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u joints

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
I know I should use search. But I did and nothing came up so I'm puttin' it out there.

Is replacing one of the outside ujoints difficult. The procedure is not in my Haynes so I was hoping some one could talk me through it or direct me to the proper link/thread. Thanks! I'm still trying to get her on the road by March 1
 

muddywaters

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2002
Messages
765
Location
wilkes-barre,pa.usa
Corvette
1988 white 4+3 coupe 99 Torch Red 6spd. coupe
Hi, I know money is always an issue, but replace them all if you can, or at least both on that shaft.
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Yes, good idea. Still wating for an exploded view or something. Thanks!
 

bosshogg

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
56
Location
Indiana
Corvette
1988 Coupe
I know there is another thread that has a link that I found very helpful. It also had good photos. You might as well do all 4 after you find out that it is a fairly simple job. It took us less than 3 hours and a case of beer for both sides.
The instructions said to remove something to get the shaft out, but I can't remember what it was exactly. I know that we did not have to remove any suspesion parts. You need to mark the camber adjustment(hope I have the right term) and and turn it to its outermost adjustment and the shaft will pull out after you remove the u-joint straps. Other members also suggest that you use the u-joints without the grease fittings because they are stronger.
Hope I have not confused you totally. I will look for the thread or the link. If I can't find it I will look in the garage and see if I still have the one I printed.
I am in the middle of an intake manifold gasket replacement job now on my 88 coupe. I would rather do the U-joints. :confused
Good Luck,
JOHN
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Thanks Basshog! That's exactly what I was looking for.
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Sorry...I meant BossHogg, Now I just have to find a camber adjustment on a uloint. Never heard of that one before.
 
B

Black Bart

Guest
Sorry...I meant BossHogg, Now I just have to find a camber adjustment on a uloint. Never heard of that one before.
The camber adjustment is the large bolt on the dog bone it has a plate with hash marks so you can put it back close to the original setting but you will need to get a alignment after you get it back together or you will wear the tire and it may handle poorly.
I had to replace my wheel bearings so I had to remove the half shafts and then remove the spindle shaft and it only took about 30 minutes per side. But if you don't have the proper tools it may take you a lot longer.
Nothing like having the right tools for the job.
Since it will cost about 85 to 100 bucks for a 4 wheel aliment I would do all four U joints then you only pay one time for the alignment.
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Excellant directions. The last ones sent didn't mention removing tie rod, knuckle and leaf spring. Is this because its reccomended when you replace both u joints versus the one outside one I originally inquied about? Just wondered. If I'm taking it all apart, I'll replace both on that side. I see no need for alignment as long as I put everything back where it was, afterall I am on a budget here! Thanks!
 

bosshogg

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
56
Location
Indiana
Corvette
1988 Coupe
I am glad I looked at the last one before I did mine. It saved me the time and hassle of removing those parts. I don't like to mess with springs under pressure anyway.
You will have to do some "wiggeling" around to remove the shaft, but it will come out. The shaft is aluminum so don't beat on it. You can pry on the ends a bit to break it loose if you have to. They say it is not a bad idea to mark the shaft also so that it goes back in the yoke in the same position that you removed it.
I hope to finish my intake Saturday and then tackle the bulbs in the digital dash...More Money, More Money, More Money. I guess I won't have to worry about leaving any for the kids...the Big Kid's TOY is going to take it all.
LOL,
JOHN;LOL
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
85 project

So far I've done everything myself and its been a relativly cheap fix. I should have it on the road next weekend. After putting it on jackstsands and shaking stuff back there, I'm not sure it is the u joint, could be a bearing or the yoke? Vibrates and makes a rumbling noise at a certain speed, half shafts have very little play when shaken (1/32) (1/2 mm) ?? Yea, I don't think it's the u joint...Its not that bad. When I'm leagal I'll have someone look at it.
 

grumpyvette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Messages
841
Location
Loxahatchee, FL, Palm Beach co
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33497
you might want to pick up one of these for your garage, the first time I replaced the U-joints in my vette the local machine shop was going to charge me $20 just to remove and replace EACH u-joint PLUS the cost of the U-joints if I REMOVED delivered and replaced the HALF shafts and DRIVE SHAFT, thats 6 u-joints x $20 or $120, the damn PRESS costs very close too the same amount and FROM THEN ON I could replace them myself , have a press in the garage and not spend any more money, to me thats a TOTAL NO BRAINER BTW if ones BAD thier ALL going to be worn enought that replacements a very good idea!
33497.gif

heres helpfu info
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/december/u-joint/u-joint.asp
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/november/arms/arms.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html
first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger
next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497
this is a differant year but most of the info applies
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...nt/u-joint.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...ategoryid=X935

basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,
you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side
BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Very helpful refresher. I've done u joints before. I have a vice. How do you know if thery're bad? The play in them is very, very little, almost insignificant, but somethings going on back there. I'm going to check the main two u joints tomorrow.
 

j-wireman

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
22
Location
Land of Whiskey Rebels, PA
Corvette
1990 white convertible
...More Money, More Money, More Money. I guess I won't have to worry about leaving any for the kids...the Big Kid's TOY is going to take it all.
LOL,
JOHN;LOL

:rotfl Thank God I don't have kids. Or a wife. I can devote my resources to MY toy.:cool Looks liike my Corvette is going to get my inheritance. ;LOL

I think I need to replace the rear wheel bearings/hub assemblies in the near future. What IS the mileage limit on them?
Is it a good idea to replace the U-joints, too? Seems to me it would be easier to pull the shafts out after pulling the hubs. Am I correct?

Mike
'90 'vert
 

davec0_17

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
164
Location
Houston, PA
Corvette
1994 black 6 speed, cat back flowmasters
Usually the joints go bad because they dried up. If they had grease in them, and they were still moving freely, they were most likly OK. Im with you, mark everything, and pass on the alignment.
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Now I'm not at all sure it is a u joint. Seems to be a lot (1/8") of play at the back of the tranny. Its not leaking, yet. Maybe be a bearing?

I'm about to go into my "library" and research it...I see you have to take the exhaust system off to get to it. I'll get it diagnosed by a mechanic friend, then fix it myself probably.

The CAC members experience and advise means a lot to me. Keep it coming guys. I think I need to be intimate with every square inch of this old vette! Thanks!
 

davec0_17

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
164
Location
Houston, PA
Corvette
1994 black 6 speed, cat back flowmasters
Are you talking about half shaft or drive shaft u-joints? Some back and forth play on the drive shaft is ok. whats not ok is sideways play.
 

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
Yes I believe there's a little side to side play in the yoke where the drive shaft leaves the transmission, but it dosen't leak, just gives me a little rumble at a certain speed, ussually when accelerating. Big Job? Naw...Just pulling the exhaust... might as will change that too. Could use some Hi-flow cats!
 

jsinga

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2001
Messages
280
Location
Savannah, GA, USA
Corvette
87 Silver Coupe Way over 200k miles
The driveshaft u-joints looked like new when I pull them out of my 200K mi street driven 87 automatic. I had to look at them after the 2nd set of halfshaft u-joints.
If you inspect your halfshafts and see any sign of dusty looking red around them they are shot. The red turns out to be the ground up rusty remains of the needles!
Halfshaft u-joints fix a lot of high speed vibrations after the tires are eliminated.
If you take out the outer strut rod bolt you don't need to bother the camber adjustment.
Once you get things apart it helps to have someone pull out on the wheel to get the shaft out.

JS
 

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