Valve cover gasket replacement
- Thread starter Timbalero
- Start date
A
aoriii
Guest
Been there done that...
I've just finished this same procedure on my 85. Getting the valve covers off is a real PITA, but easily doable in an afternoon. I had to move my alternator and get my drivers side cover out of the engine cavity.
If memory serves me correctly, the proper torque is about 80 - 120 in/lbs, (I'll verify when I get back to the house and can look at the manual...I'll repost if I'm incorrect). Be careful...your heads are aluminum and its excessively easy to strip out the holes, and that's no fun at all (again....been there). When it was all said and done, I simply set the valve cover bolts good and firm (i.e. did not torque them). The valve covers do not have that much oil pressure on them when the engine is running so I just tightened them good and firm and let the gasket do its work (Disclaimer: It is always better to follow torque specs...do as I say, not as I do).
Make sure you clean off the mating surfaces really well to remove any leftover gasket or sealant. Also its a pretty good idea to change your oil and filter after this procedure, as you will likely get some gunk down in the oil during the process of cleaning off the mating surfaces.
Good luck.
Trey
I've just finished this same procedure on my 85. Getting the valve covers off is a real PITA, but easily doable in an afternoon. I had to move my alternator and get my drivers side cover out of the engine cavity.
If memory serves me correctly, the proper torque is about 80 - 120 in/lbs, (I'll verify when I get back to the house and can look at the manual...I'll repost if I'm incorrect). Be careful...your heads are aluminum and its excessively easy to strip out the holes, and that's no fun at all (again....been there). When it was all said and done, I simply set the valve cover bolts good and firm (i.e. did not torque them). The valve covers do not have that much oil pressure on them when the engine is running so I just tightened them good and firm and let the gasket do its work (Disclaimer: It is always better to follow torque specs...do as I say, not as I do).
Make sure you clean off the mating surfaces really well to remove any leftover gasket or sealant. Also its a pretty good idea to change your oil and filter after this procedure, as you will likely get some gunk down in the oil during the process of cleaning off the mating surfaces.
Good luck.
Trey
Aoriii, his heads are cast iron, same as yours (or stock for your car, at least). No strip worries. However, it's quite easy to break the valve cover itself by overtorquing (don't ask me how I know this...).
Timbalero, please note that Aoriii said INCH-pounds, *NOT* FOOT-pounds - this is a fact I missed first time I did mine. He's correct, and his numbers are correct. You don't need a lot of torque on these bolts and studs.
[RICHR]
Timbalero, please note that Aoriii said INCH-pounds, *NOT* FOOT-pounds - this is a fact I missed first time I did mine. He's correct, and his numbers are correct. You don't need a lot of torque on these bolts and studs.
[RICHR]
G
Gman
Guest
I installed Edelbrock valve covers on my '84 when I had it. I used the "classic" aluminum/black design and didn't like them. The underhood temps turned them ugly quickly. What type are you considering? Oh, and be sure to use quality gaskets.
Summit Racing sells a set of reusable cork/steel core gaskets. I bought them and have been quite happy. Fel-Pro P/N VS 50088 R.
BTW - this post http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...=&threadid=15277&highlight=valve+cover+gasket
details my experiences changing the gaskets for the first time on my car.
[RICHR]
BTW - this post http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...=&threadid=15277&highlight=valve+cover+gasket
details my experiences changing the gaskets for the first time on my car.
[RICHR]
G
Gman
Guest
Hey Rich, you never finished the story! Did you correct the mis-matched valve covers? Your adventure sounds similar to the one I had changing the covers in the '84. I laughed while reading your story, not that your mis-fortune was funny, it just brought back memories...:cool
What I wound up doing was talking to someone at Edelbrock and finding out that you just add oil through the breather hole (after first disconnecting the breather tube...) using a decent funnel. Works for me... I currently have the Edelbrock covers both on, with no problems to date. They're probably going away, though, as I'm getting new heads that will most likely be centerbolt.
[RICHR]
[RICHR]
- Thread starter
- #8
Timbalero
Well-known member
update
I am happy to tell you that I just completed changing the gaskets, and also replaced the covers with a set of Edelbrock Signature series using the T bolts. They look great. Thank you for all your help.
I am happy to tell you that I just completed changing the gaskets, and also replaced the covers with a set of Edelbrock Signature series using the T bolts. They look great. Thank you for all your help.
When you used the T-bolts, did you also use the, dang - forget their name - little flat tabs that spread the torque out over a bigger area of the cover? If you didn't, it's a good idea to get them because you may get small leaks right around the bolt holes otherwise. They look like flat chrome bars with a small piece sticking out of the middle right below the bolt hole.
[RICHR]
[RICHR]
- Thread starter
- #10
Timbalero
Well-known member
Valve covers
I didn't use the bars, but I will get some today and put them on. Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I wonder if I have to replace the gasket again? I only ran the car for about an hour after replacing the gaskets just to make sure I didn't have a leak. It didn't show any leaks.
I didn't use the bars, but I will get some today and put them on. Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I wonder if I have to replace the gasket again? I only ran the car for about an hour after replacing the gaskets just to make sure I didn't have a leak. It didn't show any leaks.
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