Help! Universal Joint Replacement

[Vette79]

I have a bad rear drive shaft universal joint. Since replacement is necessary, I plan to replace all of them. I have the shop manual but it is limited in it's description of removal and replacement. I'm sure it's not that hard but thought I would ask for quick tips and tricks to this task. Recommendation of what u-joints would be nice as well for a 79 L-48...

 

[JohnZ]

If you haven't done half-shaft U-joints before and don't have the tools required (including a spare outer drive flange or a piece of 1/4" steel plate drilled to match its mounting holes to bolt to the existing outer flange as a reinforcement), that job is best left to someone who has the know-how AND the reinforcing plate. Trying it without the reinforcement usually ends up bending the flange, at which point the flange becomes junk and you get to buy a new one. This job is NOT the same as replacing driveshaft U-joints.

 

[Vette79]

Thanks John. Good to know. I'll do just the drive shaft u-joints. It is pretty straight forward right?

 

[JohnZ]

Thanks John. Good to know. I'll do just the drive shaft u-joints. It is pretty straight forward right?

Yup - the procedure is in the Shop Manual.

 

[Evolution1980]

Yup - the procedure is in the Shop Manual.

I saw that one coming! :L

 

[Vette79]

I would of thought something was wrong with John if he never referred me or anyone else to the shop manual at some point during a thread...LOL. The shop manual is a wonderful source of information. I am in it a lot! Unfortunately, it is limited on certain procedures and items. In this case, there are only two steps for removal and a ton of steps for repair and installation.
I have the retaining straps off on the front and rear drive shaft u-joints but can't seem to seperate the u-joints from the flange. While the drive shaft is out, I would like to replace the transmission output shaft seal. I did not see anything in the shop manual for this. Is it just a matter of pulling it out and putting the new one in? Is there any type of sealant used?

 

[Evolution1980]

While the drive shaft is out, I would like to replace the transmission output shaft seal. I did not see anything in the shop manual for this. Is it just a matter of pulling it out and putting the new one in? Is there any type of sealant used?

I had mine replaced last year when I had my 700-R4 rebuilt ad
I didn't do it, but I recall my mechanic showing it to me and I think it's a snap in ring that's flanged, so it wouldn't need any sealant. A service manual specifically for the trans would show you those things. He had one for mine and it was only about 20 pages I think. It showed everything...tear down / assembly, diagrams, flow paths, line pressures, etc etc etc...

 

[GTR1999]

This may help you. I use only the solid spicer joints and you have to be sure there is no bend in the flanges or they will not fit.

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105

 

[Phill]

i replaced mine last year on my 79 and it wasnt to hard. dont forget to drain the fluid in the trans before replacing the tailshaft seal.

 

[Vette79]

i replaced mine last year on my 79 and it wasnt to hard. dont forget to drain the fluid in the trans before replacing the tailshaft seal.

Why? Is this required?

 

[petes74ttop]

Only because some fluid will leak out and make a mess. PG.

 

[Vette79]

Seperate the rear drive shaft u-joint from the differential yoke first? Should the front of the drive shaft comes out with the u-joint and yoke or can I leave the yoke in?

 

[Phill]

i left the yoke in place while removing the driveshaft. i dont know if theres enough space to pull it out with it on. one thing i do know its tight up in there.

 

[Vette79]

Well, the u-joints have arrived. Waiting on the transmission output shaft seal. I will attempt to remove the drive shaft on Monday. Thanks for all the help and hopefully my next report will be success...LOL.

 

[Yoda]

I think it's been referenced too above in a round about way, and I probably don't need to even mention this, But... DON'T use the old ballpeen hammer and socket to drive out the old u-joints from the half shaft and the propeller shaft

If you don't have a good shop vise, take it to a machine shop or parts house and have them press out the old joints and press in the new ones ... It "could" be well worth the few bucks to have it done..

Bud

 

[Vette79]

Thanks Bud. My thoughts as well. I'm just going to go have them replaced once I remove the drive shaft.

 

[Vette79]

I think it's been referenced too above in a round about way, and I probably don't need to even mention this, But... DON'T use the old ballpeen hammer and socket to drive out the old u-joints from the half shaft and the propeller shaft

If you don't have a good shop vise, take it to a machine shop or parts house and have them press out the old joints and press in the new ones ... It "could" be well worth the few bucks to have it done..

Bud

So Bud, this is not the right way to do it? http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/U_joint/repair.htm
I could always use a vice and a smaller and larger socket to remove the u-joints and install the new.

 

[Vette79]

In case anyone is interested, drive shaft is out and the old u-joints have been removed. They were spicer u-joints. Was that a stock u-joint? I hope to get the new ones installed today and then the drive shaft back in along with the rear transmission shaft output seal.