Turnkey engines

[vette-dude]

Jack

You are absolutely correct in the rod length issue. Guess I was having a senior moment. (Actually it was a test to see if you were sleeping at the switch.) Sorry if I confused anyone, this is my normal state of being. :eek :eek :eek

 

[Doug'sL81]

Thanks for all the input, but I guess no one has heard anything about the engine factory. I was also considering the GMPP HT383 and using the recipe to increase HP from Hotrod or chevy hi performance mag. The HT383 uses a slightly different combo than the basic 383 kits. Whereas a typical stroker uses a 400 crank with 3.750 stroke in a 350 block with 4.030 bore, the new GM crate engine has a standard bore of 4.000 inches with a longer 3.800 stroke. The rods are 5.7 inches, which is stock for a 350. This combo makes the same 383 displacement.

 

[GrandSportC3]

AWESOME video!! The best part of the drag racing was that the wife usaully raced the car and not in the powder puff stuff. She has a much better reaction time than I do. You seem to have your vette pretty well dialed in. Now. with a little laughing gas and some Mickey Thompson slicks I see wheel stands in your future.

By the way the wife actually thinks I am going to let her drive the Vette to work someday's. I have to keep convincing her it needs something fixed and it ain't ready yet for her to drive. This forum gives me good idea's of things that might still need to be fixed!! Good job everyone!!!!!!!

I'm not planning to add NOS.. The gapping on my rings is too little for NOS.. Another problem on C3's is that the rear end is not all that strong and close to 500 HP is already a lot for the rear end.. I won't even try slicks because I'm worried about the rear end... I only want to get to 11's.. After that - they won't let me race anymore anyway... I would need a roll cage but I don't want to mess up the looks of my Vert with a roll cage...

Olivier

 

[Cream79L82]

Great work with the smilies Jack. Do you have a last name? ;stupid

 

[Jack]

Jack You are absolutely correct in the rod length issue. Guess I was having a senior moment. (Actually it was a test to see if you were sleeping at the switch.) Sorry if I confused anyone, this is my normal state of being. :eek :eek :eek

vette-dude:
Senior moment ? Uh what's that? ... OH, I forgot... all too often me too. No prob ... I posted specs solely for clarity.

Great work with the smilies Jack. Do you have a last name? ;stupid

Jon:
Not sure where you're goin with this ... why do you ask? BTW, did you get your tranny issues resolved ... are ya pedaling or cruizin? BTW, I'm crewing a circle track supertruck here this weekend ... the driver (Greg Barnhart) is flying in from his home at OKC OK ... nearby Norman.
JACK:gap

 

[LarryBible]

I built my first 383 many years ago using just as was said in an earlier post, 5.565 rods, 400 crank with turned down mains and .030 over four bolt improved block.

For street torque this is a little better combination. In my opinion torque is the only reason you're messing with a 383. There are so many more crankshaft, piston and rod choices now that you can build whatever you want and with a forged crank if you think you need it for your application.

For a street engine though, I feel that the short rod works fine and keeps from putting the pin so close to the crown that you can't squeeze in a decent ring package. As the rod gets longer, the resulting rod ratio lends itself more toward higher RPM.

Love that low and mid range torque,

 

[Cream79L82]

I have indeed been cruising around in the vette this week. I finished it up last Friday but for one minor problem. I had to tap out two of the tranny pan bolts, and the threads look great as far as I can see. I first went one metric size larger, then I had to go a the whole standard size bigger. The problem is that bolt is just barely not big enough to fill the threads up at the top I guess, so it won't tighten all the way. Thus I've got a few drips. I would be fixing it this afternoon with a #9 metric bolt, but no one sells them!! I'm going to have to special order them from a place in OK City because Ace and auto stores won't carry them. I think the flex plate is making a lot of difference too, I just haven't really ripped it open yet.

 

[Jack]

/jon ... Thus I've got a few drips. I would be fixing it this afternoon with a #9 metric bolt, but no one sells them!!

Heli-coil may be a good solution ... widely available ... but more$ than a bolt.
JACK:gap

 

[Cream79L82]

I think you're right there Jack... I was real close to buying one last week but wussed out. Guess it's time.

 

[Cream79L82]

Sorry I had to changet the subject above guys. Does anyone know of some good info or websites about the advantages of a stroked 383 vs. any of the other larger engines? I'm gonna go bigger, but I wanna know as much as I can about all the different setups and the pros and cons of big/long/small blocks and performance and reliability. I guess it's a pretty broad subject, but any directed thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LarryBible]

Cream79L2,

Look for the books by David Vizard. I can't remember which ones, but there are a few in which he really gets into a lot of testing and explanation regarding the 383 and 400. Also John Lingenfelters book goes into lots of info regarding the 383.

The only problem with the 400 approach is that the blocks are prone to cracking. This can be dealt with by drilling steam pocket holes in either the heads or block, I can't remember which because I've never messed with the 400. You can find the information in a number of SBC books on exactly where to drill the holes.

If you want to mess with the 400, it is definitely your best bet for maximum power from a small block, but research well, drill the steam pocket holes and take all the precautions. If you do you can make a somewhat economical to build and reliable monster. If you're not so concerned about cost, you can get really carried away and put a longer stroke aftermarket crankshaft in a 400 block and build about however many cubes you want, but be prepared to spend big buck$ for an engine that won't be as durable as a smaller cube engine.

The 400 stuff said, the 383 comes close if you build it right. The cam/manifold/head combinations to really make it work are different to those for a comparable 350, so if do your research you will not be disappointed. For a streetable engine it's hard to beat a Comp Cams 270H, Weiand 8004 (Don't ask why the Weiand works so well on a 383, but it does) and some decent flowing heads of about 190CC runner volume. Put this on a 9.5:1 or 10:1 engine with a 650 Holley or maybe slightly bigger and you'll have a really fun to drive torque monster.

What I feel is a mistake is to try to build a high RPM 383 or 400. To take advantage of the long stroke, build a low to midrange power band. If you want high RPM horsepower, then stick with a 350, or even a shorter stroke engine.

My $0.02,,

 

[Cream79L82]

Thanks alot for the change Larry.
Doubtless, I've got plenty of researching and reading to do, and when I do, I'll be able to ask more pointed questions to pick your wizened brains out there. We'll see what Vizard has to say.
-jon

 

[black]

engine factory

am currently buying the same type engine that you speak of,Bruce Nelson the owner is a member of NCRS,ask for the free video of that engine being put together.it looks awsome,if you get their motor you get a personal video of your motor being built,this is probably the only engine you can get where all you need hook up is 1 hot wire and this thing comes to life,they also ship free,the chevy engine shop is located in Tequesta Fla.,it's run by Nelsons' son-inlaw Matthew Walsh.you can pay by month,no finance charge,for up to 1 year,they start to build when you are ready ,or if you are in a hurry just pay,I am not,my sweet thang is in 2300 parts,so by time I put the body back on the frame I should be ready for delivery
black

 

[BigRed]

I left this to long...


But how am I stupid for suggesting a engine? Jack if you have something to say come out and say it, don't use smilies like ;stupid to fight your battles. Please explain exactly how I was stupid Im a little confused there.....


HT 383 : 325Hp 415 ft/lbs ( 4500 rpm ) (3850$)

Crate engine, Gm warranty and HUGE room for mods because of the very well built bottom end. Forged crank and 383 cui displacment. That means to me I can add heads, intake, Carbs of any size or shape and I won't risk hurting the engine. Thats pretty cool IMO.

But you may be right Im Stupid... Lets compare a few

"Fast Burn 385" 350cui 385Hp ( 5600 rpm ) 385 ft/lbs ( 4000 rpm )(4100$)

"ZZ4 HO" 350cui 355Hp ( 5250 rpm ) 405 ft/lbs ( 3500 rpm ) (3500$)

Lets try injection

"Ram Jet 350" 350Hp ( 5200 rpm ) 400 ft/lbs ( 3500 rpm ) ( 4600$ )

Those are just a few I have listed hmm pretty comparable prices are all close and the Hp varys only 60Hp and Torque is only 30 ft/lbs...

Lets try a custom job..

(Prices from Campbells Performance Engine and Pro Stock Racing Enignes.) <--- Both prices were Identical as were the components for the most part.

383 Stroker ( 4100$ )

Edelbrock Performer heads
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Lunati Crank/rods/Pistons
Crane (Or your choice ) Cam
Stock dressings (Water pump, pan, gears etc..)

Limited 1 year warranty (Void if any part is installed by you it has to be done by Campbell or Pro Stock)

And ya and YOU provide the block


In the end it doesn't matter all the engines perform in the same league and the cost is similar.

But Im ;stupid

This is the HT 383 after Hotrod was done with it

500 lb-ft at 4,200 rpm and 460 hp at 5,400 rpm. That’s gruntin’ for a daily driveable 383.