what I am really looking at until I keep taking it apart. Thanks for any advice!

 

[JonM]

I just got through putting mine back togther two minutes ago...I can help you if yours looks something like this...

 

[LanceB]

Mine is very similar (only no extras on the turn switch). The biggest problem is the broken point is where I can't get a grip on the threads to get the rest of the lever out. Only idea I have is to take it all apart. Does the ignition and housing/cover need to be taken off in order to get to all of the turn signal parts? Also once I removed the wheel, horn and several other parts I am down to the telescoping mechanism. I don't know how to remove this because I took the nut off and it is still on there tight. It has a spring behind it too. I don't have my manual with me today so I may not have the right names for the parts.

 

[JonM]

If you already have the wheel off and are down to the lockplate. (lockplate is the large round piece you see in the pic above)...What you need to do next is go to Autozone and they will loan you this tool...

or you can buy it for 11 or 12 dollars.

Get a 5/16-18 x 1 1/2 inch long bolt and cut the head off. Thread this bolt without the head into the telescoping mechanism and tighten it up with a vise grip. This will lock the wheel in place so you can use the above tool. Thread the tool onto the outside of the telescoping mechanism with the red handle then tighten the wing nut to collapse the locking plate and spring...you will have some type of retaining clip that needs to be removed. Then release the wingnut slowly...remove the locking plate...you are now down to the turn signal mechanism. do the same thing to put it all back togther.

 

[LanceB]

OK, I think I understand now after reading the post and visualizing a little bit. I understand the part about the bolt, etc. I suppose the bolt is going to be threaded into the same bolt I removed the retaining clip and nut from. I thread it into that and tighten with vice grip. I then attach the tool to this bolt that is sticking out of my telescoping piece. Do these pullers come with directions? Hopefully I don't break anything.

 

[LanceB]

Also, I take it I don't have to remove ignition or cover, I can get to everything once I get the lock plate, etc removed? Thanks for your help. This is my project tonight.

 

[LanceB]

After further reading, I am not sure if I am down to the lockplate pictured yet. I am down to the part that telescopes, and there is a big spring behind it. It still moves up and down, and I don't see how to remove it. It may just pull off, but it seems like it is on there pretty good. This is the piece the actual wheel bolts to. I removed a nut that held it on, but it doesn't seem like it made a difference.

 

[JonM]

Is the steering wheel still on ?

 

[JonM]

OK, I think I understand now after reading the post and visualizing a little bit. I understand the part about the bolt, etc. I suppose the bolt is going to be threaded into the same bolt I removed the retaining clip and nut from. I thread it into that and tighten with vice grip. I then attach the tool to this bolt that is sticking out of my telescoping piece. Do these pullers come with directions? Hopefully I don't break anything.

The bolt with the removed head in threaded inside the telescopic shaft...the the tool is threaded to the shaft outside and over the beheaded bolt...two different threadings

 

[LanceB]

Sorry this is a confusing topic to try to discuss online. Yes, part of the wheel is still on. The part that telescopes up and down. The actual wheel, horn, several plates are off, and I can't figure out how to remove this telescoping wheel piece to get down to the next step which would be the locking plate. Your advice about how to remove the locking plate makes sense now.

 

[JonM]

Does it look anything like this? ...Remember I am working with an 84

 

[JonM]

When you look inside ...do you see where you could thread a couple bolts? If so you need a puller which you can also b orrow from Autozone. One looks like this one.

 

[LanceB]

OK, I see your 84 steering wheel comes off a little easier and lets you access the locking plate a little quicker because there are less parts to remove. I need to figure out how to get to the locking plate. When I quit working last night it was late and it may be something simple to get to that. I am going to hit autozone on the way home today and get a puller and a bolt. Thanks!

 

[JonM]

I think you will need BOTH pullers ...

 

[LanceB]

I puller for both parts, that may be the case. I am going to see what they have at Autozone and read through my manual a couple of times. There are places to thread bolts on the telescoping part also. Once I finally get to the turnsignal parts I hope I can get it fixed!

 

[Rain]

sounds like its time to learn to use Hand Signals again!

Sorry to hear about your loss.. But you are in very capable hands here - they will get ya back together!

good luck
Rain

 

[LanceB]

Am getting ready to use puller

OK I got a puller for the steering wheel hub. I also bought a locking plate remover. I have the puller attached and it is threaded, flush with the bolt, and tightened down pretty tight. Do I need to just crank down on the puller? It seems like it is on real tight, maybe using some WD-40 will help too. I feel like I am going to break a part, or have something go flying in the air. Just wanted to get advice before I really put some leverage on the puller.

 

[JonM]

It looks good from here...:L...go for it...as long as you have the two bolts threaded into the housing you should be fine...crank it slowly...its been on for 24 years

 

[Vette/Berlina-coupe]

XtremeCaution: -the Steering-column is an absolute nightmare of complexity...

HelloFriend: -sorry you are having a problem with the Steering-column, as if it is a Tilt&Tele. like my 1980 then you are treading upon thin-ice, -owing that this is probably the single most intricate item on the car, --a momument to absurd-engineering; and the Factory-manual is of NO HELP i am very sad to relate, --i suspect there must be a special step-by-step manual dedicated just to repair of the GM/T&T-Steering-column. The TurnSignal-lever is designed to merely pull-off its switch/mounting-spline (some are frozen-on with age or LocTight), -so if one does not have Cruise-control built-in to the stalk-tip it greatly simplifies things. You really don't want to get into replacing the Turn-switch if at all possible, so first try to fix the turn-switch to operate more smoothly by merely directing a bit of Silicoln-spray (via the long-thin -nozzle) proximal the integrated Turn-switch region while operating the switch. But if this does not cure the ailment, and against best advise to the contrary, --once you've detached the six/phillips-screws holding the Steering-wheel to the Steer-hub, you MUST use a Hub-puller to remove the Steering-hub (maybe the screw-threaded one shown above will work, but the other one shown with red-tip is not what it looks like, --the one i found to work has two L-shaped pull-fingers that grab under the Steering-hub when you turn the center-bolt that turns-against the Steering-shaft (never resort to a hammer as you will likely damage the jullion ball-bearings located further down in the T&T/Steering-column). With the Steering-hub once removed, you will encounter a large slidable C-clip that is retained under pressure of a large-coiled/compression-spring (although there is no danger of flying parts when dislodged), then comes the black-steel Steering/Locking-plate (having a dozen notches around its perimeter), then the circular/white-plastic horn/slip-ring, and then you will discover three/Phillips-screws which retain the white-plastic Directional-switch. The wires and control-rod for the Directional-switch are fished down the column to the HI/Lo-Headlight Control-switch located on the column under the dash. Oh the more i talk about it the more i know you will regret ever messing with this horribly-engineered (as to complexity) apparatus. I wish i could be of greater assistance to you my friend, but my best advice is for you to try and first locate a Repair-manual dealing only with the GM/T&T-SteeringColumn (it must exist, as nobody could possibly survive with only the vegue mumblings of the General's Factory/Repair-manual), --as it is actually worse than trying to rebuild an automatic-transmission in my opinion....
~Bob vH
Commentary: Lance & Jon, -seems you are both doing great herein below, but absolutely venture no further into the innards than the Directional-switch repair/replacement, --as would only invite disaster! Getting the large C-clip reinstalled under compressive resistance of the large/coil-spring is the most difficult reassembly procedure (the declivity in the C-clip faces outward) and may well take two-people to accomplish. ~Bob vH

 

[LanceB]

making progress

OK I got the wheel and the locking plate off with relative ease. I was hoping things would be downhill from here, but I can see that isn't the case. It will be a @*#!$ miracle if I get it put back together. Anyway I will quit my whining. I am down to the turn signal parts and it is in there pretty tight because of the wiring harness. If I can figure out how to get the wiring harness loose from this contraption, I should be able to get the broken part. So that is my question now. I feel like I should be leaving breadcrumbs behind me as I do this, but it is getting too late and for now I am going to focus on the harness.