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Warm engine misses

Good reading on points. I have no idea what coil or ballast resistor you purchased, so it will be hard to help you without that info.

An article from SWduke

Default NAPA Echlin ignition points (contact set)
Over the years there has been confusion over the various contact sets sold by NAPA under the Echlin brand. There are a total of six applicable to Delco single point distributors not including the "uniset" that combines the points and condenser in a single assembly. NAPA also sells a price leader line called Mileage Plus and a couple of other sets in different brands.

You can see them all at www.napaonline.com

TDB member and NAPA jobber Tim Schuetz of Waukesha, WI also wanted to get to the bottom of it, so Tim sent me four of the six part numbers for analysis in boxes marked CS86, CS89, CS786P, and CS7860.

Armed with a three-pound spring scale, mic, caliper, multimeter, and plain screw driver to partially disassemble the breaker arm leaf springs for measurement, I offer the following measured and visual observations. A summary of the measured data follows the discussion. All have screw type terminals rather than using the breaker arm spring to secure the wires like the old Delco D106P, a design I never cared for, but the old Delco D106PS has a screw terminal.

Achieving consistent breaker arm tension readings required a little practice, and I found than listening to Bach during the measurements improved consistency.

CS86: This set is listed on the Web site as "standard" and is equivalent to the OE points installed on single point Corvette distributors before '73 when the uniset became OE. The breaker arm tension is speced at 19-23 oz., and in addition to the main leaf spring, which is non-magetic or just slightly magnetic indicating stainless steel, there is a thin parallel leaf that appears to be copper and is likely there for conductivity. It is too thin to add breaker arm tension.

CS89: This set is listed on the Web site as "high performance" and appears identical to the CS86, but main breaker arm leaf is .002" thicker, which increases breaker arm tension to equal the 28-32 oz. of the long-discontinued Delco D112P.

CS786P: This set is listed on the Web site as "vented", but the set in the box was not vented and is most likely the CS786 discussed next. Other than the perforated contact pads, the CS786P is likely identical to the CS786. Vented points have been around for decades, and the theory is that they run cooler, which extends point life, but I have no personal experience and have never seen a scientifally conducted test.

CS786: This set is listed on the Web site as "heavy duty" and has larger contact pads, which increases contact area by about 43 percent. Also, the breaker arm is a different design - different geometry - which made measuring breaker arm tension difficult, but it's basically the same as the CS86.

CS7860: This set is also listed on the Web site as "high performance", and has the same spring thickness and breaker arm spring tension as the CS89, but it has some different construction details. The other three sets' breaker arm springs are retained to the breaker arm by a 90 degree tab that fits into a slot in the breaker arm. This set has no tab. Rather, the end mounted to the breaker arm is longer allowing it to be secured to the breaker arm with the rivet that retains the rubbing block. It does not have the thin copper parallel spring, but I could find no difference in resistance with my ohmeter that measures to about 0.1 ohm. All are essentially zero to 0.1 ohm resolution. The insulator is red rather than white on all the others, and the adjustment spring has blue Loctite.

This set also has another interesting feature. Packaged with the capsule of grease is a small felt pad with a slot. The slot fits over the rubbing block, and the instructions say to grease both the rubbing block and felt pad. This should help retain grease and should be included with the other sets in my opinion. Despite this extra feature and what appears to be somewhat more robust construction, this is the least expensive set of the six!

CS7860C: This set is listed on the Web site as "racing only", and I suspect it has higher than 32 oz. breaker arm tension. Since the 32 oz. sets will go to at least 7200 revs in a snug distributor, this set should not be necessary for any road-going Corvette with something close to an OE engine configuration.

Part.........Spring.....Spring.......... .Contact.. ...Web site..............Online
number.....tension,...thickness,......di ameter.... comment.............price
...............oz..........in........... ......in.

CS86........24..........0.018/.006.....0.152".......standard.......... ....$16.49
CS89........32..........0.020/.006.....0.152".......high performance...$21.49
CS786......24...........0.018/.006.....0.185".......heavy duty..........$15.69
CS786P....---...........----/-----......------......vented................$16.49
CS7860.....32..........0.020/---.......0.152........high performance...$14.99
CS7860C...---.........-----/---........-----........racing only...........$16.49

My basic usage recommendations are as follows:

1. Engines with redlines up to 5500 and the 1.8 ohm ballast - CS86.

2. Engines with redlines up to 5500 and the 0.3 ohm ballast - CS786. The additional contact area might reduce the tendency to burn up points, which is not uncommon on systems with the 0.3 ohm ballast, especially in cold weather. Ballast resistance decreases with decreasing operating temperature and vice versa.

3. Engines with redlines over 5500 - CS7860. This set is less expensive than the CS89 and has some better features.

Proper distributor operation is necessary for peak engine performance - everything from idle quality to making it to the redline with no spark scatter or ignition breakup. It's possible that if you have a freshly blueprinted distributor, a standard tension set will make it to 6500 in a mechanical lifter engine, but in my experience, maximum high rev performance in mechanical lifter engines requires a 32 oz. set. As with many tuning parameters, what works in your distributor for you boils down to the condition of your distributor, your driving habits, and maybe some experimentation. My bet is that a majority of single point distributors out there are in need of a blueprint overhall, which has been discussed on the TDB many times. If the ignition system doesn't deliver a properly timed spark of sufficient energy for all engine operating conditions, the engine will never achieve peak performance and fuel economy. It's that simple!

Nominal point life is about 30K miles, but can vary widely depending on ignition system configuration and condition. Since most of our cars have low annual mileage accumulation, it's a good idea to check that there is still some lubrication for the rubbing block at least every couple of years, and while you're at it, check point resistance and dwell angle. Dwell angle changes will effect initial timing, so checking initial timing is also a good idea after you have you checked and, if necessary, adjusted the points. Throw in the idle speed/mixture adjustment procedure and you've done a "minor tuneup" in less time than a wash job.
 
To RestoCreations and all,

I'll have to read your last post tonight, but I wanted to get back to you as soon as my shop closed with answers to your question about the Holley Part Number. Since I'm not sure where to find it, I'll give numbers and locations that I can see: 6210-3 and 2623 are both on the opening of the carb that holds the choke plate, then on the passenger side of the carb is the number 6R-4713B. Those are the only numbers that I could find on the carb's body.

The "Points with condenser" is from the local Autozone, and it is a Duralast Part Number DR1080MV.

That's it until I can read the "TunedByLars" sheets, and the last post from "RestoCreations". It looks like a late night for me!!

As usual, thanks.....

BoDill
 
Duke is spot on with his analysis, but we're dealing with a car that's barely driveable, not a high rev WOT miss.

My post above with Dukes info is to reference good replacement points that are the correct spec for his given ballast resistor. Hopefully it will help him out. I guarantee there is something simple going on due to a mismatched set of parts, faulty parts, bad float, etc.
No rush in getting back to us, i am just posting useful info as I think of it.
 
To All;

1. I just put in new points and plugs from NAPA. They did not have the CS86 "Standard" in stock, so I got the CS786 "Heavy Duty" (see post of 07-21, 3:07 PM). The guy behind the counter felt that they would be OK, rather than wait a day or so to have the CS86's delivered.

2. In a previous post I said that the timing was set at 4 DBTDC because any more than that caused the engine to start to "Die". Being very uncomfortable with that idea, I checked the timing with the new points and set it at about 10 DBTDC (I say "about" because the timing light showed it just above 8 and it was idling well, and the timing mark was steady, so I left it). I have no idea how to explain the difference based solely on changing the points from a self-contained unit from Autozone to separate points and condenser from NAPA, but that's what happened.

3. Again, the car idles just fine, and sounds and feels healthy on acceleration when sitting in the garage, but rolling down the road at virtually any speed it still has a "miss" problem. I don't dare drive it more than "around the block" because I don't want to break down far away from home.

Now, in taking off from a light, or (I repeat) doing any kind of accelerating, it acts like it really wants to go, but as soon as I reach cruising speed, which is around 30 to 50 MPH close to home, it starts to miss. Since I have been away from "Gearheading" for several years, it's easy to baffle me, but I think that I have any ignition issues under control, with the exception of replacing all the ignition wires.

Please let me know if you think that this type of problem might be related to ignition wires, or if you think I should be looking at a carburator problem.

Thanks again,

BoDill
 
Back on post #9 I suggested plug wires and still believe that is your problem
 
To all,

It is after 10:00 PM in Cortland, New York (my home) and absolutely dark, so I did the "lights out" look at the engine running. After warming up, revving, etc. I could see NO SPARKS.

To c5vetter,

I will likely try new wires next, unless there is something else to try first. Is there a way to "inspect" the wires to see if one or more might fail when on the road? I'de like to know this before I buy new wires, and it would be handy for future reference as well.

Again, to All,

There are several articles on the internet regarding "engine misses at driving speeds" (and related phrasing of the problem) and after reading many, many of them, I haven't found a clear solution yet. The bulk of the reports are from people in the same boat that I am in; they have already replaced points, plugs, coil, etc. and the problem won't go away. Tomorrow, back to daylight, I plan to scrutinize the rotor cap and distributor cap looking for leaks, scratches, or anything else (even though I've had them both on and off a dozen times and looked them over, I'm going to do it again VERY carefully).

Thanks all, I'll let you know what happens next,

BoDill
 
To Vettehead Mikey,

When setting the timing I revved the engine with no misses, but that probably doesn't answer your question. Can suggest a way to check these things while driving down the road? as that is when the problem arises.

To All,

Since a set of what appears to be good wires at NAPA is around $30, I'll likely order a set on the way to breakfast, and I'll be checking these posts on-and-off all day, so if you have any more ideas......

Thanks again,
BoDill
 
To Vettehead Mikey,

Seriously?? I didn't know that you could safely do that. Sadly, I live on a very busy road and am leery of stalling or breaking down even though I would be close to home.

If there are any pitfalls do doing this, please warn about them before I do this.

Thanks, and I'm sorry that I don't have more confidence about this short trip to test the vacuum advance.

BoDill
 
To Vettehead Mikey,

Seriously?? I didn't know that you could safely do that. Sadly, I live on a very busy road and am leery of stalling or breaking down even though I would be close to home.

If there are any pitfalls do doing this, please warn about them before I do this.

Thanks, and I'm sorry that I don't have more confidence about this short trip to test the vacuum advance.

BoDill


You can test your spark plug wires with an OHM meter. Just look up how to test spark plug wires with OHM meter on google....plenty of videos and articles. I would not have purchased the heavy duty points, but they should be ok, assuming you paired them accordingly with your ballast. You still never mentioned which ballast you purchased or which coil.
 
To RestoCreations,

The coil is a Duralast C819, the resistor is DR794, both from Autozone. Since the car hasn't been tuned up since around 2000, and the new plug wires aren't expensive, I wouldn't mind upgrading them anyway.

To All,

I just took a test drive on the advice of Vettehead Mikey, and a couple of things struck me: 1) when I turned the key to start the car, it jumped to life IMMEDIATELY!!!! I mean it didn't even turn all the way over and it started!! We had a heavy rain today, and I don't know if that has any significant effect, but it has NEVER jumped to life like that in the 14 years that I have had it. 2) With the vacuum line disconnected and plugged, I didn't notice much, if any, difference in performance. Since I took it out of town so that I could try some acceleration, etc. it seemed to me that it performed well while accelerating, but the miss returned when I levelled off (around 40 to 50 MPH) and persisted when I slowed down. Since the miss is not catastrophic in the first place, it may not be noticeable during acceleration, but I didn't feel it.

The plug wires I ordered are P/N BEL 700103 from NAPA, if that means anything, and I'll probably install them tomorrow.

By the way, I have been purchasing my gasoline from the same place for over a decade, so I don't think that fuel is the problem.

BoDill
 
To All,

I probably won't get much time with the car today, but I thought I'd give an update so far.....

Today I added an 8oz bottle of K100 to the tank which was about half full, stirred it around and let it sit for half an hour, then drove it around a little. It was no help, and it actually felt like it was missing more than it was yesterday.

Next will be new plug wires unless I hear different from you.

BoDill
 
Today I added an 8oz bottle of K100 to the tank which was about half full,

Never heard of it but a search indicates that it's just another bogus snake oil product that cannot do half what it claims, even if there was a problem with the gas or the engine in the first place. Please don't waste your money.

You mention always using the same gas station. Just wondering if all the problems you've been having are on the same tank of gas, or several tank fulls.
 
To Vettehead Mikey,

Same tank of gas!

That is why I considered a product like "HEET", but the guy at NAPA told me this morning that K100 is better than HEET. There is a video on line that shows Seafoam has little effect on "water in the gas", but both HEET and rubbing alcohol had a little bit of beneficial effect, and were about equal. I didn't want to start pouring rubbing alcohol into my gas tank, so I asked at the NAPA store for their best product, and they recommended K100. Actually, I didn't expect an additive like HEET or K100 to solve the problem, but I though I should try something just "in case". It certainly would not be the first time that a simple solution surprised me!

I have been fuelling both of my vehicles ('65 vette and 2004 Jeep) at the gas station across the street for over 10 years with no problems (YET!).

Since the K100 had no noticeable effect, I will likely try out my new wires next.

As I said in a recent post, when I turn the key, the car JUMPS to life. This has never been the case before.

Thank you for your patience and support, and for continuing to pay attention after all this time!!!

BoDill
 
There is no additive on this planet that will fix bad gas. Adding alcohol to E10 (probably what you're using) is a waste. The ethanol already in the tank would have already sopped up the water (if any). Seafoam is also not suitable for this purpose, it's only 25% alcohol mixed with 25% naptha and 50% light machine oil.

At this point, I'd think about draining the tank and starting all over with fresh gas that you know is good.
 
To Vettehead Mikey and all,

Since it is evening here, and I've already worked all day, I'm not going out to the garage tonight, so I have some time to get an opinion or two from you.

My first question regards replacing the fuel; as there is about 8 to 9 gallons (a shade less than half-a-tank), and I am big on conservation, would there be a good reason to NOT tip the car to one side (I have a good floor jack) and suck some of the gas off of the low portion of the tank? I suggest this because I would hope that water would still go to the lowest point, and thereby get sucked out if the car was properly tilted and the siphon hose was put into the lowest part of the tank. I just don't like the idea of wasting 8 gallons of gas if it can be prevented (it has nothing to do with money).

Along with this inquiry, I must say that I am not at all convinced that fuel is the problem. I just tried the K100 in an effort to eliminate "water in the fuel" as a cause of misses (and then Vettehead tells me that the stuff doesn't work!!). Since nothing much changed with the K100, I assume that either it didn't work or that was not the problem.

I think it may also be important that the car seems to idle and run fine in the garage, but starts to miss badly as soon as it gets warmed up out on the road. I have no explanation for that yet.

Next, I have read and viewed videos regarding checking plug wires, and am not real confident that I would find a faulty wire even if I have one. Since the wires are old and I have new ones on hand, I would probably replace the old ones anyway.

I will certainly check this forum tomorrow, and I really do appreciate your help!!

BoDill
 
Re: 1967 Corvette Coupe Restomod Build Thread

Just use the fuel in something else...lawn mower if it is below 93 octane, your daily driver, etc. I've had to drain tanks several times for other reasons and I always just put it into my 2014 GMC truck. At least by draining the gas you will eliminate that as a possible issue. I still think your problems are elsewhere though.
 

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