URGENT HELP PLEASE!!!!!

[BarryK]

Bernie (BWmurph) came over after work to help me with some reassembly

As we were putting on the valve covers I was tightening them down to proper torque spech with a in/lb torque wrench. It wasn't even close to tight yet and CRACK, the cover cracked across the mounting nole. It's like a semi-circle from one side to the other around that one mounting spot on the cover.
Bernie looked at it as he was taking it back off (because I was too busy cussing up a storm) and confirmed that screw wasn't even tight yet so it's not like I overtightened it by accident.

He has people at his work that do aluminum welding. Do you think a valve cover can be repaired by aluminum welding than buffed out and glass bead blasted to make it work AND look acceptable?

If not......... does any forum member have one, or a pair of proper valve covers for a '65 L76 (the aluminum ones) WITHOUT the casting flaw in them that they are willing to sell or know where I can get a set quick? I checked and there are not any on eBay that would be acceptable. The only ones I saw had broken fins.

 

[Rowdy1]

Not What You Need

I have a set but I don't think they're what you want. My extra set doesn't have the lettering on them, just the fins and the crossed flags. Sorry for your troubles, welcome to the world of wrenching. Good luck finding a set and with the carb.

 

[speedmaster4]

weld it, grind it to shape with fine sanding paper, dont bother polishing,glass bead. if even u can tell where it was fixed,send the welder back to school. it should be stronger than original. some warpage will occur but welding technique (common knowledge) should hold to minimum...originals are never perfect to start anyway.

 

[2X4's 60]

Do you think a valve cover can be repaired by aluminum welding than buffed out and glass bead blasted to make it work AND look acceptable?

Aluminum is very easy to work with and there is no reason it can't be repaired and be undetectable.

 

[BarryK]

Speed and 2x4
thanks for the info. I know nothing about welding, especially aluminum welding.
He took the valve cover last night and is going to take it into his work today and show it to their welder guys that do aluminum and see if they think they can fix it.

Neither of us can figure out why it cracked like that- it wasn't close to being tight yet, let alone too tight. :confused

 

[IH2LOSE]

Barry Sorry for your troubles here.

Can you post a picture of the crack?

What type of a torque wrench were you using the click type or the old style. the old style ones with the pointer you have to be carefull how you hold them as its easey to hold on to the pointer if you dont understand what it does. Normally when you have an 18" to 24" torque wrench in your hand you can easely go to about 60lbs of torque with all of the leverage and not even think you pushing hard on it.

I know your on a budget but I would think think you should send them to McNeish for a repair and a refinish now.

Also in thinking about it more could there have been something caught under the cover making it so it was not flush with the heads mating surface.

 

[BarryK]

Hi Larry

sorry, no pic. i didn't take a picture of it before Bernie took it with him when he left.

The torque wrench was brand new from sears. I bought two of them just for this project. A ft/lb model and this one, an in/lb model.
they are both the "Click" type, not the ones with the dial and arrow.

Bernie and I were trying to figure out how and why it may have happened and the only thing we can think of is this: We were having a bit of a hassle trying to get the valve cover bolts lined up perfectly on that cover - we kept having trouble getting a last bolt in. # would go in fine but the 4th one wouldn't line up right no matter which ones we would try to start first. We had finally just gotton that last bolt to slip in.
Based on that we were thinking that possibly this particular cover had originally been on the other head all it's life and if there was even the slightest differences between heads on the bolt hole position this cover over time (40 years) had just slightly warped or stressed itself into the alignment of the other head. If this head was off just that little much it stressed it as it was getting tightened down causeing it to crack. (did that make sense?)
Other than that we both have no idea why it happened. Bernie confirmed when he removed the bolts to take it off that the bolts were NOT tight at all, let alone too tight so he doesn't think it was a case of me accidently overtightening it.
either that or the cover had just developed weakness in that area over time and it just decided decided it had enough.

well, it happened so now I have to deal with it.
He is going to have the guys at his work look at it and he said that based on thier reaction and feelings on their ability to repair it not only functionally, but also cosmetically still make it look good he will have them do it or not do it. If they can't do it than Jerry MacNeish is my only option.

It would be nice to be able to get it repaired so it still also looks good as the price of a new pair is high! Paragon wants $250 a set for new repro covers with the casting flaw removed. Not only is that prohibitive for me right now, I'm trying to keep as many of the original parts on the car and functional as possible. I know sometimes you just can't do that, but i'm trying as hard as I can anyway.

It's always something!

 

[BarryK]

Barry, Expect the Unexpected!!!!!! Thay'll make Brand New!! junk!!

throwing my own words back in my face Junk?

gee, just kick me while I'm down. I got your number now!

 

[Bwmurph]

Barry,

I know I don't feel as bad as you do, but I feel pretty damn bad about the valve cover. I was supposed to be the guy that showed up to help to make sure s**t like that didn't happen!

I don't have any answer's for you yet on welding it, but will definitely have something for ou today. I'll keep you informed

Bernie O.

 

[motorman]

Hi Larry

sorry, no pic. i didn't take a picture of it before Bernie took it with him when he left.

The torque wrench was brand new from sears. I bought two of them just for this project. A ft/lb model and this one, an in/lb model.
they are both the "Click" type, not the ones with the dial and arrow.

Bernie and I were trying to figure out how and why it may have happened and the only thing we can think of is this: We were having a bit of a hassle trying to get the valve cover bolts lined up perfectly on that cover - we kept having trouble getting a last bolt in. # would go in fine but the 4th one wouldn't line up right no matter which ones we would try to start first. We had finally just gotton that last bolt to slip in.
Based on that we were thinking that possibly this particular cover had originally been on the other head all it's life and if there was even the slightest differences between heads on the bolt hole position this cover over time (40 years) had just slightly warped or stressed itself into the alignment of the other head. If this head was off just that little much it stressed it as it was getting tightened down causeing it to crack. (did that make sense?)
Other than that we both have no idea why it happened. Bernie confirmed when he removed the bolts to take it off that the bolts were NOT tight at all, let alone too tight so he doesn't think it was a case of me accidently overtightening it.
either that or the cover had just developed weakness in that area over time and it just decided decided it had enough.

well, it happened so now I have to deal with it.
He is going to have the guys at his work look at it and he said that based on thier reaction and feelings on their ability to repair it not only functionally, but also cosmetically still make it look good he will have them do it or not do it. If they can't do it than Jerry MacNeish is my only option.

It would be nice to be able to get it repaired so it still also looks good as the price of a new pair is high! Paragon wants $250 a set for new repro covers with the casting flaw removed. Not only is that prohibitive for me right now, I'm trying to keep as many of the original parts on the car and functional as possible. I know sometimes you just can't do that, but i'm trying as hard as I can anyway.

It's always something!

unless you have had lots of experience using torque wrenches DO NOT USE them on small bolts. just tighten down the covers using a 1/4" drive socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

 

[BarryK]

Hi Bernie
not your fault, no reason to feel bad.
H*ll, if it wasn't for your willingness to help me on the tough stuff I wouldn't even be doing this project. i'd probably still be fighting getting the exhaust manifolds OFF!

i'll wait to see what your guys say, if they think they can do it, great. If they don't have the confidence to be able to do it AND also make it look good than I'll have to send it out to Jerry MacNeish. If that's the case, I'll send both covers to him and maybe he can fix that other one where it seems to be flaking.

 

[magoo]

Hi Barry,

I'm pretty sure GM still makes those covers. I know they did not too long ago. If so you might be able to buy them for considerably less than from a vette supplier. Try gmpartsdirect.com, or if you like I have a GM connection and I'd be glad to see what I could get them for.

Mike

 

[BarryK]

unless you have had lots of experience using torque wrenches DO NOT USE them on small bolts. just tighten down the covers using a 1/4" drive socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

yeah, well typical for me that's a lesson learned the hard and expensive way......
strange though because it really wan't tight yet when it cracked. I was using the torque wrench but I was still just getting to the point of snugging it down, not even torquing it yet.

 

[BarryK]

Mike

I didn't know that. I thought Paragon had the original molds and were making them for everyone.
I'll check on GMPARTSDIRECT just in case I do have to purchase a new set
Thanks.

 

[speedmaster4]

put 100s of those darlins on...seen two or three bolts that were cussables because a previous 'mech" had crossthreaded the steel bolt into cast iron head and the cast part ended up mis-aimed ...get (4) 1/4-20x5 grade 2 bolts from local hardware,chop the heads off,screw em into the head with fingers only. slide the gasket (thick cork ones only) on these "studs" and then drop on the rocker cover-- if it doesnt almost fall on,stop and fix...remove studs one at a time and install each bolt at the same angle as the stud...use a 1/4" drive socket and 6" extension with NO handle,just fingers, to snug only, until all 4 are in ,then use a short handle like the motorman sez...snug the lowers first (i have run race motors without even using the top ones-no leak)

 

[BarryK]

thanks Speed
when I get this one back repaired (or replaced if needed ;squint: ) I'll try your method

 

[Kid_Again]

Funny, I also use 1/4" drive sockets and ensure I use a handle rather than the ratchet. Prevents me doing something stupid with aluminum heads.

 

[BarryK]

Funny, I also use 1/4" drive sockets and ensure I use a handle rather than the ratchet. Prevents me doing something stupid with aluminum heads.

well, call me stupid, but I figured that never having done this before I'd go "by the book". There was a proper torque spec listed so like everything else that had one listed I thought it best to use a torque wrench to set it properly against the spec in the book.
I never figured it was going to cause me grief BEFORE even getting even close to the listed torque amount.

 

[c5vetter]

remember GM Parts Direct is another vendor! many times you think you are getting a GREAT deal, when in fact many items you can buy one of! you have to buy multiple items - speaking from experience with them!

 

[BarryK]

remember GM Parts Direct is another vendor! many times you think you are getting a GREAT deal, when in fact many items you can buy one of! you have to buy multiple items - speaking from experience with them!

doesn't matter in this case anyway, they don't have them.

but thanks for the warning in case I ever do need to purchase anything from them.