update on motor rebuild......soon!!!

[firstgear]

Well, stopped by Ricks Speedway Performance to check on the motor yesterday...took some pictures....it is coming along....for those that have not been following this, taking an early 70's 350 cu in that came out of a Camaro that was in the '60 when I got it and upgrading it to a 383 stroker.

Here is the stroker crank with flywheel and balancer on the balancing machine....note the drill dimples on the far left lobe....it was almost done!

Balancer spinning the crank!!!!

Block already honed and decked getting a good HOT degreasing and cleaning prior to painting....the block and heads will be painted BLACK

New pistons, cam shaft, oil pump and all the goodies......also getting a new Edelbrock aluminum water pump, using the original rods (cleaned up and made good as new) since this isn't going to be a drag motor, just a lay down the rubber from time to time motor.....

I wanted to go with Corvette script valve covers, but trying to find some that are decent and not an arm and a leg is tough (I know they don't have a breather cap in them, but this isn't going to be a drag motor, just a kcik in the butt from time to time)....I can find reproduced ones for $65 each, without any clean up on them, I can find from Paragon chrome plated ones but they are $200 each and according to the representative on the phone they were real nice on the sides but a little on the rough side on the top. Does anyone have any ideas of what can be done to the script valve covers to make them look really sharp? Chrome them? Is there a way to polish them? Someone told me to powder coat them (I could get that done for free where I work).......I have an aluminum Edelbrock manifold that will have a Holly 650 (I think it was 650 or it might have been a 600) double pumper on it....also brand new.

Need some good suggestions on what to do with the valve covers....ideas???? Your help is always appreciated!

Herb

ps, here is a picture of the motor as I dropped it off at the shop....

 

[paul67]

These valve covers were polished by a local Harley shop.

 

[firstgear]

Paul, If I can ask what did it cost to have them polished like that? you can email me at htmiata99@aol.com if you don't want to post it here.....thanks!!

 

[tigernut]

paul79,

Those polished up real nice. Look great!

firstgear,

I also recently built a 383 and went with billet specialties valve covers (bought from summit racing). They are plain ball milled.

I liked these alot (flag theme fits the car) but didn't spend the extra money:

 

[paul67]

I'm not shy . The polish job was about $200.00US for both.

 

[firstgear]

paul79,

Those polished up real nice. Look great!

firstgear,

I also recently built a 383 and went with billet specialties valve covers (bought from summit racing). They are plain ball milled.

I liked these alot (flag theme fits the car) but didn't spend the extra money:

looked in the latest Summit catalog and didnt find this style...I am looking at a set on EBay....seems to be a good price, right now at $25 + $15 shipping.....what do you think?

 

[tigernut]

That ebay price seems awful cheap. What brand is it and are they chrome metal or polished aluminum?

The summit catalog doesn't show alot of the stuff they carry.

Here is a direct link on their website to the crossed flag valve covers:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=billet+specialties+valve+cover&N=302162&part=BSP%2D95227&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

They also have a crossed flag breather, which I'm using on my valve covers.

Doug

 

[tigernut]

Here is a link to the valve covers I am using (much cheaper than the billet specialties ones):

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&autofilter=1&Ntt=summit+aluminum+valve+cover&N=0&part=SUM%2DG3303&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

Doug

 

[IH2LOSE]

These are the ones I am using .Billet specialties I think I paid 175 for the pair.they are real high quaility ,They were not in there online catalouge I had to ask them for them

Best of luck with your motor build,I do have to say your a real brave man,I have been in a shop when they were balancing a crank and I stayed far far away from the whole set up. I was afraid is some flew off of it what would happen. The engine guys act like its safe.

 

[kridgley]

firstgear, i am thinking about doing the same thing to my old 350, but im looking at finances and seeing if its cheaper to this or just get the crate. Since you actually have started and moving along, how much (estimated) is it costing you, just ballpark here. I still need to find a reliable machineshop and parts. What were all the parts you ordered for this build?I'd love to hear how it turns out, best of luck.

 

[tigernut]

firstgear, i am thinking about doing the same thing to my old 350, but im looking at finances and seeing if its cheaper to this or just get the crate. Since you actually have started and moving along, how much (estimated) is it costing you, just ballpark here. I still need to find a reliable machineshop and parts. What were all the parts you ordered for this build?I'd love to hear how it turns out, best of luck.

Kridgley,
It generally costs as much to build one as it does to buy a crate motor and you would also get some kind of warranty with a crate motor, something you wouldn't get with a home built one.

Here you can see a 383 with 425hp and 460ft lbs of torque for $4800:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/156334/ZZ383-425-425-HP-383-Small-Block-Crate-Engine-with-Aluminum-Heads.htm

Having said that, I decided to build my own as I'm very comfortable with engine assembly and I also love to do it. Unless you are experienced with building motors, you can end up putting alot of money into something and have it literally destroyed by incorrect assembly (money down the drain).

Another reason I decided to build my own was I could spend roughly the same as a crate motor, but hand pick my own components and get more hp and torque: about 470hp and 510ft lbs of torque.

There are alot of dyno test combinations available on the internet. You can see some on the AFR Head site here:
http://www.airflowresearch.com/dyno/chevy_dyno.htm

Here is a very limited breakdown of parts I bought earlier this year that "roughly" brings you close what you would get in a crate motor.

Notice the total is $4534 and you could probably add an extra couple hundred for misc. items to that total to match what you would get by buying a crate motor.

Also don't forget to take into account the cost to have all the machine work and assembly done, if you won't be doing the work yourself.

Brand new block (Block is already machined for a 383 assembly) - $630
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/244/products/132/SB-Chevrolet-350-Cast-Iron-2-Piece-Rear-Seal-Production-Cylinder-Block-.htm
Balanced Rotating Assembly with new externally balanced flywheel - $1325
assembly comes with gasket kit, oil pump, etc.
Better head gaskets - $74
Oil filter adapter - $30
Pushrods - $85
Cam - $120
Lifters - $90
CNC Aluminum Heads - $1400
ARP Head Bolts - $50
Roller Rockers - $160
Manifold - $130
Water Pump - $65
Fuel Pump - $50
Oil Pan - $25
Roller chain and timing cover - $125
New 400 balancer - $75
ARP Bolts (Flywheel, Engine Kit, etc) $100

Doug

 

[firstgear]

firstgear, i am thinking about doing the same thing to my old 350, but im looking at finances and seeing if its cheaper to this or just get the crate. Since you actually have started and moving along, how much (estimated) is it costing you, just ballpark here. I still need to find a reliable machineshop and parts. What were all the parts you ordered for this build?I'd love to hear how it turns out, best of luck.

First, I haven't got the bill......but with tax and all, I believe that I am just south of $4000. That also includes a new HEI to replace the POS that I had, new water pump, new Holly Double pumper carb....I felt that I wanted to save the difference in the crate and the rebuild. Also, I had asked a few times on here if I was sure that a crate would "drop in" to what I pulled out, I didn't want to get into having to make things to fit a crate if it wasn't going to go right back in. Someone on one of the forums reccommended just rebuilding what I had (that hadn't been my first thought) since if it came out it could go right back in with the bell housing, transmission, motor mounts, etc.

That coupled with save about $800-$1000 was what made me sway over to getting the motor redone. No, it doesn't have a warranty, but it does have a very reputable motor builders name on it. He does a lot of race (whether for drag or for stock cars) motors in the area and has been doing for more than 20 years. So in that regard I felt ok going with him. It is not the fastest way to get a motor, I think I was in his line for more than 12 weeks, but then I wasn't in a hurry and knew I wasn't and that his timing would work for me.

So that is how I got where I am.......time will tell if it was a good thing to do or not.....

 

[firstgear]

Kridgley,
It generally costs as much to build one as it does to buy a crate motor and you would also get some kind of warranty with a crate motor, something you wouldn't get with a home built one.

Here you can see a 383 with 425hp and 460ft lbs of torque for $4800:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/156334/ZZ383-425-425-HP-383-Small-Block-Crate-Engine-with-Aluminum-Heads.htm

Having said that, I decided to build my own as I'm very comfortable with engine assembly and I also love to do it. Unless you are experienced with building motors, you can end up putting alot of money into something and have it literally destroyed by incorrect assembly (money down the drain).

Another reason I decided to build my own was I could spend roughly the same as a crate motor, but hand pick my own components and get more hp and torque: about 470hp and 510ft lbs of torque.

There are alot of dyno test combinations available on the internet. You can see some on the AFR Head site here:
http://www.airflowresearch.com/dyno/chevy_dyno.htm

Here is a very limited breakdown of parts I bought earlier this year that "roughly" brings you close what you would get in a crate motor.

Notice the total is $4534 and you could probably add an extra couple hundred for misc. items to that total to match what you would get by buying a crate motor.

Also don't forget to take into account the cost to have all the machine work and assembly done, if you won't be doing the work yourself.

Brand new block (Block is already machined for a 383 assembly) - $630
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/244/products/132/SB-Chevrolet-350-Cast-Iron-2-Piece-Rear-Seal-Production-Cylinder-Block-.htm
Balanced Rotating Assembly with new externally balanced flywheel - $1325
assembly comes with gasket kit, oil pump, etc.
Better head gaskets - $74
Oil filter adapter - $30
Pushrods - $85
Cam - $120
Lifters - $90
CNC Aluminum Heads - $1400
ARP Head Bolts - $50
Roller Rockers - $160
Manifold - $130
Water Pump - $65
Fuel Pump - $50
Oil Pan - $25
Roller chain and timing cover - $125
New 400 balancer - $75
ARP Bolts (Flywheel, Engine Kit, etc) $100

Doug

There are a few items that Doug has that I don't have, such as the CNC aluminum heads....I am using the stock heads but having them redone with valves, seals and springs. Had I wanted to go with aluminum heads, then yes, you could add another $1400 to the ticket. I felt that if I gave up some HP or had some extra weight, since I wasn't wanting to drag the car, then there was no need to take on the extra expense.

I wanted a motor that when I put my foot into it, she scooted.....if I was going to get a motor that scared me too death, then I would have just shot the money and gone for a 502 and been done with it.....I wanted something that would be reliable, look nice and scoot fairly well. Starting off I am not putting headers on her, so that limits what I can get out of it right off the bat. Eventually I will go to headers (I think), but time will tell.

my 2 cents